"Century Series" #1 "The Hun" 1/48 from Trumpeter

[Jakko]

View attachment 147818

(sorry IT joke)

Appropriate, though I don't generally do "test models" or things like that — I just go for the real thing, and if I screw up … well, there's usually ways to fix it, and in the worst case, you can always repaint from the beginning.

OTOH, much of this is probably down to experience. At some point you pretty much know that the thing you're going to try for the first time will probably work as you have in mind, and if not, you'll have a good idea of how you can fix it.

 

[BarleyBop]

experience

...if they could only bottle that!

 

[Littlemarten]

and if not, you'll have a good idea of how you can fix it.

I think I already said that mastery of this hobby consists of the ability to fix your own screw-ups as if they never happened—but it bears repeating.

 

[Jakko]

There's quite a bit of truth in both of those remarks, I think

 

[Edbert]

Most of the Zinc Chromate will be cleared after the white portion is finished, this is just a color-coat, and the fuselage halves are not glued, many of those parts go in between the halves anyway.


Wings resting overnight in the jig, for alignment reasons only.


I think the above photo shows the strange surface textures. While not the root cause of my earlier trouble, they did make it harder, and ultimately helped me make the decision to go with an SEA paintjob.


White undercoat started. Since I did no pre-shading, I started with pure white and will add color later. Thinking I should clear 1st, in case I want a re-do. Ego says push forward, but I've learned not to always listen to that narcissist, he gets crazy sometimes.

Will let this sit for ~24h before I molest it, sometimes I make up my mind while sleeping

 

[Steve Ski]

I think I already said that mastery of this hobby consists of the ability to fix your own screw-ups as if they never happened—but it bears repeating.

Hey, that's the sign of a good carpenter, hiding his own mistakes. You sure we ain't related, Marten?

Edbert, excellent birdy choice, I love this puppy! The heat intensity in the aft fuselage is wild, wow!

 

[Littlemarten]

Hey, that's the sign of a good carpenter, hiding his own mistakes. You sure we ain't related, Marten?

I do all my own carpentry, too.

 

[Steve Ski]

I do all my own carpentry, too.

Lol, me too! Ok, as time goes on, we're gonna find a few more things, Ruck On!

 

[Edbert]

This document was authored by a member of my local IPMS chapter, you might find it useful to the discussion of metallic paints.



It might explain my issue early in this thread, first time using Vallejo metals, and I did see pooling and poor adhesion, but I also did not use a flat primer.

 

[Edbert]

My Hun has been post-shaded on the white lower surfaces. I clear coated it with X-22 yesterday evening, so I want to wait at least 36h before putting masking tape on it.

Plan is to not paint the 3-color SEA camo next. I want to mask and paint the 4 to 6 shades of metallics, burnt bronze to steel and some silver, then some blue, orange, and maybe a touch of yellow on top. I think when I am happy with that I'll gloss clear it with LP-9, using the lacquer should seal that work from the XF colors I'll be over spraying it with. I will probably cover it completely since the metal colors coming through will have to be done by rubbing away the XF paints, and from my experience LP-9 is rock hard, at least as far as paints go.

See anything wrong with that plan?

 

[Edbert]

Here it is before the clear.



Note I stopped with the shading on the rear fuselage, it will be covered with the next step anyway. Wondering how to treat that area and think I'll have to put white back on top, no other way to do it right.

 

[Littlemarten]

This document was authored by a member of my local IPMS chapter, you might find it useful to the discussion of metallic paints.

View attachment 148325

It might explain my issue early in this thread, first time using Vallejo metals, and I did see pooling and poor adhesion, but I also did not use a flat primer.

I love the Vallejo Metal Color line. If you want good results, you have to follow their process: their gloss black primer first. Once cured, apply the paint in light coats. Never had problems with running or pooling.

ALL glossy finish metallic paints dry slower than nonmetallic paint—they must because of the nature of the metallic pigment, which is comprised of microscopic flakes. To form a coating that looks like smooth metal, these pigment particles have to be able to orient themselves parallel to the surface. This takes time. Metallic paints are the most difficult to formulate, produce, and apply. For the last, they require a distinctly different skill set than nonmetallic paint.

 

[Edbert]

I love the Vallejo Metal Color line. If you want good results, you have to follow their process: their gloss black primer first.

Key word being "their" in that sentence (assumed), so with that in mind (thank you!) I decided not to paint the heat-damaged area with X/XF-1 as my base and put the Vallejo Metal on that.

Brought out the LP-11 for the initial silver, started painting it with vertical variations, decided to make the bottom silver solid and work the others in vertically.




It was a busy day of spraying!

It is interesting to see the different color/sheen of LP-11 versus AK-Extreme Aluminum on the same kit though. Used the same silver on the Ki-61.

 

[Edbert]

Had this kit back in the closet waiting for new paints to come in. My LHS does not carry this brand, one is a chain and one is tiny. I bet "Lionheart" would have it but that is an hour + away.

Anyway, this picture represents three shades of metallics, a white base as shown before, plus a warm dark and a cold dark added for depth.


Then I added some very thin (80-90% thinner) Tamiya X, both clear orange and clear blue blue.



My intent is to seal this with a heavy dose of X-22 prior to adding the SEA camo colors. I want to literally wear the color out in several places to simulate the heat burning it off as I showed on page 1. I suspect significant pressure/friction being needed and do not want to damage the metallics.

I could do the clear with LP-9, some concern of what it will do to the metal colors, but would be impervious to water soaked Q-tips where X-22 will not.

What about the floor polish thing? I bought some but am afraid to test in production so to speak.

Anyone have a suggestion?

 

[Edbert]

I thought it an interesting accident, but the two 1/48 jets I am working on represent the USA's first ever and most recent supersonic combat aircraft.

 

[Littlemarten]

What about the floor polish thing? I bought some but am afraid to test in production so to speak.

Precisely which floor polish?

 

[Edbert]

Precisely which floor polish?

I do not recall who recommended this, but it is what I have.

 

[Littlemarten]

I do not recall who recommended this, but it is what I have.

View attachment 149333

That's what I use (you may be remembering my recommendation?)

I rarely test "in production." Too much time and effort at stake. I always test a new product on scrap or a paint hulk first. That said, this stuff has performed well every time I've tried it. It levels so well I only apply it with a large brush.

Any gloss coat will change the appearance of underlying metallic coats, because it's a gloss, and it will change light transmission and reflection. That said, this produces the thinnest clear coat I have ever seen, even when applying with a brush. It does NOT behave like the old Future from J & J (or any other gloss coat I've tried), so I strongly recommend you experiment with it on a paint hulk or scrap.

 

[plastickjunkie]

Any gloss coat will change the appearance of underlying metallic coats, because it's a gloss, and it will change light transmission and reflection.

Partially true. Gauzy Shine Enhancer from AK is the only clear that will not affect the metallic effect that other clears do. The Alclad on my F84 was unaffected.

 

[Edbert]

That's what I use (you may be remembering my recommendation?)

Very possible!

That said, this stuff has performed well every time I've tried it. It levels so well I only apply it with a large brush.

I tested that method on those F-35i wheel wells, a largish flat brush, felt weird doing that but as you said it came out fine.

Any gloss coat will change the appearance of underlying metallic coats, because it's a gloss, and it will change light transmission and reflection. That said, this produces the thinnest clear coat I have ever seen, even when applying with a brush.

My #1 concern and goal is to protect the metal when I wear down the XF color-coat. Which means I've already decided against X-22, that works well at resisting oil/enamel washes but to rub away the XF would damage the X-22.

So now I am thinking I'll do LP-9, I used it to produce a high-gloss on a racecar and it seemed very durable while wet sanding. I know water and probably weak alcohol (if I need to get stronger with the wearing down) will not hurt it.

The Alclad on my F84 was unaffected.

She's beautiful!