ready to throw away the testors "orange tube"

[whiskee]

I have been using the classic testors orange tube glue for over 20 years now and i am starting to realize just how crappy it is. It has ruined a fine model for the last time and is going in the garbage can. What is my replacement? I have already discovered the magic of tamiya exta thin and know when to use that, but it wont work for everything.

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

Why wont it work for everything? (aside from photo etch and/or resin) All I use when assembling models is liquid glue.

I think the biggest mistake I see people making when using liquid glue (like Tamiya thin etc.) is that they apply it to one part by brushing it on the joint and then they try to fit the other part. While this can/does work, it usually doesn't work that well. The glue evaporates very quickly and most of the glue will gas off before you can get the other part on. This is will either give you a lousy join or you will have to re-apply all over again if you aren't quick enough.

The best way to use liquid glue is to hold the two parts together lightly and touch the brush to the join, the glue will be drawn into the seam via capillary action creating a much better bond. Once you have the glue applied, a little pressure will provide an almost seamless connection.

 

[ShutterAce]

Tamiya Extra Thin is my standard. I also use CA for quick bonding and Pro Weld when it absolutely positively has to be melted . I have and use others but those three do 98% of the work around here.

 

[JMac]

I have Ambroids non-toxic cement, the Tamiya extra thin, and two viscosities of CA. The Ambroids is not bad as a liquid sovent/cement, smells nice (like oranges) but produces a kind of weak bond is some plastics (I noticed it would not even melt/join the plastic in the Pegasus manufactured kits). Now really all I use is the Tamiya extra thin, and two viscosities of CA.

The best way to use liquid glue is to hold the two parts together lightly and touch the brush to the join, the glue will be drawn into the seam via capillary action creating a much better bond. Once you have the glue applied, a little pressure will provide an almost seamless connection.

This is great liquid cement advice / how-to...I would just add that you want to be careful when applying the cement - a little can go a very long way, try to avoid to over applying too much to a joint, this can lead to a huge mess also...and like everything modelling related, it takes a little practice and technique.

 

[Junkie]

Tamiya Thin rocks.

 

[whiskee]

so i should try to use the extra this for everything? as long as i can hold two parts togther "zap" it in the joint?

 

[ShutterAce]

so i should try to use the extra this for everything? as long as i can hold two parts togther "zap" it in the joint?

Yep

 

[Grendels]

I also use plain old tamiya cement, along with the extra thin. Tamiya cement holds a little bit better. I have had some problems with the extra thin on occasion of not holding the two parts together.

Also the regular cement can be used like the orange tube glue. Apply it and then put the parts together. I will use it when I already have paint applied, or for small delicate parts.

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

so i should try to use the extra this for everything? as long as i can hold two parts togther "zap" it in the joint?

IMO, yes.

here's a little video showing what I mean:

USING GLUE

 

[Glorfindel]

I threw that stuff out when Dean Martin took the dirt nap. It's been Tamiya Thin ever since....though that Ambroid stuff looks interesting. Can you snif it like Lloyd Bridges in Airplane?

 

[schweinhund227]

Yep! That Tube Glue is only good to make Icicles in a winter diorama.... Nothing else!
Beside melting styrene or making angel hairs everywhere but where you need it!

Best glues have Been mentioned!

Tamiya thin (green cap), Tamiya liquid cement (Orange cap), Testor liquid cement (purple label)
ProWeld.... Strong stuff... C.A. glue. Thin,medium,thick, you name it it's out there...

Don't buy them all! Buy what you need when needed! If you don't do much resin or mix media models... You may never need! (I say again, may never need CA glue).

But, I must say! Tamiya thin cement or Testor liquid cement are your best friends! From now on!

Thanks Ken for the great Vid.

 

[letsgobrowns82]

Hey you should also give Tenax 7r a try. On youtube the Painting Clinic's channel has a review of this stuff. It is super strong and great for glueing parts like fuselages together. It actually welds the plastic together leaving a small seam to scrape away and no gaps. I wouldnt consider it to be used for everything but its definitely handy to have around.

 

[Quaralane]

Yep! That Tube Glue is only good to make Icicles in a winter diorama.... Nothing else!
Beside melting styrene or making angel hairs everywhere but where you need it!

Actually, I have one VERY special use for the tube stuff.
I use it for battle damage on models.

(To be done in well ventilated area, and with extreme caution)
I lay the glue down where I want my damage.
Then I light it with a match and let things burn for a few seconds.
I'll also tilt the model to better simulate a directional hit.

 

[MrNatural]

i have my last testors tube on display kind of like an old museum relic

 

[scalebuilderchad]

That Testors orange tube is great glue. The tube is just a horrible delivery system.

I would keep on using that glue until it is gone. But when you do use it, put a dab on a scrap of something and then apply it with a toothpick.

But if you really do want to change glues, here is my recommendation.....

Tamiya Extra Thin in the square bottle with green cap. This stuff works awesome, but it works best with bare parts. No paint or plating in the way.

Now if you want to glue painted parts, use Revell Contacta Professional. It comes with a handy little needle applicator.

 

[the Baron]

I still use Testor's tube glue, too, for some things. There are times when I might need a little time to adjust a piece before it sets completely. It's true, though, that the tube is a poor delivery system. I usually put a drop of the glue on a palette-the fake credit cards that come in the mail are good for this-and then use a pin or a toothpick to apply it to the piece.

I use liquid glue, too. I have Tamiya extra-fine, and I also have Testor's liquid cement in that odd-shaped bottle with the long spout and a wire applicator/stopper.

I also use these just for styrene-to-styrene, to get the weld bond. For other materials, like resin to styrene, to resin, or to white metal; or white metal to white metal; I'll use 2-part epoxy or CA glue.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

I know this is a really old post but I still use Testors glue in the orange tube. Other glues I use are:

Gorilla Glue - blue cap. I recently discovered Gorilla Glue in yellow cap - comes with a handy brush.

Liquid glue - I have 2 kinds…
Tamiya Extra thin another called 10 Second Liquid glue - my go-to for most applications.

I never use the ones in the blue and green tubes. Reminds me of the old orange scented garbage glue of the 70s. LOL!

 

[Motoretrolia]

I've used the Testors orange and white tube although wanted to get into more of a non-toxic product. Tried the Testors NT item and while I could make it work in certain conditions, I found it difficult to work with overall. A few years back while looking for a NT glue, I discovered a UK product, Roket Plastic glue by Deluxe Materials. I like this product and the pin point applicator works well with great control. It has very little smell and seems to work well with tight fitted assemblies. It goes a long way, I'm still on my first bottle.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Old thread from 2011. ROFL!!!!

 

[scalebuilderchad]

Old thread from 2011. ROFL!!!!

You are the one that revived it a year ago.

 

[RocketRanger]

I found that tube glue is very good to use in very specific situations.
It's appropriate for parts that need to be glued together that have small available bonding surfaces that are close to other parts that can't get glue on them.
This would include tight spaces like attaching parts near rotating prop pins or clear parts that need to be glued that can't risk getting bonded or glazed by flowing liquid cement.
Make sure the bonding surfaces are bare plastic (no paint) and apply a very small drop of glue from the tube tip to a toothpick and apply it by rubbing a small amount of cement exactly where needed.
Make sure to use the minimal amount of glue that will not ooze out between the bonding surfaces of the parts being glued after they are pressed together.
In fact, I used tube glue yesterday on some parts around rotating prop pins where liquid cement would have certainly flowed into the moving parts and immobilized them.
I've used the little yellow Humbrol tubes of glue that came with Airfix Starter and Gift Sets and the Revell Contacta gel glue in the blue tube.
For some weird reason, I like the Revell tube glue although it's more "stringy" than the Humbrol tube glue which I also use.
The selection usually comes down to whichever one I find first when I need to use it.
And don't forget, tube glue just smells so darn delicious!

 

[OldManModeler]

I use them all. Testors tube glue, Testors liquid, Tamiya extra thin and Tamiya basic cement glue. I have some Testors liquid glue (3507) in the nifty black bottle too. And the cheapest CA glue (Super Glue from the dollar store) that I can find for photo etched stuff. Each have their usefulness for kit building.

I used Zap brand CA glue many years ago for RC stuff but I haven't built an RC plane for years since my dad passed away.

If I want a slow dry easily adjustable glue, I still use the Testors tube glue. Such as when putting AFV upper and lowers together and structural parts that can't be seen. I use my old business cards and squirt some onto them and a toothpick to apply it to the parts.

Back in 'the day', think 1970's, tube glue was all that we had. I built some pretty spider webby kits back then but with time you learn to apply it sparingly. With experience and toothpick application kits can and did and do come out well.

Today's modelers have it good. Especially with Tamiya Extra Thin. The capillary action of that glue is amazing. It dry's fast too. Almost too fast sometimes.

 

[OldManModeler]

I found that tube glue is very good to use in very specific situations.
It's appropriate for parts that need to be glued together that have small available bonding surfaces that are close to other parts that can't get glue on them.
This would include tight spaces like attaching parts near rotating prop pins or clear parts that need to be glued that can't risk getting bonded or glazed by flowing liquid cement.
Make sure the bonding surfaces are bare plastic (no paint) and apply a very small drop of glue from the tube tip to a toothpick and apply it by rubbing a small amount of cement exactly where needed.
Make sure to use the minimal amount of glue that will not ooze out between the bonding surfaces of the parts being glued after they are pressed together.
In fact, I used tube glue yesterday on some parts around rotating prop pins where liquid cement would have certainly flowed into the moving parts and immobilized them.
I've used the little yellow Humbrol tubes of glue that came with Airfix Starter and Gift Sets and the Revell Contacta gel glue in the blue tube.
For some weird reason, I like the Revell tube glue although it's more "stringy" than the Humbrol tube glue which I also use.
The selection usually comes down to whichever one I find first when I need to use it.
And don't forget, tube glue just smells so darn delicious!

Yep. I agree 100 percent... except the glue smell part at the end.

 

[scalebuilderchad]

Like others have said, you should have a few different glues on your bench because they all have their strengths (and weaknesses).

For bare plastics with no paint or chrome on them I have two main glues. When the parts fit really well together and there is not a gap I use Tamiya Thin with the green cap. If there is some gap or I need the glue to be thicker so I can rely on the glue to kind of help hold the part in position, I use the Tamiya glue with the orange cap. They both have brushes in the cap for easy application.

If a part has paint on it and I don't want to be bothered with removing the paint, I have Revell Contacta Professional. It comes in a blue container with a needle point applicator like the old Model Master glue did. And to be honest it smells and acts just like the old Model Master glue. It is probably the same stuff and it works great when you are gluing painted parts.

Then I have 3 different CA or super glues.

I have thin CA glue when the parts fit together very well, or I need it to cure fast.

I have the gold CA glue for general purpose tasks. And I use this for gluing clear parts because if you put it on a card it gases out fast and then you can use it on clear parts CAREFULLY and it won't fog them.

Thick CA glue. As you can imaging, I use this to glue parts together that don't fit well, or if I need some strength in the joint. I also use this thick stuff to fill seams and holes when I am doing body work on a car model. I use it as a body filler because it cures quick and is sandable.

And then finally I have started using clear UV curable resin a bit in my builds. This stuff is great. You have an hour or more to work with it because it doesn't dry out. It doesn't cure until you hit it with a UV light. And once you cure it that stuff sticks to anything and it sticks GOOD. The only weakness I have found it it doesn't cure 100% hard and sandable or paintable. But that could just be the resin I bought. And because of this I can't use it anywhere that it will be visible on the finished product.

I also have Elmers glue for when I do flocking.

And I have JB Weld for the occaisonal times when I need to glue metal together.