Nitto Ma.K Maschinen Krieger A.F.S. Mk I

[Ian]

Yours looks like all the warning markings were painted on the armor after he has seen years of harsh service.

I know! Going to try the Micro Sol method today and see what happens.

I gotta second on the light weight spackle. Takes a bit to dry, but very easy to work with.

Awesome, will try that.

 

[ModelMakerMike]

Okay...I hope you realize I wasn't being critical. I seriously wanted to know.
It is a topic I have been thinking about for a time now.

 

[Ian]

Yup, totally fine!

 

[Ian]

Ok, did a bit of decal chipping using Micro Sol, toothpicks and a little dremel action. I only have a flat clear coat so I think that's why you can still see the decal edges.

BTW, I just got the Dremel Stylus (my first ever dremel) and it's AWESOME! Did some gouging on the 'groin' metal plate at the front I think it looks great.

 

[adampolo13]

Dude, that chipping looks amazing!

 

[LrdSatyr8]

I loved those Ma. K Nitto models. They were awesome! They came with lights, metal parts and springs, and once they were put together they looked absolutely fantasic! The molds were crisp and the details on them were incredible. But sadly, I only was able to find one of these awesome kits at my local hobby shop back in the 80s. It was the Neuspotter, NS465... I never really knew anything about the Ma. K world, but loved the german/nazi/sci-fi look and feel of them. I got the Neuspotter because it was the only kit I ever saw that came close to looking like the Probe Droid from ESB. I loved these kits. Wish I had more of them to build because they were just so much fun!

 

[ModelMakerMike]

That looks great!
The chipping of the decals worked beautifully!
;D ;D

 

[Ian]

Not bad huh?

 

[Grendels]

Decal chipping came out great!

It was the Neuspotter, NS465... I never really knew anything about the Ma. K world, but loved the german/nazi/sci-fi look and feel of them. I got the Neuspotter because it was the only kit I ever saw that came close to looking like the Probe Droid from ESB. I loved these kits. Wish I had more of them to build because they were just so much fun!

That is one rare kit. The molds for it don't exist anymore so only the Nitto kits exist. No one will be doing a re-release of it.

 

[Ian]

Weird, I'm watching one on eBay: http://bit.ly/UkrbCt

 

[spud]

awesome Stuff Ian, it gets easier. one thing i would say is don't rub so hard use warm water and plenty of it just brush it on and on and on over the course of 10 mins if you find its not budging and it its still not doing what you want then leave it as you end up hitting plastic and that's a pain in the bum, you can always do some sponge chipping in them areas

Looking awesome sofar

 

[Ian]

Yeah, I was getting a bit aggressive with it. The larger chunks I was then filling with a pencil for a "metal under the paint" look, but I found that pencil is a little too shiny. Can I use something else? Or should I just matte or satin clear coat it?

And with regard to clear coats - I've read about a gloss clear coat hiding the decal edges, but what if I don't want a gloss finish? Do I use gloss first, then go over with satin or matte?

Thinking about getting a few bottles of Alclad's clear line. I'm liking their flat coat stuff.

 

[Cave_Dweller]

Looks pretty awesome dude. In you inspired me to try the salt weathering technique myself, its so cool looking!

You can chip the decals with care while theyre still semi-wet with a very sharp xacto blade. Very sharp, mind you. Some magnification also helps with this.

 

[the Baron]

Yeah, I was getting a bit aggressive with it. The larger chunks I was then filling with a pencil for a "metal under the paint" look, but I found that pencil is a little too shiny. Can I use something else? Or should I just matte or satin clear coat it?

I used a matte acrylic stone gray, to represent the bare metal (or bare ceramic) of the suit under the paint. I chose that color, after looking at objects made of steel, painted, and exposed to the weather, like steel tube railing on a set of steps. Steel exposed to the air that way takes on a dull finish and a grayish hue.

And with regard to clear coats - I've read about a gloss clear coat hiding the decal edges, but what if I don't want a gloss finish? Do I use gloss first, then go over with satin or matte?

Thinking about getting a few bottles of Alclad's clear line. I'm liking their flat coat stuff.

Clear-coating as you're describing is usually done as a prep before putting down the decals. The silvering of the clear carrier film comes from air trapped in tiny pockets in the matte surface beneath the decal. A gloss clear coat fills those tiny pockets, reducing the chance that air gets trapped.

There are a couple of ways folks use a clear coat. Some coat the whole model, for a uniform finish, then apply the decals. Some don't coat the whole model, but use a clear acrylic when applying the decal, laying a puddle down and putting the decal on that. Some guys also apply a second clear coat over the decals after, again, to tie everything together and get a uniform finish.

Then there are the choices for the clear coat--a clear acrylic liquid, like Future, or one made by one of the hobby suppliers, or even one from the hardware world.

I don't know if applying a clear coat now will reduce the look of the carrier film now, though, because I've never tried that. The decals on my Raptor didn't show silvering, but it was still possible to see where the decal film ended, at certain angles, so it may even lie with the nature of these decals.

Don't know how much that helps, but that's what all comes to mind.

PS-on looking again at the photos, it occurs to me that the effect of the decal film might not be visible, or as obvious, to the naked eye, but they show up in digital photography. Once you have the suit on a bench, and with some more weathering, you might not be able to see the film.

 

[Cave_Dweller]

@ the baron, I've always applied my decals straight onto paint and apply some decal setting solution. Follow that up with some testor's dullcote and I've never had any problems, gives a nice uniform finish

 

[Ian]

@the Baron - Many thanks for your comments, most helpful.

 

[Ravhin]

I've been playing with decals for a while and usually (this depends on the thickness of the decals and other factors) a matt coat will hide the edges unless you look at them at a certain angle with the right eye.

If you are doing a gloss finish you can top coat, then you sand on top of the decals, because there will be a small bump of top coat where the decal is, and that will even everything out and make the edge disappear, after that another gloss coat and you won't see anything. I did that on my Delta Plus in the group build and worked great on all except a couple of them, though you most likely won't see it

 

[Ian]

Ordered some satin and gloss clear coats and should get them this weekend. Excited to try them out.

Got his back hole in.



but do I want something sticking out of him?

 

[Glorfindel]

You shot him!!!

 

[Ian]

Poor guy.