1/48 Revell B-17G

[adampolo13]

Hello all,

I just scrapped my first attempt at an aircraft and I'm starting on the 1/48 Revell B-17G. I'm just wondering if anybody has any tips on this build. So far all I've done is paint the decking and the bulk heads. My biggest question is what color to paint the interior, the instructions say aluminum but all the research i've done leads me to think its zinch chromate. Any tips and pointers would be great.

Thank you.

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[Dusky]

Lots of colors were used on the interior of the B-17 and it really depends on the specific airframe (which you probably won't be able to find anyways.) Do a Google search for "B-17 interior color" and you will get hundreds of leads.

 

[adampolo13]

So, I airbrushed the bulkhead and handpainted the details. If I airbrush a flat cear over the whole panel will that get ride of the brush marks? Also, should I apply decals before or after the flat clear? I've also been thinking about using future floor wax but I can't find any within 100 miles of where I am. Southern CA, USA. Any other products in the US that I could use?

Thanks for the help,

Adam

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[the Baron]

So, I airbrushed the bulkhead and handpainted the details. If I airbrush a flat cear over the whole panel will that get ride of the brush marks? Also, should I apply decals before or after the flat clear? I've also been thinking about using future floor wax but I can't find any within 100 miles of where I am. Southern CA, USA. Any other products in the US that I could use?

Thanks for the help,

Adam

You're in the US and you can't find Future? You should be able to. Try the housewares aisle of your grocery store, or if there's a Walmart or Target or other discount department store near you, they should also carry it. You might find it at a hardware store, too, or maybe even at a convenience store, if they sell home cleaning supplies.

Note, though that the formal product name is now "Pledge (with Future shine)" Here is a link to a more thorough article at "Swanny" Mark Swann's website (a tip of the hat, as Mark Levin says):

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Regarding the interior colors, you can get away with using a general interior green. My philosophy is that I pick a good base color, and then I'm going to add highlights and shadows, with washes and drybrushing, and that the real subjects were subject to all kinds of weathering, so I eyeball it.

Have fun with this build, this is a very nice kit, despite its age, and many's the builder of my vintage (b. 1964) who built this kit the first time around. It's got a nice level of detail, out of the box, or you can add some nice detail through scratchbuilding (a great exercise) or with some aftermarket sets. The figures are classic Monogram figures, too.

I'm looking forward to following your build!

 

[adampolo13]

Thank you very much for your help. I cannot believe it, I have called every grocery store and hardware store in a 50 mile radius. Nobody around here carries Pledge with Future Shine. I just don't get it. Any other ideas?

 

[redraider56]

There was ALOT of variation in B-17 interior colors....the color you're using will work just fine.

For decals, you best apply them over a gloss surface.

If you can't find Future, just use any gloss coat you have access to.

 

[Dusky]

Clear coats won't hide brush marks. If the paint is level you may be able to paint another coat over them to hide them, but it is not level you'll have to sand it a bit and then apply another coat. What paints are you using? The folks here can probably help you with a few tricks on how to thin paint for brushing or additives to slow the drying or help it self level.

You want to apply decals to a smooth glossy surface, never a flat surface. A glossy surface also helps with washes and weathering. Leave the Future on the floors and buy an actual clear paint/varnish. About every brand makes it. I personally prefer the acrylic ones with Tamiya, Vallejo and LifeColor being my favorites to use.

 

[adampolo13]

Thank you all for the pointers. Too make a long story short, my wife found me a bottle of future at a hardware store about 30 minutes from our house. I immediately dropped everything and went and got it. I'm going to apply a coat to the bulk head later tonight.

I am mainly using Tamayia and Model Masters Acryllic paints. The exception being some model masters enamals. Is there a way for me to thin the paints so I don't get the brush strokes?

Also, I've never tried to "dry brush" or weather a model. I would love to give it a try but don't really know where to start. I've seen and read tons of pointers but I'm afraid I'm going to mess up the model...

 

[Dusky]

Even when brushing, sometimes you want to do several thin coats.

Tamiya acrylics generally don't brush well. You can't brush over them right after painting like you can with some other acrylics.

Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder (image)works well with most acrylics to slow drying time and help it flow better. (They also make a gel version.) You can find it at most art stores and can buy it online. Don't add it directly to the bottle of paint. Add a couple of drops to the paint you want to use in a pallet or what not. Don't use it with Gunze. Tamiya X-20 acrylic thinner also contains a mild retarder and works well with Tamiya acrylics. I prefer using it to thin Tamiya acrylics for airbrushing.

I don't know anything about enamels.

You can try out dry brushing on spare parts and sprue. The trick is to pretty much have nearly no paint on the brush. I've seen some people use artists pencils to dry brush, but I've only had luck with metallics. Lots of different weathering techniques out there using a variety of materials. You can always get a really cheap kit just to practice techniques on first before applying to a good model.

Have a link of more weathering techniques to further complicate things. ;D
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/

 

[adampolo13]

Alright, I have to admit I am a little embarassed to admit I never thought to thin the paint to the point where I would brush a number of thin coats... I don't know why, but it just never occured to me.

I have to say thank you for that suggestion because I just tried it on the box top. I did three very thin coats of model masters natural wood. It came out so well you can still clearly see where the kit molded the groves for the wood panel. Thank you agian for the suggestion!!!

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[adampolo13]

Hello everybody,

So after much debate, I decided to go ahead and try to weather the model a little bit. I did it by drybrushing a few different colors. I really like the way the seats came out. This is the first time I ever tried to dry brush something, wow do the details really pop. Just looking at the seat belts in their olive drab color was boaring, but when I dry brushed silver on the buckles, wow they are really there. I am really enjoying this kit. Thanks again for all the help. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go.

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[the Baron]

Hi, Adam, no sweat about the thinning, we're each learning all the time I just figured out on my recent Mustang builds to thin my Tamiya OD, to use it for touchups. Never occurred to me before, because I'll use it right out of the bottle, when I'm painting a figure or details. But I had been messing around with a couple of solvents and paints, and just by dumb luck, had to do some touching up. And when I used the thinned paint (50-50 paint to Tamyia thinner, added with an eyedropper on the palette), I could have smacked my forehead and cried out, "Why didn't I think of this before?!"

Glad that you found the Future. You've seen, there are fervent opinions on either side of the question, but you'll have to try it yourself and see. To the point about other clear coats, you might also find substitutes at the hardware stores or automotive supply stores, but always experiment on some scrap or a glue bomb first.

Your drybrushing came out well, congrats on picking up more techniques, you're enhancing your enjoyment!

 

[adampolo13]

Thanks for the words of encouragement! I am really enjoying this build! In the past I was always so concerned about just getting the model done. Now I am just enjoying the process. I now understand what you meant about the amount of detail in the kit!

I got a ton of work done over the weekend. I'm attacking the wings right now. I will post some pictures this afternoon.

Thanks again!

 

[Dusky]

Looing good! Better than what I can do.

 

[adampolo13]

Alright, so I work from home and have spare time during the day. (It's a double edged sword) Here are pics of where I am now.

The thing I'm most excited about is many years ago I attempted to build this kit and gave up after it came out crummy. I have attempted two other aircraft kits since and have given up. This time I'm not giving up! It will be my first complete aircraft ever.

Thanks agian for all the help!


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[adampolo13]

So, I'm working on the wings. Here are some pics. As you can see there is a pretty nasty gap. I am doing my best, (first time) at filling with putty and sanding. I know a lot of you out there have build this kit. Any hints or ideas on how to do this without lossing panel lines etc would be great.

Thanks again.

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[Dusky]

This should help with repairing raised panel lines. http://cs.finescale.com/FSMCS/forums/p/103411/1016988.aspx

 

[Bzzymatt]

with gaps like that, you will lose some panel line detail.

The revell b-17 was what I built for my first ever model competition. I made first place in nationals for junior division pure luck if you ask me

however I found some videos on youtube that helped me build the bomber.

here is the link: http://www.youtube.com./watch?v=UduaawM_Arw

It is a 10 part video, but shows how much scale modeling has changed over the years. I think it's perfect for beginner modelers

The host in the video, Chuck Davenport, is a great modeler. He is my icon in my modeling career for WWII aircraft ever since I won my first model contest with my B-17.

After several years of building, I entered my first IPMS model competition "Adult Division" I am only 16 years old and I entered a 1/48 P-51D Mustang with an open cowling with the engine and other details made from resin and scratch building. That was when I met Chuck Davenport in person!!!!! He is a great guy and I had plenty to talk to him about from his videos.

Before I continue to get away from the subject, these videos should help you along the way. but don't attempt to give your B-17 the aluminum finish suggested in the video link I provided you. That method is extremely dangerous!!!!

Take care

Matt

 

[Bzzymatt]

I also forgot to mention that wet sanding is a good way to help keep the panel lines from wearing down quickly.

 

[adampolo13]

Hey Bzzymatt, thank you for the link. I will be sure to watch of the videos! This is also going to be my first ever aircraft. I have a 1/48 Harrier in the closet but I've been eyeing the B-29 for my next model. I am starting to get hooked on the WWII aircraft. How many OOB builds did you do before you started scratch building & using resin kits? I'm thinking I should get a few under my belt before I get into that stuff. What are your thoughts?

Thanks again!