Returning to Modeling After 50+ Years - Need Advice...

[Littlemarten]

No idea what your budget allows, but I've been very happy with my Pace Peacekeeper booth. You have an out of the box set up with a solvent safe fan, lighting, filter holder for 1" furnace filters, aux power outlets and a 4" exhaust fitting for exterior venting. The one I have came with a 265CFM blower, so theoretically changes its air about every 2 seconds. I'm sure inefficiencies in duct resistance, etc reduce that, but even if it is changing half that often, it's pretty dang good.

https://www.pacepaintbooth.com/36-inch-deluxe/

Sounds like you bought big one (36 inch). Because of space considerations, I needed one to fit in the window, which meant the 24 inch "Super-Mini". I had to do a lot of "re-engineering" for that installation, and I was very unhappy with the lighting in that particular model. Those things aside, I've been very happy with its performance. I did a lot of research on what was available, and this brand seemed the most practical, but they are rather pricey. On the up side, they use readily available furnace filters. Filters can become a big expense if the booth requires OEM. It's a big investment, but it's worth it for the sake of your lungs, liver, and kidneys, and your heirs will inherit it.

"Portable" booths are much smaller, and not all vent outside. Many require specific filters. Unless you are doing 1/72 and smaller, I don't recommend any of them, even though they are much cheaper. That said, it might pay you to shop around.

I've also seen ones that don't vent outside. I consider them unsafe, period.

 

[Dan the Modeler]

There has been a lot of great information shared here. I can only add that you may want to consider a single action airbrush to start. Dual action require a bit more finesse vs a single action, and has a stepper learning curve, being that you are controlling the amount of air and paint flow. Also to consider is a siphon feed vs gravity feed. Both have their place, as well as paint capacity of both. It's best to do some research and see what best fits your uses and situation. If in doubt, always ask away here, plenty of experience to go around that can help you fine tune the information to suit your needs. HTH

 

[Albireo]

Well, thanks to all who've replied. I think it wise to start out with a simple model kit and do the painting the old-fashion way, brushes, small spray cans and do careful masking. The investment in time, setup, and the learning curve for using an airbrush is not what I want to do now, not yet at least. That day may come.

 

[Dan the Modeler]

Well, thanks to all who've replied. I think it wise to start out with a simple model kit and do the painting the old-fashion way, brushes, small spray cans and do careful masking. The investment in time, setup, and the learning curve for using an airbrush is not what I want to do now, not yet at least. That day may come.

A solid plan of action. In the meantime, take your time and research airbrushing. When you're ready to pull the trigger, you'll be well informed and ready to enjoy the experience.

 

[Edbert]

Hi, so water based is the opposite of solvent based paints correct? And they would need much less ventilation then?

I came back to the hobby last year after about 25 years and was blown away by the myriad of paints/glues and chemistry "stuff" in general. Back in the day there were enamels (Testors/Humbrol) and acrylics (Tamiya was the only one I knew of). Of course there were lacquers then too, but my LHS didn't really carry many of them. I stayed away from acrylics even though they were non-toxic and low odor because of what I knew about painting on canvas, acrylics were for kids and starters, Grumbacher oils were for those who knew what they were doing, LOL.

Anyway, last year I found out that some (not all) acrylics (Tamiya) are water based, but you can also use isopropyl alcohol as thinner and cleanup. But there are other acrylics that are not water based at all. I'll just come right out and say, I do not understand this at all, but I've moved on and do not want or need to.

I still have several bottles of Testors "Model Masters" but the entire line was cancelled after some ****** bought Testors and killed their greatest product. So I invested pretty heavily in Tamiya bottles, both the X and the XF series.

There may well be better products out there now, I suspect there are 50+ paint manufacturers today, the learning curve is steep unless you are a chemist, but I think you can choose among many brands/types and be in a good place.

You will probably want to have two entirely different types of paint if you are into aircraft and armor, that allows you to paint one color on top of another without the second color molesting the first.

 

[Littlemarten]

Hi, so water based is the opposite of solvent based paints correct? And they would need much less ventilation then?

No. "Water based" means the primary solvent in the paint is either water, or something compatible with water. It is possible to have other solvents in the solvent blend, and they may or may not be toxic. There are a LOT of things that go into a modern paint, and you want none of them in your body. There is no paint that you want to smell or inhale in any quantity. While there are still a lot of people who will tell you otherwise, adequate ventilation is always necessary. The difficulty is in defining "adequate." I've given my definition.

To start out, consider one of the smaller commercial booths—just don't decide to build a 1/32 B-52. As long as it vents outside, and the model fits inside the booth, you are good to go. If I recall correctly, some of those are under $100.

The main expense of a home-built spray booth is the fan/motor combination. My first spray booth, forty-odd years ago, was made from scrap plywood and lumber, and a scavenged explosion proof fan. Total cost at the time was under $20. Used acrylics only.

I'm not trying to be discouraging. If you only do brush painting, a fan in the window might be enough. But if you are airbrushing or using an aerosol can, you need better than that. If you can smell it, you shouldn't be.

 

[MJY65]

There are a LOT of things that go into a modern paint, and you want none of them in your body. There is no paint that you want to smell or inhale in any quantity. While there are still a lot of people who will tell you otherwise, adequate ventilation is always necessary. The difficulty is in defining "adequate." I've given my definition.

As I noted, I'm a big proponent of well constructed exterior vented booths, but let's not scare the guy off of the hobby. Unless you are drinking it, I can't imagine brush painting with Vallejo presenting any credible hazard that would manifest itself in the OP's lifetime.

 

[Littlemarten]

As I noted, I'm a big proponent of well constructed exterior vented booths, but let's not scare the guy off of the hobby. Unless you are drinking it, I can't imagine brush painting with Vallejo presenting any credible hazard that would manifest itself in the OP's lifetime.

I wasn't speaking about Vallejo in particular, which I consider one of the safer products I've seen, especially for brush work. However, I wanted to be more general, being all too aware of human forgetfulness. I myself have forgotten to turn the blower on when opening a bottle of toluene, xylene, methylene chloride, or other noxious solvent because I'm concentrating on what I'm building. If someone as cautious and paranoid as I am can do that, anyone can. I was raised in the era of "Oh, that stuff won't hurt ya" stupidity, and have paid the price. "There is no zealot like a convert."

So I apologize to pengbuzz if I came on too strong and scared him.

 

[pengbuzz]

I wasn't speaking about Vallejo in particular, which I consider one of the safer products I've seen, especially for brush work. However, I wanted to be more general, being all too aware of human forgetfulness. I myself have forgotten to turn the blower on when opening a bottle of toluene, xylene, methylene chloride, or other noxious solvent because I'm concentrating on what I'm building. If someone as cautious and paranoid as I am can do that, anyone can. I was raised in the era of "Oh, that stuff won't hurt ya" stupidity, and have paid the price. "There is no zealot like a convert."

So I apologize to pengbuzz if I came on too strong and scared him.

It's all good, Littlemarten :thumb: It's always a good idea to review safety in using paints, glues, solvents and chemicals in our hobby. I think we can at points get too comfortable and take things for granted. While we may not immediately see the results of such, sooner or later they do pop up.