brush painting, getting frustrated.

whiskee

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May 13, 2011
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ok, so for the time being I am a budget modeler. As I learn I am sticking with cheap 1/72 scale models and since I have been doing hobbies for 20+ years i have the building part down. I can scribe, scratch build, use putty etc, etc. I can even paint fine details such as cock pits, engines, and so on like a pro. However, when it comes to the part where I have to lay down a large area of paint on my planes or tanks I am failing hard. This is the part that makes my master pieces go from great, to something that looks like a 5 year old built. I enjoy small models, Ho trains, and 1/72 military stuff, I cant afford a darn airbrush and I am not even sure i want to ever even want to mess with one. Does anyone have any tips for me? I am sure i need to thin out My tamiya and humbrol paints. I am really fusterated. It sucks when you pour 20+ hours on a model and ruin it when it comes time to paint. :-[
 
There are lots of variables when brush painting. It sound like you have the general idea given your comment about thinning. The one thing that will make life a lot easier is a primer coat. If you can get yourself a spray can of some kind of primer or some flat base color like gray and spray the kit first your brush painting will go a lot better. All you need is a thin coat.
 
I have to agree with Shutterace,putting a good primer on does help a lot ,but also Tamiya paint is not really good for brushing ,I recomend Vallejo Model colours for brushing ,they go on very well and usually dont leave brush marks ;)

Chris.
 
now that I have had a chance to walk away from it and get some sleep I am a little more calm and I can I think I can explain a little further what is going on. I spent 3 hours scribing ,sanding off rivets, dropping the flaps and priming, my little 1/72 airfix chipmunk. and it looked pretty good. Then I laid down the first coat of paint (humbrol Matte white) and then it started to get gummy and uneven looking. After all that work my heart sank. it looked terrible. brush strokes are not my issue, my issue is globby, uneven paint, and when working on such a small scale it looks even worse. I sanded off the matt white and then I decided to go with a different paint scheme, the Canadian version the modern canopy and the yellow paint job. The tamiya paint when on a little better(still not that great). i am going to finish up this model the best i can maybe I will have better luck next time. I went ahead and ordered some thinner and new paints to replace the humbrols.
 
Sounds like you're on the right path for what you're describing as the problem.
 
I feel your pain ,, brush painting in general, is my kryptonite !
Having the paint at the right consistency seems to be the biggest obstacle
..and having good brushes.
 
Getting a good finish with brush painting is hard regardless of paint.
A quick word on airbrushes though, eBay has lots of cheap gravity fed dual action brushes at a cost almost as cheap as a very good quality paintbrush.
My cheapest one for example, (which came with my cheap compressor), can be had on eBay for 15GBP, currently about 25USD if you're stateside.
It's been a great brush and I've used it for everything from Acrylics to Alclad lacquers.
The compressors are not the cheapest but considering you only buy once they're pretty good value, a compressor and brush kit can be had on eBay for 70GBP, about 115USD.

Re brushing, i'm no expert bear in mind but my observations are:

Humbrol enamels, (i'm assuming you're using enamels?), are great for brush painting, being incredibly thick they need thinning quite a lot, it's hard to say percentages but your looking for a consistency that sticks well to brush and model, flows and covers well and settles within 5-10 seconds, try to avoid brushing over the same area twice, not always possible but this helps it to settle better. Use the proper thinner too, i've tried thinning Humbrol with turps and found it blooms and doesn't give a good finish.
You can dump the thnned paint straight back in the tinlet too for future use, eventually just thin and stir in the tin.
On that note, with all humbrol tinlets, stir them very very thoroughly until you can feel no bits, lumps or gungy stuff in the bottom of the pot, seal and shake the hell out of them then and only then decant, thin and paint.
Tamiya acrylics aren't the best for painting, but can paint quite well, some say they don't require thinning, I find they work better when thinned a little with Tamiya thinner or IPA, decant and thin capping the paint quickly as acrylics dry off quickly.

You'll likely already know but don't try and cover with one coat, this is the biggest problem most brush painters face, with a pale colour like white, yellow etc assume three thin brushed coats to get good coverage.

I hope this helps you.

Just read your other post and noted you're using HUmbrol acrylics, other than the tiny 'kit' pots of these i've not used them and have been grossly unimpressed with them when I have.
It seems like the problem you're having is the same as the one you get with Citadel paints when thinned with IPA, they coagulate, thinned with water should be OK, ideally distilled, this can be gotten cheaply from car spares shops, i'd still recommend humbrol enamels for brush painting.
 
Thanks very much for the support guys, I think the lesson learned here is that its just going to take time, and practice and there is no magic solution. i assume everyone has a method works for them and it ttook time and lots of trial and error.and i just have to do the the same until I find what works for me. Maybe I can get some sheets of styrene plastic to practice on.
 
Don't forget to use a few curved surfaces as well. Like an old soda bottle. Painting on a curve is different from a flat surface.
 
Hey Whiskee,

Brush painting is tough but after finding the paint that works for you and some practice it can be a very valuable skill. Even with airbrushing, I`ve stripped a number of models several times to fix or practice my painting skills (my 1:144 Lancaster was airbrush painted, stripped and painted again three times before I got it where I wanted it).

Just as a side note - other guys here (including myself) have had a rough time with brush painting. Here is another thread that was started on the subject had some good tips.

http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/forum/index.php/topic,1615.0.html
Hope this helps. Keep trying.

JMac
 
Are you priming first? I'm sure enough you know how to stir paint so I know that's not the issue. Perhaps the Umbrol reacts in different temps? Is it old paint (sitting on your Hobby Shops shelves for ever) Not sure about that but I'll throw it out there for poops and giggles.
You know what though? Have you ever washed your models before construction? A warm water wash with a mild dish detergent (soapy solution for about 30 minutes) will help remove any mold release that can still be on the model. When you take the sprue's out of the bath rub your thumb across the surface of the largest part and you should feel some friction (your thumb will not glide smoothly over the surface) as this ensures you that any residual mold release has been removed. The reason I mention this is that mold release, as well as styrene, is petroleum based, and acrylics being water based, well as the saying goes water and oil don't mix.
Ultimately I would wash the parts, prime after construction, and Airbrush at low settings in even strokes so as not to create pooling on the surface of your kit. You can even paint like this in sub-assemblies to prevent painting in tight places.
Yeah, Airbrush....way to go to stay your symptoms.
 
Grendels said:
Also, you can get a cheap air brush set up from harbor freight tools. I have that air brush, while it isn't the best, it isn't the worst either.

Here is a link: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-5-hp-58-psi-compressor-and-airbrush-kit-95630.html

If you have zero budget it is expensive, but cheap at $89.

And here is one from Amazon $72:

http://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose-Gravity-Dual-Action-Airbrush-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q

If you go looking you can find a good one for cheap.
thanks very much for that. that may suit may suit my needs. Also looking at the the aztek starter. I need a most basic airbrush. Just for fuselages, wings. So that may suit me. I would have no problem brush painting on the camo as long as i can that first good coat of paint spayed down.
 
If you can't afford an airbrush i suggest a rattlecan. tamiya and testor makes a wide selection. brushing large sections is just going to look, well...brushy.
 
Those deals John has shown you, are Amazing! For a bigginner Airbrush set!

Remember if you go that way! You will never go back! You will enjoy your hobby even more...

You might start considering changing your paint of choice? Either go Acrylics or Enamels...

Not trying to scare you.... But I hardly use Enamels now! Smells and other issues!

But either way! You will need to discipline yourself greatly! If switching from Enamels to Acrylic
Colors .... In the same Airbrush.... You will need to make sure your AB is really clean and flushed out
Before mixing a different type of paint or it will plug! And get crappy results!

Save some money! Buy less kits for a while! Then make the plung!

A gravity AB is top notch! If not! A syphon will be a good starter AB!

You not have to paint all your models right away!..... Enjoy modifying and scatchbuilding....
While your Amazon AB kit is making it's way to you!!!.... Then you will be busy gor some time to come.
 
These are a couple of things I have found that help when brushing enamels. First, the part has to be cleaned. I just wash the part with dishwashing liquid and avoid handling the part. Any oils on the part will mess up the paint. I also warm up the paint. This helps it flow better. I put the paint jar in a container of hot water for about 5 minutes. I have heard some people will put in a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid into the paint. This too is for better flow. I haven't tried it, I can't remember if this was for acrylic or enamel paints, but people swear by it. Also, use very few strokes. I think one of the biggest mistakes is that people keep stroking the paint trying to level it. I know I do! The paint will level itself. But the more you stroke the paint gets gummy.
Ron W.
 

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