Best acrylic brand for hand brush painting?

Swanningabout

"Anything worth doing is worth doing badly."
Joined
Sep 20, 2012
Messages
91
What is the best acrylic brand of paint for hand brushing? I have used Tamiya and Acryl myself. What about Vallejo?
 
Hands down, Vallejo is the best hand brushing paint.

Darn good airbrush paint as well, the Model Color of course has to be thinned, but their Model Air is good to go right out of the bottle.
 
I like both vallejo and revell aqua colours.. Check this review out: http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.org/Revell_Aqua_Color_Paint_Review_for_brushing__about21839.html

i use vallejo for small areas and sometimes big areas, but i prefer aqua colours for bigger areas. This is because vallejo is more controllable. Also, the aqua colour range is much smaller, so finding the right colour is sometimes impossible... Here's a few tips if you need them...


Prime. This will provide an even surface for the paint. And thin down your paint about a 1:1 ratio with distilled water, depending on the paint and the use. Experiment with scrap pieces, until you get a good result, and keep doing what you did and you'll be fine. Make sure you shake for vallejo and stir for revell aqua colours. Use a good quality (largeflat for large areas, small round for small areas) brush. I find kolinsky sable the best although it is expensive for round, and too unreasonable for large brushes. Use many thin layers (at least 3-4) , unless you're doing detail parts, them thin down a little bit and use 1 or 2 coats. that's really all you need to know, good luck.
Anyway, these paints will be a huge difference compared to tamiya. Which is terrible for hand brushing.

this video will explain all you need to know as well.

How to hand paint Gunpla/Mecha
 
This was very helpful. Think i am going to try and thin down my paint some more and try it out. I have only been thinning 1:1 with my Vallejo paints. I like the way it turned out with more more coats and less dense pigment.

Thanks agin,
 
Andrea is pretty good, too. Ahmed's sequence applies, too, if you use Andrea colors. In fact, you can use cheap craft store acrylics, too, with preparation as he describes. Those do tend to have relatively coarsely ground pigments, though, which must be addressed.
 
Since switching over to Lifecolor&Vallejo I'all never go back to enamels :'( :'( :'( this was my first attempt with Lifecolor&Vallejo
DSC01253.jpg
 
THanks all, for the responses. THe video is especially useful. I think maybe the mistake I was making with Tamiya is I would thin it no more than 30%, and I used Testor's universal acrylic thinner. The results have been a lot better than when I wasn't thinning the paint at all, but I sometimes pulled back on the thinning because the paint looked to me more like a wash -- the paint was flowing into cracks were it would bunch up and be darker than in other areas. But the video seems to suggest that very thin paint like that is what you want: you just need to brush out the areas where the paint gathers, wait for it all to dry, and do some more coats.
 
Swanningabout said:
THanks all, for the responses. THe video is especially useful. I think maybe the mistake I was making with Tamiya is I would thin it no more than 30%, and I used Testor's universal acrylic thinner. The results have been a lot better than when I wasn't thinning the paint at all, but I sometimes pulled back on the thinning because the paint looked to me more like a wash -- the paint was flowing into cracks were it would bunch up and be darker than in other areas. But the video seems to suggest that very thin paint like that is what you want: you just need to brush out the areas where the paint gathers, wait for it all to dry, and do some more coats.

yeah, but what the guy didn't do in the video is wipe of the excess. this stops it pooling in the crevices.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top