Kinda like your fave mix tape back in the day...multiple builds going on at once
Careful my friend. This habit is like fire, a great tool, but still dangerousI get it now, how some of you guys can have multiple builds going on at once.
That's some good looking rust!The beetle will be my first real attempt at using chipping fluid.
I got a bunch of rust colors down on the body. I rusted everywhere before I spray on the chipping fluid. These vehicles will be heavily rusted, and maybe burnt......they have sat for years after whatever caused the apocalypse in the diorama. Still deciding the final look.
The color will be the blue you can see on the interior.
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because a Tamiya f18 would have been too easy for a man of your talent!I'm working on the terrible Testors 1/48 F-18, don't ask me why.View attachment 183851View attachment 183852
+ 100because a Tamiya f18 would have been too easy for a man of your talent!
Got some bling on that cowling! I've been using those pens a lot lately and they're great. Make tires a lot easier!...finally have the landing gear fitting and looking passable... Still a few parts to add. Touched up the wing and fuselage areas that were damaged while I worked and reworked the gear. That area still needs a coat of gloss before decals and weathering.
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You can see the wells painted black and white... Some of the Skuas that survived the North Sea action kept the recognition paint (one wing black, one wing white) in the wells after having a different camo scheme applied, in this case for the Med.
And the props painted... Dunno if true for my particular plane, but the Skua mechanics often liked to buff the originally aluminium doped spinner to a high shine.
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Tried the AK paint pen for the yellow (tips and 500 lb bomb in the background): I like it!
The back of the blades are black
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What primer did you use?Zoom in and you can see the primer leaked unere the mask.
Mr. Surfacer 1000 (gray), I was trying to do a bit of build-up, the seam between styrene and whatever plastic the vacuform was became an issue.What primer did you use?
Which Yak kit is that? I have the ICM 1/32. Did you try rubbing alcohol? I think you're being tough on yourself.I'm fighting problems/gremilns on three kits at once.
The Yak-3...I bought a vaccuform canopy, but them messed it up too. Zoom in and you can see the primer leaked under the mask. Unlike color coats, it is not coming off with saliva on a toothpick.
The Growler...I am being a bit too timid in my post-shading. At least it is not "messed up", trying to stay positive.
The Phantom-Tbird...touching up the markings with thin lacquer designed for an airbrush is not working as hoped. Again, bit ruinbed (yet) just another struggle, or obstacle to overcome.
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Mr. Surfacer can be removed by scrubbing with cotton swabs wet with 90% isopropyl alcohol without damaging the plastic, though it will remove Vallejo and Tamiya paints, as well. If you need more precision than the swab, soak a toothpick in the alcohol and rub patiently. The longer the Mr. Surfacer has set the more time it will take. This is also a great way to clean up a Surfacer-filled seam.Mr. Surfacer 1000 (gray), I was trying to do a bit of build-up, the seam between styrene and whatever plastic the vacuform was became an issue.
Special Hobby 1/32, got it free at my local IPMS meeting.Which Yak kit is that?
Will try that, pretty sure the cotton swab would be too large!soak a toothpick in the alcohol and rub patiently
If you need build up? This would work a lot betterMr. Surfacer 1000 (gray), I was trying to do a bit of build-up, the seam between styrene and whatever plastic the vacuform was became an issue.