Do I need to thin my Tamiya X-22 clear coat?

Ddawg

New Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2024
Messages
13
Sorry if this is a rookie question, but I just finished painting my 1:48 Tamiya Corsair (first scale build). From what I’ve gathered, I should put on a clear coat prior to weathering and decals. I have Tamiya X-22. Do I need to thin it or just spray as is from the bottle? After everything is done I plan on finishing with AK Ultra-matte varnish. Do I need to thin that also? I have Vallejo Airbrush thinner.
 
Sorry if this is a rookie question, but I just finished painting my 1:48 Tamiya Corsair (first scale build). From what I’ve gathered, I should put on a clear coat prior to weathering and decals. I have Tamiya X-22. Do I need to thin it or just spray as is from the bottle? After everything is done I plan on finishing with AK Ultra-matte varnish. Do I need to thin that also? I have Vallejo Airbrush thinner.
I generally thin tamiya 50/50. Others may have better suggestions as I mainly use vallejo paints. Pantherman
 
Treat any clearcoat as paint. They still need to be thinned regardless it’s enamel or acrylic. Gloss clear prior to decal applications. Flat coat to seal the decals in and weathering.
 
When I tried that it pulled even more of the paint off the model
The base plastic must be clean before the primer is applied. Then paint layers on this should adhere without issues. Do you have any photos of what is happening so the forum can try to help work out what's going wrong? Pantherman
 
I generally do the same but I find that using artists oils for streaking works best over a flat coat allowing superior blending and feathering.

IMG_7933.jpegIMG_3479.jpegIMG_1051.jpegI generally finish the paint and cammo, gloss coat for decals and weathering, matt coat to seal it all off. Job done. Pantherman
 
The base plastic must be clean before the primer is applied. Then paint layers on this should adhere without issues. Do you have any photos of what is happening so the forum can try to help work out what's going wrong? Pantherman
Pantherman, i went over each section with alcohol and paper towels to make sure everything was pff it. Then I wiped iit
Down with paper towels to make sure it was dry
 
Sorry if this is a rookie question, but I just finished painting my 1:48 Tamiya Corsair (first scale build). From what I’ve gathered, I should put on a clear coat prior to weathering and decals. I have Tamiya X-22. Do I need to thin it or just spray as is from the bottle? After everything is done I plan on finishing with AK Ultra-matte varnish. Do I need to thin that also? I have Vallejo Airbrush thinner.
I went over the thread a couple of times to make sure I didn't miss this, but what primer did you use? Or did you prime the parts at all? I apologize if I've missed this but I don't think I did.
 
I went over the thread a couple of times to make sure I didn't miss this, but what primer did you use? Or did you prime the parts at all? I apologize if I've missed this but I don't think I did.
Yes I did prime, I used Vallejo Surface Primer. Grey. I painted with the Vallejo Air USN WWII colors. Also, since I plan on clear coating with with the Tamiya X-22, I ordered some Tamiya thinner. I have Vallejo thinner, but several things I’ve read/watched recommended matching the brand of thinner to the brand of paint. I have no idea if it really matters, but why take chances for only a few dollars.
 
Last edited:
Vallejo may have some effect to why the paint pulled off after hand brushing Tamiya’s clearcoat. Had you airbrushed it, I don’t think it would been an issue.

Personally, Vallejo is garbage. I don’t like them. They have sort of a rubbery feel when dry. Heck, even their liquid mask is pure garbage.
 
Vallejo may have some effect to why the paint pulled off after hand brushing Tamiya’s clearcoat. Had you airbrushed it, I don’t think it would been an issue.

Personally, Vallejo is garbage. I don’t like them. They have sort of a rubbery feel when dry. Heck, even their liquid mask is pure garbage.
Well I have been using vallejo for a few years now and not had any issues with them. I like the colour range and especially the way the paint lays when hand brushing.

I admit that when spraying you sort of need to practice a bit until you get the right combination of pressure, thinner and paint, but again, never had an issue.

Just my opinion. It's really up to what you feel comfortable using. I do use other like tamiya and in time I may prefer to mainly use them but for now, if it ain't broken, no need to fix it. Pantherman
 
I agree with BlackSheep that the Vallejo primer may be the culprit, though I won't go so far as to agree with "Vallejo is garbage". But I have seen enough posts from people who have had similar issues with the products. But I've seen comments like Pantherman's, too-folks who use it without problems. So to me, that inconsistency is enough to keep me from switching to their primer. I get consistent results with Tamiya's and can recommend it. And for those who say it's too expensive, I can agree that it's more expensive than some, but I also find that it covers well and goes a long way. So I find the investment worth it.

I have used rattlecan automotive primers, too, Rustoleum, and Walmart's house brand. They were a little rougher when they cured, but nothing a little buffing couldn't knock down. But when they changed the design of the nozzles a few years back, I found that they clogged too readily, and nothing I tried, not modifying the nozzle by drilling it out, nor swabbing out the can's neck with lacquer thinner, could fix it. The clog is in the top of the can. They've apparently changed the design yet again, to a sort of trigger contraption, but I haven't tried it yet. Talking to contractors who also use Rustoleum rattlecans, they say the same thing happens-the new ones clog up, too. It illustrates the old saying, you get what you pay for.
 
And I'll add regarding proprietary thinners: there is a bit of a learning curve, depending on the product or brand, and the type of paint. For example, I learned to use Tamiya's thinner for their acrylic paints, for my best results. But I can use generic lacquer thinner to thin them for airbrushing, with the same good results. With enamels, I found that any brand of mineral spirits worked just fine for thinning them. Same for the lacquers I have-the various brands of lacquer thinner work the same for thinning them. And for the water-based acrylics I use-Andrea, Vallejo Model Color, Lifecolor, and the craft store brands Americana, Folk Art, and Apple Barrel, I use plain ol' tap water (with a wet palette). So, it came down to experience over time and then deciding what worked well for me.
 
You really need to stop badmouthing Rustoleum just because you don't know what you're doing , Baron . ;)
I told you what to do , and 30 friggin years of me and my crew running those cans with no issues .
 
You really need to stop badmouthing Rustoleum just because you don't know what you're doing , Baron . ;)
I told you what to do , and 30 friggin years of me and my crew running those cans with no issues
The new nozzles haven't been around for 30 years, more like 10. Before that, they used the same design as every other rattle can. And I'm not the only one. I found comments online from people with the same experience, and talked in person about it.
Like I said, they've changed the design again, and I'm curious to try it, to see how it works.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top