Tamiya 1/35 Sherman M4A3

[Jantk14]

I jumped this to the top of my stash and started it today. And does anybody know what the tracks on this version are made of? I'm pretty sure the outside is rubber pads but what is the inside made of? I'm trying to figure out if I want to dry brush the inside a bare metal color.

 

[Jakko]

The tracks are T48 rubber chevrons — see here, scroll down about a third of the page to get to the T48. The blocks were entirely rubber, inside and out, while the end connectors (the teeth on the ends that link the blocks) were steel.

 

[Jantk14]

The tracks are T48 rubber chevrons — see here, scroll down about a third of the page to get to the T48. The blocks were entirely rubber, inside and out, while the end connectors (the teeth on the ends that link the blocks) were steel.

Thanks

 

[Ron2]

The tracks are T48 rubber chevrons — see here, scroll down about a third of the page to get to the T48. The blocks were entirely rubber, inside and out, while the end connectors (the teeth on the ends that link the blocks) were steel.

How do you find these resources? I search all the time and can't ever find info like this.

 

[Ron2]

I jumped this to the top of my stash and started it today. And does anybody know what the tracks on this version are made of? I'm pretty sure the outside is rubber pads but what is the inside made of? I'm trying to figure out if I want to dry brush the inside a bare metal color.View attachment 188923

That's a good kit. I enjoyed it. Typical Tamiya!

 

[Jakko]

How do you find these resources?

Part of it is really just stumbling across them, another is that — in this particular case — it's fairly well-known as pretty much the main reference web site for Shermans. Kind of a poor man's Son of Sherman (Which, I see, is available again just now due to a small restock. If Shermans are your thing, that US$199.99 is not an extravagance if you can afford it.)

 

[Jantk14]

Got the road wheels and suspension done. I'm at the point now where I have decide if I want the drivers hatch open and have the driver popping his head out, or closed and no driver. Any opinions on it? I'm definitely going to have the commander out of the turret hatch.

 

[Ron2]

Got the road wheels and suspension done. I'm at the point now where I have decide if I want the drivers hatch open and have the driver popping his head out, or closed and no driver. Any opinions on it? I'm definitely going to have the commander out of the turret hatch.View attachment 189050

I did both. That shot looks way shinier than it is.

 

[Jantk14]

Got most of it built. These Tamiya tanks go together pretty fast.

 

[Jakko]

BTW, an obvious thing missing from this kit are the supports for the engine grille doors when they're opened, which Tamiya omitted entirely for some reason. They're the items numbered 1 in this illustration:

(source)

You can see one prominently in this photo of a restored M4A3 (105 mm) VVSS tank:

(source)

If you have some plastic card, they're easy to make. Just cut two little rectangles, about 3 × 4 mm and glue them to the model per the illustration above.

Another small detail that's easy to fix is that on 105 mm tanks, the rack with gun cleaning rods under the stowage shelf (part B39 in step 6 of the instructions) was normally empty, because it was for 75 mm and 76 mm rods, and the longer 105 mm rods didn't fit. Just cut all the rods out and remove the bit sticking out one side, and it will look OK.

 

[Jantk14]

I don't have plastic card. Where would someone get it? Also too late for the rods. That piece is already glued in place. Thanks for the tips.

 

[BarleyBop]

I don't have plastic card. Where would someone get it? Also too late for the rods. That piece is already glued in place. Thanks for the tips.

Evergreen is probably available at your local hobby store... Comes in all shapes, thicknesses and sizes.
A cheaper alternative is to raid your recycling bin for plastic packaging, even if it is clear, you are going to paint it!

 

[Jantk14]

How about an old credit card? I have one that needs to be cut up and tossed.

 

[BarleyBop]

credit card?

Ha, if you can achieve the thickness you want; I'd do a quick test with CA glue and primer, just to be sure!

Just think, if you use the right piece, you could tap your tank at the checkout counter!

 

[Ron2]

Ha, if you can achieve the thickness you want; I'd do a quick test with CA glue and primer, just to be sure!

Just think, if you use the right piece, you could tap your tank at the checkout counter!

That would be awesome!

 

[Jakko]

How about an old credit card? I have one that needs to be cut up and tossed.

That probably has about the right thickness, so sure, go ahead and try. The main thing is whether you can get it to stick with either plastic cement (probably not) or superglue. But that's easy to test by trying to glue a bit of sprue from the kit to the card — somewhere the card has bare plastic, else you would be trying to glue it to the ink

 

[Edbert]

Many credit cards have a film layer of some sort, you'll want to peel or sand it away 1st.

 

[Jantk14]

I decided to buy the Evergreen sheets from eBay. Seems like a better idea. I'm sure I'll have a need for it in the future.

 

[Jakko]

Once you have some of this kind of stuff, you'll probably find plenty of uses for it

 

[Ron2]

Once you have some of this kind of stuff, you'll probably find plenty of uses for it

I fixed our garbage can with it!

 

[Jantk14]

So I had some flat clear canopy pieces in the scrap box. I brush painted them real quick so I could see them and then put them on. How's it look? If it sucks I can still remove them before I go to painting.

 

[Jakko]

That looks pretty good — I would keep them if it was my model.

 

[Jakko]

I fixed our garbage can with [plastic card]!

These are louvres from the dashboard of my parents' previous car, that I repaired a few years ago after some pivots had broken off (the middle one is intact and served as the template for what to make). The white is 1 mm (IIRC) plastic card, the green is sprue from a kit that my father turned down to the correct diameter on his lathe. All glued with Tamiya extra thin, as that also works on the ABS that the louvres were moulded from.

 

[Jantk14]

So yes I am going to cover most of this green with white, but after being a little disappointed in my color variation on my Pershing, I tested myself with this one. Base olive drab, then shaded with equal parts olive drab, white, and then a few drops of yellow. After I very lightly hit some of the dark areas with olive drab mixed with a few drops of red brown. I'm very pleased with how it came out. I almost want to skip the white and not clear coat because I don't want to lose my detail.

 

[BarleyBop]

... See what you mean! Looks great.
Even if you go to the white, we've all seen the great job so far!
Would not of thought of the red brown.

 

[Ron2]

So yes I am going to cover most of this green with white, but after being a little disappointed in my color variation on my Pershing, I tested myself with this one. Base olive drab, then shaded with equal parts olive drab, white, and then a few drops of yellow. After I very lightly hit some of the dark areas with olive drab mixed with a few drops of red brown. I'm very pleased with how it came out. I almost want to skip the white and not clear coat because I don't want to lose my detail.View attachment 189372View attachment 189373View attachment 189374

That's excellent shading!

 

[Jantk14]

Put the running gear on and the decals. Also weathered the tracks for a tank running through the snow. Going to do the white camo tomorrow.

 

[Jantk14]

White camo is on. Now I have to do the stowage and figure out how I'm going to weather this if at all. Maybe just some post shading and snow effects.

 

[wjbrandel]

Nice job on the camo.

 

[Tommergun]

White camo is on. Now I have to do the stowage and figure out how I'm going to weather this if at all. Maybe just some post shading and snow effects.View attachment 189534

Looks so good!