John Waller
Active Member
Those wingnuts are something else BB! Love the clear shift lever knob too 
British Vickers Light Tank Mk VI C 2026-04
- Thread starter BarleyBop
- Start date
Haha, speaking of those, a reference photo of a restoration has them in red... Along with some other 'actionable' items in the compartment. I wonder how likely it is that the originals in the field were painted that way?
I've seen things like wheel nuts painted red 'on parade', and don't have enough knowledge to know one way or the other.
Jakko
Well-Known Member
Red-painted wheel nuts on British vehicles mean DO NOT LOOSEN! You usually see them on wheels with this type of rim:
If this were a British wheel, the outer ring of bolts, holding on the separate ring, would probably be painted red. Removing those bolts when the tyre is inflated is a good way to badly hurt yourself.
If this were a British wheel, the outer ring of bolts, holding on the separate ring, would probably be painted red. Removing those bolts when the tyre is inflated is a good way to badly hurt yourself.
Yup, knew that about the rims, from reference books.
From an early Bedford portee build...
Knew a guy, dunno if it was a tall tale, who worked roadside tire assistance for semi trailers. He said that in the shop, a young fella leaned over a wheel he was working on, and the split rim essentially flew off straight up to the ceiling. The young fella didn't survive his mistake.
I think of that every time I pass one of those big rigs and wonder if a wheel rim is going to blast through my car.
About the red, I was referring to the photo @John Waller a posted earlier...
Think that was common practice, or restoration license?
Jakko
Well-Known Member
That's what I'm wondering, too. The silver colour for the interior is accurate, though: British tanks until the early years of the war were painted silver inside, because it reflected light well and so made the dark interior easier to work in. However, it also rubbed off on uniforms, which was rather not appreciated as much.
In the early 1940s they switched to white-painted interiors (fun fact: specifically mentioned that manufacturers should use non-lead white, for reasons of the crew's health) because the silver paint contains aluminium, which had better uses at the time. After the war, though, they went back to silver at least in the 1950s. The cut-in-half Centurion in Bovington is painted silver on the inside, for example, and I've seen a photo of the inside of a Dutch Centurion that had been very roughly overpainted with the same pale green as in M113s, with silver still visible in places.
In the early 1940s they switched to white-painted interiors (fun fact: specifically mentioned that manufacturers should use non-lead white, for reasons of the crew's health) because the silver paint contains aluminium, which had better uses at the time. After the war, though, they went back to silver at least in the 1950s. The cut-in-half Centurion in Bovington is painted silver on the inside, for example, and I've seen a photo of the inside of a Dutch Centurion that had been very roughly overpainted with the same pale green as in M113s, with silver still visible in places.
That's been a lot of work and your attention to details shows!
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I was riding my bike on I80/94 in Indiana when the semi tire blew on the truck in the lane next to me. I about crapped myself. Luckily I didn't get hit with any debris, still don't understand how any of it missed me, my first thought was someone had shot at me. Even at 80mph with a helmet on the sound was loud! I can believe the force of those tires exploding would send a split rim flying with a lot of force.
Jakko
Well-Known Member
There's a Mythbusters episode where they test that 
What do you do when your sanding sponge is done?
Why, see to the comfort of your crew!
And scratch some levers while you're at it...
Why, see to the comfort of your crew!
And scratch some levers while you're at it...
I will try to remember this!What do you do when your sanding sponge is done?
Why, see to the comfort of your crew!
And scratch some levers while you're at it...
View attachment 192541
If I can't paint it, you'll wanna forget it! We'll soon find out!
I'm thinking a non-reactive primer so I don't melt the foam...
kevin
Well-Known Member
Maybe layer it with tissue paper soaked with water and white glue, if you can't paint on it directly.
I was going to say the same.
Gonna do some tests...
Thanks for the back up plan!
Two coats of Stynylrez primer seem to have done the trick. Water based acrylic polyurethane doesn't melt the foam, and the dried film is resilient enough to paint I think.
When I do the seat, I'll give it plenty of time to cure.
Two coats of Stynylrez primer seem to have done the trick. Water based acrylic polyurethane doesn't melt the foam, and the dried film is resilient enough to paint I think.
When I do the seat, I'll give it plenty of time to cure.
Keep checking turret/fighting compartment floor alignment, seems like we're still okay.
I should build the turret floor that attaches to the turret and needs to fit in the circular cavity so it can spin with the turret.
I should build the turret floor that attaches to the turret and needs to fit in the circular cavity so it can spin with the turret.
John Waller
Active Member
German AFVs had lubrication points like grease nipples highlighted in "Lipstick Pink"
Attachments
Try explaining that down at the LHS!
John Waller
Active Member
I think that would be a mix-it-yourself colourTry explaining that down at the LHS!
First brushed coat of dark aluminium showing up detail pretty well, even without shading or panel lines.
Seat came out nice!
A quick test of visibility into the fighting compartment through a turret hatch...
Haven't done the turret floor yet, that will be more visible.
Haven't done the turret floor yet, that will be more visible.
I printed and cut out slightly different diameter turret floors, and test fit.
Will use the 25.7mm one.
... So I may be over rotating on this (see what I did there? )
But I really want the turret to spin freely without jamming.
So a brass collar in the fighting compartment floor, and pin to fit the turret floor.
Will use the 25.7mm one.
... So I may be over rotating on this (see what I did there?
)But I really want the turret to spin freely without jamming.
So a brass collar in the fighting compartment floor, and pin to fit the turret floor.
Last edited:
Or 1.012 inches?I printed and cut out slightly different diameter turret floors, and test fit.
Will use the 25.7mm one.
View attachment 192820
... So I may be over rotating on this (see what I did there?
But I really want the turret to spin freely without jamming.
So a brass collar in the fighting compartment floor, and pin to fit the turret floor.
View attachment 192819
Yup, 1 and Âł/250 ths of an inch.
Just right!
Just right!
Hmmm, there may be something to this metric crapYup, 1 and Âł/250 ths of an inch.
Just right!
... Always been fascinated with mortise and tenon construction (starting in my early twenties with dreams of building a post and beam home in the Gatineau hills), whether local barns, New England salt box, Japanese traditional architecture and shoji screens.
So here I am at 68 cutting .03 inch mortises in styrene! Watch those shoulders!
If only I had mini versions of my Japanese mortise scrapers !
The 'tenons' will be securing posts joining the turret to the floor.
So here I am at 68 cutting .03 inch mortises in styrene! Watch those shoulders!
If only I had mini versions of my Japanese mortise scrapers !
The 'tenons' will be securing posts joining the turret to the floor.
I had to get rid of an old dresser that needed quite a bit of work. Hurt so bad because it had those joints.
And it's off to get primer, with hatch pulls.
Work progressing on the turret.
Drew several templates at slightly different sizes and settled on this one.
It is for placement of the vertical pillars tying the turret to the floor in the turret base. It seems to line up well with the slots in the floor... Phew!
Testing the tenon that slips into the turret floor
Then cutting the rim notches, gluing and test fitting for height.
At first, the pillars were about 1mm too high, so the deck of the tank body would not sit properly with the turret base ring inserted in the deck.
After adjusting the pillar length, it seems I still need to shave off a hair for a perfect fit.
Job for tomorrow when I'm fresh.
Drew several templates at slightly different sizes and settled on this one.
It is for placement of the vertical pillars tying the turret to the floor in the turret base. It seems to line up well with the slots in the floor... Phew!
Testing the tenon that slips into the turret floor
Then cutting the rim notches, gluing and test fitting for height.
At first, the pillars were about 1mm too high, so the deck of the tank body would not sit properly with the turret base ring inserted in the deck.
After adjusting the pillar length, it seems I still need to shave off a hair for a perfect fit.
Job for tomorrow when I'm fresh.
