'64 1/2 Mustang convertible - Monogram

If you're using that rattlecan alkyd then no .
Just make sure the resin is free of mold release . wash the parts to be sure .
Going to try a liquid chrome pen on the mirrors and handles.How would you handle the wipers? Rubber PAINT ON THE blades and...?
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Can wet sanding save this mess?

I may have gone to heavy on the clear. I was trying to hide the paint bumps on the side of the stripes from taping.
I don't even know what you're doing anymore .
You can't sand into the paint . I sent you that 1:1 video for that reason .
I'm still confused about that canyon on the trunk .
(Copied from another boad)
So, I may have gone a little overboard myself. I am really trying to concentrate on the finish of this build by applying things I've learned. The hardest lesson for me is when to leave good enough alone. Stop me if you heard this one before. Everything up to base coat went good. I used practically an entire can of Mr. Super Clear an was afraid the clear coat was still not heavy/thick enough to cover the seams of paint left from my taping job. So I bought a can of 2K after hearing the praise. That went pretty good however I was unaware the can had a 48 hour shelf life. I used what I could in that time frame and was impressed by the gloss. I SHOULD HAVE LEFT IT ALONE. I was still afraid of the paint bumps along the side of the stripes. So I layered on some Future polish. I don't think the lacquer liked that. It created "creases" in the clear coat.
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Will wet sanding save me? I'm scared of wet sanding.
You can't get rid of paint issues with clearcoat . It's clear .
There is no chemical reaction going on between those coatings -- after they are cured of course .

Might as well dip it in an epoxy clear then spray it with Pam cooking spray next .
Then what after that ?
Alkyd clear ? then turtle wax ....

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