Basic to Rusting and weathering

I can only echo what T says. In fact, it's actually part of their design to be used over acrylics, as there will be no issues with enamels attacking acrylics.

One thing though, start off subtly. Don't load it on right off the bat as it can leave stains if applied too heavily and left for a decent amount of time. You can always add more later, removing too much is harder to pull off.
 
T I've reread tonight's post by you 4 times already. I'm turning into Rainman. What pleasure watching this grow.
 
Thanks G, Thanks and "K-Mart, I buy my underwear at K-Mart...I'm a good driver" ;)

Hiya CT! Thanks BTW...of course think by you 900 year old Jedi I am, ! :-X....... ;D ;D ;D ;D


Hope to have another update tonight, as I added a layer last night and some interior sliming.... ;D
 
T you mentioned a quick "satin" coat as Scott did on his speeder bike. I've always used Tamiya Flat Clear until it was discontinued but now use Model Masters Flat Clear Acryl. What brand Satin? Does MM put this out? In my little head I only see Flats.
 
Vallejo, Badger, and many others have a Satin varnish. I'll let Todd comment on which he's using.

The Satin is a nice 'in between' gloss and flat and gives you a bit of 'gloss slide' when using AK FX but also some 'flat-tooth'.
 
Wow talk about mind blowing!!! I just might have an old Hellcat lying around that could use this kind of treatment!!

Nice Badger Krome!!! btw how do you like it ??

Cheers

Neo
 
Hey Glor, Scott pretty much answered this one. Satin, in between the Matte and Gloss.

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The only ones not shown here that I will use as well is Tamiya Clear Coat or Badger. For recomendation reasons from AK, I would say use Vallejo OK the AK equivelent satin when using the AK products, but not to say I will use others! ::). You can go right to AK Interactive or contact Iain here: [email protected] K4 is just out you certainly contact Richard (K4) by PM here on SMA or e-mail direct: [email protected] Explain what you need, I think he should be able to make it happen. I use these, because I have them. I have been know to laydown a light coat of Future, a coat of Tamiya Clear or even the Testors. They all work well too. Blah blah blah....

This coat is meant to be a bit smooth like Scott said, you will be able to move the AK around and manipulate the look really easy. Good Luck!!

Thanks Scott!!!

Hello Jael!!! Count me in on the Hellcat my friend!! Been sitting on an Avenger, but, I am not the wingy guy I thought I was. As for the Krome....Out-friggin-standing!!! Really versitile. Hair line to wide. Come with 2 needles cup cover, tools and a sweet case! Hit the AK site and talk with Iain, when your ready - AK Interactive !

Hiya FT!! Your welcome and thanks for swinging by!!!

More to come tonight. ;)
 
Nice step by step!
The AK Satin Varnish is currenlty not available individualy.
However, we have many options including Badger 'Model Flex', LifeColor, & also we have the option of adding a few drops of X-22 from Tamiya when we are painting with Tamiya paints. Also available is a satin varnish from Gunze. Each of these can be added directly to the paint in order to skip a step. This will help us avoid any finish issues ( Vallejo & Testers clear have been known to fog on occasion ) & the extra step to apply the clear as a seperate layer.
Thanks for the excelent StepXStep TRM, excelent stuff!
 
Hello Iain!!

Thanks for stopping by and the kind words my friend!!! Straight from the man fellas on this one. I have not had an issue as of yet with either the vallejo or the testors, but will be more aware of what can happen with it now that it is mentioned. Thanks for the heads up on this! I also like the idea of adding the few dropsof Tamiya or Gunze (need to get someof this to try) direct to the paint! This is a big help!

Thanks again Iain!! ;)
 
Back again!!!

With little time to spare in the past couple days, it seems like I have been slacking on this. I am headed out to a chorus concert tonight for my daughter, but wanted to pop this up.

In wanting to get some part put together here, I turned my attention to the interior floor. This will be a damp, moldy and neglected area. Since this is covered...for the most part, it will be much darker and well, damp! ;)

I need to first lay down some substance. I chose to start with AK's Dark Earth. Using some White Spirits to dampen the corners, I began to stipple the pigment in to the corners and where I think things like dirt, rotting leaves and other junk would build up.

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Next I wanted to add some of the moldy coloring I believe would be seen in this damp area. Using AK Dark Slimy Green, I applied this in the corners where you would see some ponding from water.

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This was quickly followed up by some AK Slimy Green Light.

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After applying the Slimy Grimes, a quick light wash down with White Spirits to soften the looks. This is done with a "Humid" brush. Dip the brush and dab quick 1 to 2 times on an absorbent towel and run the brush lightly over you work.

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The very next application was with some AK wet effects. I will have another coat going on here and there, before I am done.

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After a little drying time, the chassis is starting to come alive.

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Making headway on the hood as well. Using the same process I used on the exterior of the cab to reviles the rusty color beneath.

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Here we will take one last look at the cab after the first round of chipping and before the next satge of weathering.

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I think at this point I could say "OK, I'm done"....nope!!! Still plenty to go. The next stage will bring out the faded look the exterior would get from UV (Ultra Violet) rays from sitting in the sun.

Just before I get started on the next stage, I laid down a real thin layer of clear coat to yet again protect the layer below. This ever so slightly modifies the colors of the rusting as I did not spray a lot. This next stage will lighten things a bit.

Here is yet again another layer of hair spray/chipping fluids. This will allow me to manipulate the fading I am applying next.

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After allowing this to dry I choose some Tamiya Deck Tan and Light Sea Grey. I mixed these 15%/15%/70% Thinner. So this is almost to wash capacity but will still react like paint.

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You can see how the underlying paint and rusting immediately lighten in tone.

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Allowing this to cure for the night, I will be chipping and scrubbing very little of this away, to make room for more weathering layers. Building up layers is key to the depth of the weathering. I will be getting back to this in later updates.

Onward......the motor!!

After laying down some clear coat it was onto the AK Worn Effects as I went to town on the forgotten power plant.

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I decided to use some Tamiya Flat Red to add a touch of color. Most of this will most likely not be seen but I know it there and the tiniest of accents sometime will surprise you.

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You can see I left the manifold areas where the heads were installed, untouched.

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Now we need to chip chip chip away again. Taking a small tipped brush I applied a little warm water mixed with a touch of thinner to the freshly painted motor.

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Following the same process on other parts of this kit, I used a stiff bristled brush and lightly stabbed the painted section of the motor trying to hit areas that I think would show through the rustiness below.

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You can see the depth from just this chipping and it only will get deeper.

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SO with all this, onto more soon. I need to dirty up the motor and make a little bit of greasy, oily mess, glue some parts together and add some more layers to the cab and frame.

As always I appreciate the company...thanks for stopping by!!! ;)
 
Love the flat red on the engine T! A very subtle accent that will add a little something, something in the end.
 
Awesome build! I'm learning so much on the products I just bough and getting a better idea of what is to come.

I'll be using some of these techniques on the current build in the spring contest.
 
Thanks CT! Looking forward to adding some dirt and grime onto the motor!! Need to mow the grass first though :-X

Hi Beo!! Yeah, you will be hooked!!! Thanks Again!! ;)
 
GGGGGGGGGreat job Mr.T. I'd like to see that floor in person. I bet it is right juicey.

I've never done a complete junker yet. I aways do cars that are still driveable. But I must do one some time. And a destroyed tank, and a..........
 
Thanks Scott!! ;)

Hiya Q!! Thank You!!! ;D

Hey Matt!! LOL....I thought you were referring to my floor in the shop.....looks almost like the floor of the truck!!! Always up for seeing a good "forgotten" build!!!! Have at it!!!


Amidst the yard work, ball games and other family obligations, I squeezed a couple moments at the bench tonight. Here is where I went.

Back at it with the motor tonight. Beginning where I left off, I moistened the molded exhaust section with spirits and began to add some pigments. To change things up a bit, I am using some K4 True Rust for starters.

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True Rust is a nice colored Rust. I say this, because it is a pigment made from actual rust. I repeated the same process of spirits again and then added a couple random dabs of K4 Rust, which is slightly lighter to the reddish orange scale.

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Now we need to add the dirt and grime in the corners. Now on a working engine, it may be more dusty and have areas that are more fresh and wet with oil. For this, the motor has been neglected for a while and will have some oily sections but most will be oil stained dirt and rust.

Starting with some AK Dark Earth and Engine Grime, I made a sort of slurry. This will be applied in to the corners.

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You do not have to have the Engine Grime. A similar slurry can be created with with Burnt Sienna and Paynes Grey oil paints.

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Mixing the to will give the grimy color and the oil is thicker and can fill the cracks on the engine nicely. You can even add any dark pigment to the oils as well. This will give the oily dirt effect. By adding some spirits to the oils you can make the oily grime wash as well.

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Making sure to dab the grime mixture into the tight corners and areas that oil and dirt would have collected.

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Next I felt I needed to add a little wetter looking oil staining. I have a couple choices, AK Engine Oil and K4 Old Engine Oil. Again, this can be achieved with the oils. Don't wick the oils out on cardboard but rather leave the oils still with the pigment. This will keep a bit of shine to the mixture leaving a slightly damp appearance.

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I still have a couple more little things to add here, but basically that is the engine block!

I hope to get most of the truck assembled tomorrow and move on to more washes and streaking.

As always......

Thanks for stopping by!!
 
Todd that is incredible. It's so small but with the wet effects added it makes the oil leaching out as if it were the real thing....making you believe that the engine is a life size engine. That or you really have 55 gallon drum size AK and K4 products. Your explanation of the layering of product for effect is paramount and your accomplishing it in great detail. Thank you for this. Very informative.
 

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