Tamiya M26 Pershing 1/35

[Jakko]

Late response but doesn't rust also depend on the vehicle and what the tracks were made of?

True, but tracks on a vehicle that's being driven through terrain every day will generally not be rusty and frequently end up quite polished.

Rae most people adding rust when in fact the tracks have manganese and a brownish tint?

New manganese steel has a fairly normal steel colour, AFAIK. My idea is that a lot of modellers are misled by tanks in museums, where the manganese tracks have had half a century or more to build up a deep brown rust colour but don't look heavily rusted (because cast manganese steel doesn't rust in the way a car exhaust does ) and so think that the natural colour of these tracks is brown.

I tend to lean towards no rust unless it's abandoned.

Same.

 

[Jantk14]

Maybe some of you all with more experience can help me out. I just put on a gloss coat before I put on the decals to avoid silvering. Silvering is a problem I've had with most of my builds. I don't usually use a gloss coat but I use a satin. Not that that is any better because when I built a Corsair in a dark blue the satin wiped out my detail as well. The clear coat went on great but it has completely obliterated all of the light colored weathering I did with the airbrush. Now it is just a boring solid color olive drab tank. With dark paints should I just not bother with the gloss coat and just use a Matt coat to avoid losing all my detail? Just accept the silvering. Does a gloss coat even really stop silvering?

Here's a picture of my before and after boringness

 

[Ron2]

Maybe some of you all with more experience can help me out. I just put on a gloss coat before I put on the decals to avoid silvering. Silvering is a problem I've had with most of my builds. I don't usually use a gloss coat but I use a satin. Not that that is any better because when I built a Corsair in a dark blue the satin wiped out my detail as well. The clear coat went on great but it has completely obliterated all of the light colored weathering I did with the airbrush. Now it is just a boring solid color olive drab tank. With dark paints should I just not bother with the gloss coat and just use a Matt coat to avoid losing all my detail? Just accept the silvering. Does a gloss coat even really stop silvering?

Here's a picture of my before and after boringnessView attachment 188094View attachment 188095

Do you spray a final coat of matte? The details are still there but the gloss takes away from them. I usually use a satin prior to decals, never had a problem with silvering. I've also used gloss- feel like I have better control with satin. When all is done I then hit it with matte.

 

[Jantk14]

Yea I will do a final coat of matte. I hope they come back.

 

[Jakko]

A gloss coat will help prevent silvering, because it's caused by the rough surface of a matt coat which causes air to be trapped between the paint and the decal. I don't think I've ever seen it with Tamiya decals, though.

 

[Jantk14]

So I'm done with the weathering. I used all oils. I still have to clear coat and put the stowage and figure on

 

[BarleyBop]

oils

Great effects.
Another thing for me to learn!

 

[Ron2]

So I'm done with the weathering. I used all oils. I still have to clear coat and put the stowage and figure onView attachment 188346

Looks great!

 

[Jantk14]

Finished. Really nice kit. Pretty happy with the way it turned out

 

[Ron2]

Finished. Really nice kit. Pretty happy with the way it turned outView attachment 188551View attachment 188552View attachment 188553View attachment 188554View attachment 188555View attachment 188556View attachment 188557View attachment 188558View attachment 188559View attachment 188560

Looks great!

 

[BarleyBop]

Pretty happy

I'd be too! It even looks heavy!
As I'm finding out, weathering is such a delicate balance if you want it to feel plausible. Very nice.

 

[Edbert]

Beautiful!

Hard to imagine that the US had the Pershing in combat in 1945, but was still using Shermans in combat during 1953.

Obviously Pershings too, just surprised the Sherman was still active. Guess it is similar to M60s being in combat during GW1 in 1991.

 

[kevin]

Good looking build, I like how the paint work turned out.

 

[Jakko]

Hard to imagine that the US had the Pershing in combat in 1945, but was still using Shermans in combat during 1953.

Part of that is exactly because there were so many Shermans: right after a major war, there's usually a huge surplus of equipment, which means nobody wants to spend more money on weapons. Thus, keep using what you already have, with new production — even of much better stuff — ending up on the back burner. Korea was a pretty big war, but the kind of fighting done there mostly didn't need the latest generation of tanks, at least not once the front lines had stabilised. In 1950, the Sherman was clearly the inferior of the T-34-85, the imbalance made worse because North Korean crews were better-trained than US crews, but once most of those T-34s had been lost, the Sherman was generally good enough for much of the fighting being done in Korea.

Of course, because the M26 Pershing and M46 Patton (which was little more than a re-engined M26) were in production, had a better gun and the Cold War was getting worse, they soon became the main tank in Korea anyway.

 

[ambivalentmaybe]

Nice build! I really like the weathering and color modulation. The two boxes on the back, though—not tied down, not near each other, seem out of place. Maybe either more stowage or less? The figures, also, might benefit from a final wash to bring out the detail. In any case, a very nice job.

 

[Jantk14]

Nice build! I really like the weathering and color modulation. The two boxes on the back, though—not tied down, not near each other, seem out of place. Maybe either more stowage or less? The figures, also, might benefit from a final wash to bring out the detail. In any case, a very nice job.

Thanks. The two boxes and the ammo boxes is what the kit came with. I just followed the instructions for placement. I figured Tamiya knows more than me.

 

[Jakko]

Pershings in Germany didn't generally carry all that much stowage, at least not initially. Though the ration box on the engine deck looks a bit odd, I must say. Mostly, it seems to have been strapped to the rear mudguards and the turret sides, like on this tank in Cologne:

 

[Ron2]

Thanks. The two boxes and the ammo boxes is what the kit came with. I just followed the instructions for placement. I figured Tamiya knows more than me.

I've used thread for rope, it's scale, you can give it a wash of Elmer's glue to stiffen it more like rope. Also have used thin lead strips to make straps to tie down cargo.

 

[Jakko]

I've used thread for rope

For tow cables, I usually use white nylon thread these days, from a spool I've had for over thirty years.

 

[Edbert]

the ration box on the engine deck

Maybe they were warming it up?