Low tack masking tape pulling off paint.

[lacrosse dad]

Alright, as a rookie I've done this twice now. Model in question is the terrible F-14A from Revell. Brother asked me to build one for him. Using Mission models white primer and Vallejo model air paints. First time I thought I didn't wait long enough for masking but 14ish hours later using what I thought was less tacky tape the same thing happened, tape removed paint all the way to plastic....what am I missing. Disclaimer, I do not wash parts before painting....go

 

[urumomo]

Oh ,
Mission Models paint ?
that's the issue .

https://www.scalemodeladdict.com/threads/mission-model-paints-are-not-waterproof.14120/

 

[lacrosse dad]

Alright, still in the development of favorites stage. I will move forward without Mission model paint/primer

 

[the Baron]

I'm not a fan of Vallejo Model Air paints, either. Though others are. I'd rather use an enamel or even a lacquer for an application like this one.

 

[Jakko]

I found that Mission Models paint scrubbed off the model when I applied a wash (of acrylic paint plus water) over it. Somebody then told me that some people like it for this, whereas I decided to not use it again …

For the overall base coat, I prefer Tamiya or Mr. Aqueous acrylics, because they adhere well and cover well.

 

[mark2]

I've never really had a problem with paint peeling off but I most of the time use tamiya rattle can primer without washing the sprues, if that stuff fisheyes on the first bit I prime I will wash them

 

[MJY65]

What are you missing? Lacquer primer and paint.

 

[lacrosse dad]

What are you missing? Lacquer primer and paint.

I don't know a lot about the different types of paint as of yet, nor have I tried to shoot them, but my workspace is pretty enclosed and not at a position to use anything but acrylics yet.

 

[MJY65]

^^^^

Understood. Then you may just need to do the best you can with making sure you are laying the acrylic down on a clean surface and then letting it fully cure before taping.

 

[Edbert]

I'm assuming you are using masking tape meant for this type of thing. Does not have to be the expensive tamiya brand, many have luck with yellow "Frogtape" that you can get at Lowes or Home Depot.

One thing useful for masking tape (sometimes) is pressing it against your forehead for a second before putting on the model. That tiny layer of oil helps reduce the tack, but not too much.

Another thing, you should allow the paint to dry for a while, say 24h, before putting tape on top. Even though it feels dry to your finger, it might not be fully cured.

 

[TimM63]

Also what tape are you using? I only use Frog Yellow and never had this issue.
https://www.frogtape.com/products/delicate-surface-painters-tape

 

[BarleyBop]

your forehead for a second

I envy your perfect complexion Edbert.
If I did that one of three things might happen.

The tape stays stuck to my forehead.
The tape refuses to stick at all to the model.
My tank has very realistic oil stains.

 

[lacrosse dad]

Also what tape are you using? I only use Frog Yellow and never had this issue.
https://www.frogtape.com/products/delicate-surface-painters-tape

I have Tamiya yellow tape and Hobby Lobby brand...I also brought home paper medical tape and it pulled the paint. I think mixing brands of paint also could be an issue.

 

[urumomo]

It ain't an incompatibility issue , it's MM's crap adhesion .

 

[lacrosse dad]

It ain't an incompatibility issue , it's MM's crap adhesion .

And maybe a touch of operator error too

 

[urumomo]

Meh .
it appears to deliver the same crappy performance to all

 

[MJY65]

Meh .
it appears to deliver the same crappy performance to all

Agree. Too many special potions and shenanigans required to kinda, sorta, make it work. My supply all hit the trash after a couple of lousy results.

 

[Littlemarten]

I'm a strong proponent of washing the parts of the model before assembly/painting. Mold release does not play well with acrylic paints.

Also, even the supposedly "fast drying" acrylics need time to cure, even Tamiya and Gunze. I use Vallejo almost exclusively, and allow their primers to cure 24 hours before overpainting or masking. Same with the top coats. You can accelerate curing with mild heat—I borrow our heated, forced air food dehydrator if I'm in a hurry.

Reducing the stickiness of masking tapes is best accomplished by applying them to a clean surface like a glass or hard plastic cutting board, press down firmly, then remove and apply to model. Skin oil does not play well with paint coatings.

 

[BarleyBop]

I borrow our heated, forced air food dehydrator

That's a Class A misdemeanor in my house = doghouse for me!

 

[Edbert]

That's a Class A misdemeanor in my house = doghouse for me!

I'd tend to agree with lacquers or toxic paints, but with non-toxic acrylics not so much.

My wife objected to that at one point, I talked her out of it by asking her to smell the model parts.

 

[BarleyBop]

I talked her out of it by asking her to smell the model parts.

... I dunno, ...

 

[Littlemarten]

That's a Class A misdemeanor in my house = doghouse for me!

I'm going to be eating food that comes out of that appliance, so I'm very careful to be sure the paint is solvent free when it goes in. I'm accelerating curing, NOT drying. I generally wait about an hour or two before trying to accelerate the cure. I never try accelerate drying. Most coatings need to lose their solvents relatively slowly to allow the binder to level out and form the proper cross-liking of organic molecules.

 

[styrenemachine]

I used to massacre many a paint job from lifting paint. I haven't tried my forehead, but pressing and lifting the tape on the bottom of my forearm numerous times to reduce the adhesion to almost nil will work for all model paints.

All the best