M3A1 HALFTRACK - 1/16 - from Andy's Hobby HR

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I am using AK masking film that I cut and use as a stencil

AK Masking Film.jpg
 
Been missing out on the action but I'm definitely all caught up now. All I can say so far is WOW!!! This build is rockin'!!
 
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On this model, the ordnance as much as I know is: one M2 0.5 and three M1919 0.3 machine guns (see below). Am I right?
And question: how do you paint these machine guns to look realistic? Obviously black, but with different nuances.. So, the receiver matt but with some grey, the barrel support black and the barrel black shiny? All with some dry brushing silver?? Any input welcome.
Thanks

IMG_1166.jpeg
 
Am I right?
Yes.

As far as painting, I think there are multiple answers. I used to use a Humbrol "gunmetal" that worked great. It was too old when I started building again so I bought some new ones, IMO they are too light/silver/gray. I like the results of a semigloss black or very dark gray followed with a light drybrush of dull silver.
 
On this model, the ordnance as much as I know is: one M2 0.5 and three M1919 0.3 machine guns (see below). Am I right?
The official load-out was one M2 HB .50-calibre gun and one M1919A4 .30-calibre gun:

M3A1 halftrack personnel carrier armament.jpeg


But there are three mountings for the M1919A4, so the intention was that it would be fitted on whichever side of the vehicle the crew needed it. In practice, crews often "acquired" one or two extra guns and fit them in empty sockets. The one most likely to be left empty would be at the rear, I would think.

And question: how do you paint these machine guns to look realistic? Obviously black
Not black :) American firearms of the Second World War were usually "parkerized", which is to say: phosphate conversion coated. This gives a matt finish to the weapon, frequently in medium/dark grey or a greenish colour. These weapons definitely don't look really metallic, so don't use silver, gun metal or any colour like that. Let me link to Forgotten Weapons' treatment of the M2 HB once more:



If you watch that, pay attention to close-ups of the gun. It doesn't have much, or even hardly any, proper "metallic" colour on the outside. Here's a quick still:

M2 HB close-up.jpeg


For any M1 Garand rifles you want to put in the model, this Reddit post has some useful information.
 
Yes.

As far as painting, I think there are multiple answers. I used to use a Humbrol "gunmetal" that worked great. It was too old when I started building again so I bought some new ones, IMO they are too light/silver/gray. I like the results of a semigloss black or very dark gray followed with a light drybrush of dull silver.
Thanks Edbert...
 
The official load-out was one M2 HB .50-calibre gun and one M1919A4 .30-calibre gun:

View attachment 176530

But there are three mountings for the M1919A4, so the intention was that it would be fitted on whichever side of the vehicle the crew needed it. In practice, crews often "acquired" one or two extra guns and fit them in empty sockets. The one most likely to be left empty would be at the rear, I would think.


Not black :) American firearms of the Second World War were usually "parkerized", which is to say: phosphate conversion coated. This gives a matt finish to the weapon, frequently in medium/dark grey or a greenish colour. These weapons definitely don't look really metallic, so don't use silver, gun metal or any colour like that. Let me link to Forgotten Weapons' treatment of the M2 HB once more:



If you watch that, pay attention to close-ups of the gun. It doesn't have much, or even hardly any, proper "metallic" colour on the outside. Here's a quick still:

View attachment 176531

For any M1 Garand rifles you want to put in the model, this Reddit post has some useful information.

I knew I will get a detailed answer. Thanks Jakko.
 
Though perhaps not kosher, I like to barely 'dust' just a tad of Tamiya titanium weathering to pick out a few edges or raised bits... I find it helps 'de-plastify' the look and feel.
Will try a few options and see what looks better
 
The silver you use should be a dark or dull silver, and applied very lightly, just to bring out highlights, but I guess it depends on how weathered the overall halftrack will be, they did get abused.

You could even use some color variations for interest, particularly on the 50, I think the barrels discolored first from heat, but not the shroud, it would be much more matte as seen below.

1768585179344.png
 
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Edbert, yes will try. In most pictures I have seen, the support barrel looks darker than the receiver, same on your pic.
Btw, where do you stand on your M3 halftrack?
 
Btw, where do you stand on your M3 halftrack?
I've not worked on it is at least a month, too many in-progress and the last week I've hardly done anything on any kits. Work ramped up at the start of the year and been remodeling the man-cave with thoughts of adding more AC and bringing my paint booth in from the garage.

I'll get her done though.
 
It's a man-cave, not a caveman cave, wait, that's redundant.

I guess that means that if electricity and air conditioning are present it is not a cave to begin with?
 
I feel like I am intruding on GCB's thread here. I'll update the "show your workbench" thread eventually, but this is the state of my bench today, covered with drywall/sheetrock dust that will need to be addressed before more modeling.


1768782378100.png
 
Meanwhile worked on the rear of the halftrack. And it was a difficult one: cutting, grinding (dremel) and sanding as the back was not fitting at all.
Reminded another Takom model, the AH-64D Apache, with very nice details and most pieces fitting well but others completely out of alignment. Not sure if Takom sub-contract some of the parts, or have a major quality control problem, or just rush some parts and do not design them well.
Anyway, finally fitted and continuing.

IMG_1266.jpeg
IMG_1267.jpeg
 
My experience with Takom kits is that fit tends to be very tight, but that fit problems are usually caused by the modeller … You really need to dry-fit everything and for things like the sides and rear of this halftrack, would do well to put all three panels in place, glue the sides only and then take the rear off again once the glue has set.
 
Jakko, I did dry fit the panels, and that when I found the issues.
For example, the side panels, even having "notches" to align with the chassis, did not lined up with the end of the chassis.. Same for rear panel.
Anyhow, sorted now and moving ahead
 
Ordnance completed.. Will add some weathering when mounted on vehicle
Man that looks GREAT!

Making me want to pull mine out and get to work. Still struggling to decide if I want to detail out the engine or not. Guess there's plenty more to work on until I make up my dang mind though.
 

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