Kazon Torpedo model kit & contest entry

part two is coming soon.

I just wanted to point out that because I say it's a super simple kit; it's super simple for me. That doesn't mean that I didn't put any work and effort into it. It's just simple. It's not something that could be done by an average 6 year-old...

Just didn't want you to think that I'm taking the easy way into the entry. There's still a bunch of "advanced" techniques to be done on it and painting and seam filling and all that which makes a model nice.
 
Mike,

Simple doesn't matter, nor does your skills, my skills, or for that matter anyone else's skill level. Happiness is what matters. If this kit makes you happy then it will show in the video and everyone will enjoy watching it. From what I got out of the video, you enjoyed putting it together and that is what counts at the end of the day.

This forum exist because many of us like to share and learn from each other. Other forums don't have this and that is a shame. I learned something from your video and that is a bonus to me!

So my advice is to build what makes you happy, and do your best. I know that when I vote in this contest I am NOT going to be thinking about how easy the kit was, but more along the lines of how well that kit was done.

So get after it and make the best torpedo ship you can!!!!
 
DUDE!
I've built one of those and got some really nice results with it. And the design leaves it open for any kind of interpretation. I actually have one on my bench along with last year's attempt at the SMA contest..still sitting in a box unattended.
But good find and can't wait to see what you do with it.
 
Don't sweat it.
Typically, I have the same mindset through out the painting process, but just keep on working it and eventually it will come together.
 
That's the great thing about paint. If you don't like it strip it and start over. Super clean is great for stripping, or if you have been using Tamiya paints then plain old alcohol.
 
Hey Mike, Great vid.

You've been into model building since you were 16? I'm 29 and only now doing my first model. I must be by far the most inexperienced forum member here.

I'd be interested to know how the plastic cement around the seams turned out. You used a different method on both sides?

This looks an interesting model with some good detail and simple construction. I saw it in my local model shop recently. Might have to go back and get it.
 
Igard said:
Hey Mike, Great vid.
Click to expand...

Thanks! ;D

the results weren't dissimilar. I think the liquid cement is when you need to bond a joint quickly or when you think it's necessary to have the plastic ooze out the seam for seam elimination. The tube cement worked just fine.

There were some seams that were unavoidable like on the fore armor frame. A little putty and it was fine.

The model, like I said is pretty simple, great for someone who's in a rut and can't seem to get out of it or for a beginner or to go nuts on weathering. The Kazon didn't appear to care much for their external hulls.
 
Liquid glue is just much neater than tube glue, I use it exclusively. I don't think I've used tube glue in decades. I'm not implying that it's not good or doesn't work but it can be messy, make big blobs or those pesky strings...

liquid glues best feature is that you can assemble the two parts first, holding them together in one hand and then simply touch the fine brush to the seam and the glue is drawn into the seam, (in most cases the entire length of the seam) by capillary action.

They both function the same way in the end since they both melt into the plastic and cause the two parts to weld themselves together. I am currently cleaning up a Finemolds Millennium Falcon that was started by someone else who used tube glue, the parts are melted into each other and have become 'one' in most cases, in the exact same fashion as liquid glue. The difference being the large blobs that surround the small part where it melted into the surrounding area and caused some distortion. Liquid glue evaporates much quicker so this doesn't happen as easily, plus if you're neat/careful you wont get the glue anywhere but inside the seam.

If you are comfortable using tube glue then by all means, keep using it. The benefits to using the liquid glue though can make assembly a much simpler task IMO.

8)
 
perhaps we're thinking of different things.

I'm talking about the cement that comes in the glue that comes in the black bottle with the precision point needle, not the orange and white literal "tube". Yeah, that one leaves gobs. The kind in the black bottle seems a bit thinner than the regular tube stuff.
 
Ahh,

yes that is one of the liquid glues then. ;)

I was thinking of the old school tubes, like toothpaste or something. I believe the older AMT/ERTL Star Wars kits even came with a tube of that stuff.
 
Thanks for the breakdown. I picked up both types, so I can experiment a bit myself.

Seems to me that the tube version, or the one with the needle, would be better suited for seams and areas that are hard to reach and require more precision, where the brush on stuff is perhaps quicker and easier for the larger areas.
 
I used Tamiya dark yellow on it which I ran out of and now can't do the rockets because of it. Turned out nicely - that which I did do. Did the forward framework by hand. Took some doing but I think it's nice.

One thing's for certain, I'll need a new and better air regulator. I twisted and twisted but it wouldn't go under 40 PSI so I figured that'll do for an overall coat.

Now I just need to know if they make fine needles and tips for the Anthem 155.
 
progress report

kt5.jpg

kt1.jpg

kt2.jpg

kt3.jpg

kt4.jpg
 
nice work Just Mike - paint job loos good.

You going to add some black/dark gray chips to replicate damage?
 

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