Tamiya bismarck 1/350 with upgrade kit

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Looking good so far, Pantherman.
One thing I found useful on the "wood" deck with the adhesive backing, is to also lay down a thin layer of white glue. It allows for some sliding around even with the adhesive backing film removed. Let's you get it just right before it all sets up.
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Hi Kevin, great advice on the white glue. It was so much easier to get the deck right without having to pull it up again. Much appreciated. Pantherman
 
I had some paint lines from masking and it was driving me nuts so I have wet sanded the lot smooth.

I had also done the black line camo on the hull the wrong way around.

Happy now I'm starting again. Pantherman
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So I'm starting to think about lighting this up. Made a stand for the led strip light. Most of that light will carry up through the superstructure bot the fore and aft portholes will need fiber optic to light each porthole.

Rigged a temporary mock up to make sure it will work and it looks promising. Pantherman
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how much heat is that board producing running on mains voltage ? it will run hotter enclosed like that -- good capacitor killer
You might need to do some light blocking within , too . Have you checked ?
Are you way ahead of me ? haha
 
how much heat is that board producing running on mains voltage ? it will run hotter enclosed like that -- good capacitor killer
You might need to do some light blocking within , too . Have you checked ?
Are you way ahead of me ? haha
Not ahead but almost parallel. The 12v strip does give off a little heat but it should vent through the smoke stack.

I'm not going to have it on very long or very often which is a shame considering how much work and cash is going into it !!

Keeps me out of mischief though and I enjoy the challenge. Pantherman
 
I would have thought to install a few leds in front of some port holes, but you are maybe right
Thought about that and I bought some 12v LED's, but that meant more electrics which I'm not the best at.

I have plenty of room in the hull for the fiber optic and it's going to take a while but that's part of the fun......
Pantherman
 
Just thinking that being port holes, lights should be minimum... but again, will wait to see how the fiber optics will look like.
I agree, though that the light in the hull would do the fore and aft portholes but it was barely visible.

My fibre optic idea is to CA glue the ends to the edge of the led strip, but if that is too bright then I will tape them together and find a spot in the hull which gives the right level.

I may even place the odd fibre optic in a different position to get some portholes brighter than the others. It's gonna be alot of trial and error....... mostly error !!
Pantherman
 
How about a wedge-shaped bit, covered with polished aluminum tape, at the bow and stern. This would reflect the single source of light to the portholes.

I've used reflection to light a few other projects, though never a ship. It worked quite well.
 
How about a wedge-shaped bit, covered with polished aluminum tape, at the bow and stern. This would reflect the single source of light to the portholes.

I've used reflection to light a few other projects, though never a ship. It worked quite well.
Thanks for the idea, much appreciated. Pantherman
 
WELL done P/M at lighting the ship up as should look good i wish others would light up their models as well as i think it brings the models to life an ive just looked right through your build an yove done a great job eps on the p/e as im rubbish at tryin to make them up on my USS HORNET IN 1 /200 scale as i get the shakes when tryin to hard an did them type of plyiers work ok on the p/e ?
ATB for the new yr
chrisb
 
WELL done P/M at lighting the ship up as should look good i wish others would light up their models as well as i think it brings the models to life an ive just looked right through your build an yove done a great job eps on the p/e as im rubbish at tryin to make them up on my USS HORNET IN 1 /200 scale as i get the shakes when tryin to hard an did them type of plyiers work ok on the p/e ?
ATB for the new yr
chrisb
Thanks for watching the build, it is certainly a challenge but I enjoy that.
The Tamiya PE pliers went back to the suppliers as they only gripped the PE at the very tip, surprising from Tamiya but at £30 I wanted something that held the PE firmly all the way along the nose.
I bought a cheap version on amazon and they work nicely.
Hope you had a good Xmas and a HNY to you and yours. Pantherman
 
HI again P/M now what pliyiers did you buy then that were good on p/e ? an can you get them on ebay ?as i would like some an would you mind tellin me the cost of them ?
chrisb an thank you for your good wishes on new year cheers as im just recoverin my mojo after lookin at your build been a great help to me sir
chrisb p/s an any chance of a pic of them cheaper plyiers ?
 
HI again P/M now what pliyiers did you buy then that were good on p/e ? an can you get them on ebay ?as i would like some an would you mind tellin me the cost of them ?
chrisb an thank you for your good wishes on new year cheers as im just recoverin my mojo after lookin at your build been a great help to me sir
chrisb
I will post some details shortly. PM
 
Many thanks P/M AS they are just what i want an cheers for showin them in use on that p/e as that p/e is goin to be a nightmare on my hornet an were these thin enough at the ends to bend the steps flat like the real steps as i had a go with normal small pliyiers an made a right hash up up the p/e so i had to bin that set of steps an are they avaleible on ebay do you know as i cant buy from amazon as not got a credit card an i use paypal ?
chrisb
 
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