"Century Series" #5 1/48 HobbyBoss F-105 Thundercheif (Thud)

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Edbert

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May 16, 2024
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Go away NSA, nothing to see here, these are for my toy airplane.

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I'll need to touch up the yellow part, I put the O-rings on before the paint was dry enough. Getting used to Tamiya acrylics, but the yellow is MM enamels which take a while.
 
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I thought I was being all smart with the blu-tack masking the wheel wells. That stuff is not easy to get out as I expected!

Typically I'd use tape and foam as I did on the nose-wheel. But these are wide and shallow, no good way to use either. Maybe liquid-mask is a better idea, or just paint them after the underside is done.
 
I thought I was being all smart with the blu-tack masking the wheel wells. That stuff is not easy to get out as I expected!
You can get it out by dabbing a blob of Blu-Tack on it and pulling it away again. Repeat until all of it's gone.
 
This kit might have been a breakthrough for me, I'm excited that I may have a solution to my problem with enamel washes eating my acrylic clearcoats.

My limited understanding of acrylic paints had me thinking they were impervious to turpentine. But if I used Mr. Color leveling thinners that proved untrue. I switched to AK brand thinner for the AK acrylic clear varnish and that did not help.

But I just tried using Tamiya gloss acrylic (X-whatever number) and X20A thinner. I think it is holding up!

I take this to mean that "AK acrylic" is an enamel, oil based, or lacquer paint. So I will use what I have up for things that will not have any washes or panel lining work done with oils or enamel, then never buy it again.
 
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Well...thanks for the help...

Three color camo applied, will clear coat it too tonight, maybe tomorrow.

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In the background...I never realized that the inner set of road wheels on a Panther had thin strips of rubber and only the outer wheels had the more normal thick layer.
 
I'd wondered about the underpainting... I've seen some on here with mask sets, or is it pretty safe to just follow panel lines as it is a subtle effect?
The only time I've seen masks used for panel lines is on Stealth aricraft. That is because RAM tape is used to cover those lines, it sorta becomes the new panel line.

What I did here is just called pre-shading, and one can control how visible or subtle they are by applying thin color coats and gradually building it up to opacity.
 
I never realized that the inner set of road wheels on a Panther had thin strips of rubber and only the outer wheels had the more normal thick layer.
They don't — the tyres are the same thickness on all of them. However, the inner wheels do have an extra steel flange that the outer ones lack, because that side runs against the track teeth.

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They don't — the tyres are the same thickness on all of them. However, the inner wheels do have an extra steel flange that the outer ones lack, because that side runs against the track teeth.
So I learnt two things!
 
I said I was gonna clear it, but I'm holding off until I can figure out a method I'm happy with. Got plenty of stuff to work on in the mean time.
 
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I take this to mean that "AK acrylic" is an enamel, oil based, or lacquer paint. So I will use what I have up for things that will not have any washes or panel lining work done with oils or enamel, then never buy it again.
No. There are many acrylic polymers. Some are soluble in some organic solvents like turpentine (which is a blend containing both ethyl and methyl alcohols, among other things.) You might have better luck switching to odorless mineral spirits.
 
No. There are many acrylic polymers. Some are soluble in some organic solvents like turpentine (which is a blend containing both ethyl and methyl alcohols, among other things.) You might have better luck switching to odorless mineral spirits.
That is on my list for testing. Thank you!

I considered linseed oil, from my time spent as a "oil painter", but I dread the idea of a 2-week dry time :-)

Thanks again for offering constructive comments, some people (no names, but scroll up) are just toxic with their negativity.
 
This kit is a good/bad situation all the way through.

My 1st ever Hobby Boss purchase.

Casting was above average, as was fit.

Major details just missing, cockpit sides left a huge gap with nothing there, same for the intakes, just a big hole into the middle of the fuselage.

Some of the best news I've has since returning to the hobby happened with this build though. I have solved my issue with washes eating through the clear coats! That alone is worth the cost of the kit and any aggravations it caused.

But, I do think it is the last I'll ever buy from Hobby Boss, this is almost a death blow.

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The stickers practically dissolved when hit with water, less than 10 seconds and this ^^^ ?

Now the question is...is the kit worth another $15-25 to find aftermarket stickers for? It is going to the closet-shelf-of-shame for now while I decide.
 
More on the stickers...

I think I might have caused the issue with them shriveling up in a few seconds of water. I was using warm water, guessing in the 120 degree range, a hot bath if you will. They are definitely the thinnest most problematic stickers I've used, remember I have limited experience for the last 2.5 decades and these new brands are...new.

So using cool, room temperature water helped immensely, even then I had issues with them curling up on themselves, right off the paper onto the model and the corners curled. I spent more time fighting them than I should have, but was tired of this being on the shame-shelf (think I called it a shame-closet recently) this long, and she's one of my century series collection, so time to power through or "ruck on" :)

Once I had them worked out as best I could all I had to do was put another clear on, I chose a satin instead of flat. Then remove some masks, attach some wheels, glue the canopy in the open position and call her done.

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It is a really large aircraft, I think it was the largest single-seat fighter the USAF ever fields, but if that is true it is only by a small margin. Here it is on the top shelf with two other large kits, and it is noticeably larger than the 2-seater F-4B on the same shelf.

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