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I also do not like working with PE. I built a New Jersey 1/350 that came with lots of PE. I tried but made a mess of it. I struggled to bend the pieces without breaking them or destroying them, and getting them glued in place didn't go much better. I was using Krazy glue and after I glued enough of the PE to my fingers I gave up on it.
HI Jantk14 what happened to you sir is what im goin through now as i got C/A all on my finger an i was stuck to the ship at times untill i used super glue debonder on it then i got my fingers off the ship an the p/e looked a right mess but i havnt given up yet as i managed to strighten some parts of the p/e out so it looks reasonable but not bein big headed here but ive never had a problem like this on any model as the model always turns out acceptable over the last 40 odd years so to me to be beatin by a crummy bit of thin brass is just unacceptable so im still goin to have another go an see how i get on or end up in a rubber room oh dear
atb sir
chrisb
 
I just started the Revell 1:48 B-1B. It had been on my shelf for about 4 years, and I finally decided to crack it open. I plan to build it in flight, so won't need to worry about aftermarket gear and weapons. I did splurge on the Reskit engine nacelles and Army Cast wing kit. Between the wings, adding some rivet lines and pulling the warpage out of 30 year old plastic, I suspect this one will take a while.
WOW MJY65 THATS one of the planes i want to build when i get the time from the end of other builds CAN YOU PLEASE PUT THE BUILD ON HERE SO I CAN SEE WHAT THE KIT CONSISTS OF ?
ATB SIR
Chrisb
 
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This was unboxing day. The table is 40 x 80 inches. Not a particularly detailed kit, especially if you aren't building with open bays.

IMG_2327.jpeg
 
This was unboxing day. The table is 40 x 80 inches. Not a particularly detailed kit, especially if you aren't building with open bays.

View attachment 179673
WOW MJY65 please please sir put this into a proper build thread in aircraft under construkion as ive been thinking of gettin this kit to light it all up as it looks a big kit sir
chrisb
 
WOW MJY65 please please sir put this into a proper build thread in aircraft under construkion as ive been thinking of gettin this kit to light it all up as it looks a big kit sir
chrisb
I plan to build it in takeoff configuration as if you were viewing from off the end of the runway. Gear up, but flaps still deployed. In that set up, not much lighting would be visible. I think the overall size of the parts would give plenty of room to pass wires.
 
I plan to build it in takeoff configuration as if you were viewing from off the end of the runway. Gear up, but flaps still deployed. In that set up, not much lighting would be visible. I think the overall size of the parts would give plenty of room to pass wires.
WELL Sir in your take off cofideration cant you put nav lights an tail lights an big 5 mm flickering orange or yellow leds in the engingines as ive done this an it looks good
chrisb
 
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WELL Sir in your take off cofideration cant you put nav lights an tail lights an big 5 mm flickering orange or yellow leds in the engingines as ive done this an it looks good
chrisb
You could. It's going to be viewed head on, so the burners wouldn't really be visible.
 
You could. It's going to be viewed head on, so the burners wouldn't really be visible.
OH OK as i was thinking you was talking about a rear veiw of the aircraft takin off
but should look very good sir
chrisb
 
OH OK as i was thinking you was talking about a rear veiw of the aircraft takin off
but should look very good sir
chrisb
I should have specified my viewing position as being off the departure end of the runway. I've never lighted a kit before, so would definitely need to do some learning and figure out suppliers, etc.
 
I should have specified my viewing position as being off the departure end of the runway. I've never lighted a kit before, so would definitely need to do some learning and figure out suppliers, etc.
WELL NO worryies on whitch way you was thinkin on take off an if you want some info on lighting a kit just p/m me an i will be glad to help you sir if i can
chrisb
 
A driver's door for a MPC 1984 GMC pick up.
The doors were molded shut to the body. I want to have some doors open in my diorama so I got to modify it somewhat.
Cutting the door from the body went alot better than anticipated.
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I cut the interior door panel from the cab tub and need to build the door out to the proper thickness. Going to have gaps to fill between tbe cab tub and body as well.
I need to figure out how to attach the door to the body in the open position also.
One thing at a time though.
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Have I mentioned that I hate painting tracks before?

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Four armored project held up at least to some extent by fear.

Top to bottom:
PzIV (Nashorn technically)​
Jagdpanther (seen in background)​
M3A1 halftrack​
M4-E8
 
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Detailing... involves taking a rotary tool to the wingtips to add brass handgrips, of course!

View attachment 180405
Now for the landing gear.
Apparently not this kits' forte. Sounds like a tomorrow job.
I like seeing all the odd details on airplanes and military stuff that you guys add that people like me never knew was there. 👍
 
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Stripped everything off the Cutlass RestoMOD. I decided I'm not interested in the 442 style 2 tone look.



Then I laid down a darker gold base on the main body. Now I'm getting ready to modify the front fender extensions to fit the modified front clip. I don't like car's FX body kit..so that stuff is getting trimmed or tossed altogether.



Here is a render of the final body plan for both this 1/25 and the full scale version. I'm having trouble deciding if I keep it Gold or spray Kandy Red on top of it.




No one makes any chin spoilers or fender flares for the real car, so I'll be fabricating those parts with fiberglass.
 
When I built my F16 my canopy had a nasty seam right down the middle. Didn't know what to do with it at the time, but it wasn't acceptable for my future builds so I you tubed it. Some scraping, some ultra fine sand paper and some Tamiya polishing compound, and this spare canopy came out great.
IMG_4864.jpeg
 
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After nearly ruining my Yak-3 build I pulled it out of storage and hope to finish it soon.

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I took bad advice and used Tamiya extra-thin on the open version of the canopy. Allegedly it is safe to use on clear parts, but I'm going to say do not do that.

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It is a bit hard to see, but the rear most part of the one on the right is marred irreparably. The glue did not "fog" the way CA would do, but it definitely messed it up. Attempts to polish it out were fruitless. I even tried to clean up the "closed" version which I painted over as a mask, but the crack was a no-go. I now have a vacuformed one coming, I've heard horror stories and have never used it before, so wish me luck :-)
 
After nearly ruining my Yak-3 build I pulled it out of storage and hope to finish it soon.

View attachment 181594

I took bad advice and used Tamiya extra-thin on the open version of the canopy. Allegedly it is safe to use on clear parts, but I'm going to say do not do that.

View attachment 181595

It is a bit hard to see, but the rear most part of the one on the right is marred irreparably. The glue did not "fog" the way CA would do, but it definitely messed it up. Attempts to polish it out were fruitless. I even tried to clean up the "closed" version which I painted over as a mask, but the crack was a no-go. I now have a vacuformed one coming, I've heard horror stories and have never used it before, so wish me luck :-)
Elmers white glue is the only thing i will use on any clear parts, head lights, windows, sun roofs and Ttops or aircraft canopies,. easy to remove to if you ever want to repaint a car body, soak it in some warm water and off they come. ;)
 
Painting tracks also........

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Never painted these types of tracks though, going to let them set for a couple days to see how I feel about them while I work on the vehicle that will set on them.
What's going on them? Come on, spill the beans man!
 

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