Brushing on Tamiya clear coat

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Hey Addicts! So since I'm just getting back into modelling again, I havent been able to get all my Airbrush supplies back and do everything properly like I always had before. So the 2 current models im working on I had to brush on the paint, except for the clear which I had in a can. Now my main question is, Is there a certain way to brush on the clear coat for the entire aircrafts without having the paint run from being brushed? For fhe record, I used tamiya base coat, tamiya XF paints for brushing and have Tamiya ckear coat for the final stage. If anyone could give me some insight so I don't ruin all the time I spent brushing I would greatly appreciate it!!

Thank you all and look forward to your responses!

MilitaryModeler1991

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Tamiya rattlecan clears if you're impatient. I never hand brush clearcoats due to brush marks. Although some folks had success doing so.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

I've had OK success with brushing on Tamiya X-22 clear. My humble tips would be to mix in some X-20A thinner almost 1:1. I found it's best to move quickly and apply a real lite coat over the entire model in one go if you can. The key is to not brush over any wet spots trying to even it out because it becomes tacky quit fast. It will self level as it dries. Resist the temptation to recoat if possible.

*I reserve the right to deny any and all advice that leads to disaster.

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

I have finished brushing on all the colour paint and am about to put on the decals. Should I let the colour paint cure for 24-48 hours after I do the decals before I attempt to do the clear coating?

I've had OK success with brushing on Tamiya X-22 clear. My humble tips would be to mix in some X-20A thinner almost 1:1. I found it's best to move quickly and apply a real lite coat over the entire model in one go if you can. The key is to not brush over any wet spots trying to even it out because it becomes tacky quit fast. It will self level as it dries. Resist the temptation to recoat if possible.

*I reserve the right to deny any and all advice that leads to disaster.

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Thats what i was thinking was using the rattle cans . But the hobby store around me has very little in terms of actual modeling painting supplies

Tamiya rattlecan clears if you're impatient. I never hand brush clearcoats due to brush marks. Although some folks had success doing so.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

I would do a clear coat before decals. Yes, let the color coat set for a day or so. Some modelers will bock at the use of this product because it's for floors, but IMO this stuff works petty well for a brush on clear coat.

 

[Jim62]

I would do a clear coat before decals. Yes, let the color coat set for a day or so. Some modelers will bock at the use of this product because it's for floors, but IMO this stuff works petty well for a brush on clear coat.
View attachment 115984

Sprays well too.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

Sprays well too.

Yes. Sadly, I am also one who is in dire need of an airbrush set-up so I've not tried to spray it.

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Yes. Sadly, I am also one who is in dire need of an airbrush set-up so I've not tried to spray it.

I used to have a full airbrush kit setup but had to sell it all to downsize when I moved. Im slowly getting everything back to my normal setup the way I had it before

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Thats what i was thinking was using the rattle cans . But the hobby store around me has very little in terms of actual modeling painting supplies

Who says you have to use hobby store clearcoat in rattlecan. Walmart hardware Rustoleum clear is fine. I've used Rustoleum gloss, flat, and satin clear coat with no issues.

I would do a clear coat before decals. Yes, let the color coat set for a day or so. Some modelers will bock at the use of this product because it's for floors, but IMO this stuff works petty well for a brush on clear coat.
View attachment 115984

Meh… Not a fan of using floor product as a clearcoat. Tend to be tacky is handled too soon. The only time I'll use it is on windsheild of car kit.

You have to be careful which floor product you use. Not all are the same. Besides, Future changed the name of their product. Skip using the floor product as a clearcoat.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

Who says you have to use hobby store clearcoat in rattlecan. Walmart hardware Rustoleum clear is fine. I've used Rustoleum gloss, flat, and satin clear coat with no issues.

What if it is Enamel clear coat over Acrylic top coat? Or, vise versa?

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

What if it is Enamel clear coat over Acrylic top coat? Or, vise versa?

It doesn't matter. I've sprayed enamel clearcoat over acrylics (or vice versa) all the time - be it rattlecan or airbrush.

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Im really stuck with brushing on clear coat right now, my model has been curing the paint for about 3-4 days. Im just asking to see if I brushed on the clear will it ruin the paint?

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Because no matter what I do every time I try to put clean on even when cured for days it pulls it off like paint thinner right down to the plastic

 

[urumomo]

What ?

Which clear were you brushing on that dissolved the paint ?

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

What ?

Which clear were you brushing on that dissolved the paint ?

The Tamiya X22 clear

 

[urumomo]

What are the paint layers in order ?
You say " Tamiya base coat " meaning what ?
How heavy are you applying the X22 ?

 

[urumomo]

I don't use Tamiya paints but I know they contain alcohols .
Can't find a MSDS on the X-22 ,
but here's one for an X-1 : https://trimsds.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/tamiya_acrylic-paint.pdf
43.3% alcohols by volume .
That's certainly enough to dissolve acrylic resins in the color layers if you slather it on .

Use a pure water based clear acrylic if you're going to brush it on , like Vallejo etc .
Or ,
change your technique with the brush application .

Assuming this is the issue .
Need more info from you .

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Clearcoat shouldn't pull paint off. Base coat meaning what?

Are you referring Tamiya "base coat" as TS-101 Base White in rattlecan? If so, that's a lacquer paint, not enamel or acrylic spray paint. And it's not used as a primer.
Either way, it shouldn't have any effect on why your X-22 clear is pulling paint off.

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

I don't use Tamiya paints but I know they contain alcohols .
Can't find a MSDS on the X-22 ,
but here's one for an X-1 : https://trimsds.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/tamiya_acrylic-paint.pdf
43.3% alcohols by volume .
That's certainly enough to dissolve acrylic resins in the color layers if you slather it on .

Use a pure water based clear acrylic if you're going to brush it on , like Vallejo etc .
Or ,
change your technique with the brush application .

Assuming this is the issue .
Need more info from you .

I used the Mr Hobby Mr white surfacer 1000, let that dry for 26 hours, then I did XF-62 (olive drab) mixed with a bit of XF-2 (flat white) and a touch of XF-60 (dark yellow) to make a custom Olive drab that I then brushed on in thin coats, let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. And one final coat to even out the whole thing and then let it fully cure for 4 days. And as for the X-22 clear coat. I put it on thin and spread and it still pulled off the paint down to the plastic. It even pulled off the surfacer primer

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Clearcoat shouldn't pull paint off. Base coat meaning what?

Are you referring Tamiya "base coat" as TS-101 Base White in rattlecan? If so, that's a lacquer paint, not enamel or acrylic spray paint. And it's not used as a primer.
Either way, it shouldn't have any effect on why your X-22 clear is pulling paint off.

No I used the Mr. Hobby surfacer 1000, them the XF paint the X22 clear is pulling all that off. Should I maybe try and take a bit of X-22 and water it down 30% to see if that works any better?

 

[urumomo]

I used the Mr Hobby Mr white surfacer 1000, let that dry for 26 hours, then I did XF-62 (olive drab) mixed with a bit of XF-2 (flat white) and a touch of XF-60 (dark yellow) to make a custom Olive drab that I then brushed on in thin coats, let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. And one final coat to even out the whole thing and then let it fully cure for 4 days. And as for the X-22 clear coat. I put it on thin and spread and it still pulled off the paint down to the plastic. It even pulled off the surfacer primer

IDK , man .
That shouldn't be happening .
I searched the web to see if this is a thing and found nothing .
Are you thinning the X-22 and if so , with what ?

What was the kit this last happened with ?

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

IDK , man .
That shouldn't be happening .
I searched the web to see if this is a thing and found nothing .
Are you thinning the X-22 and if so , with what ?

What was the kit this last happened with ?

No i didnt thin it at all, its happening on the Tamiya De Havilland mosquito, as you can see from the photo this was a small area I did to test and you can see the paint striped right off

 

[urumomo]

Is that plastic or the surfacer 1000 showing thru ?

That happened instantly ? or after repeated brushing ?

 

[the Baron]

When you say "brushing", are you airbrushing or brushing by hand?

I second Momo's question about what you're using to thin the Tamiya X-22. I'll include in that question any other Tamiya acrylic colors you're using.

I use Tamiya's acrylics all the time, and apply them by hand as well as airbrushing. I get my best results using Tamiya's proprietary thinner for their acrylics. I know others may use other solutions, like isopropyl, but none of the others worked as well for me, as Tamiya's proprietary thinner. The only exception is using lacquer thinner for airbrushing Tamiya acrylic paints. That thins the paint well, and it enhances the matte finish of matte colors, but not enough for me to use in place of Tamiya's own thinner.

The picture you posted of your Mosquito reminds me of how Tamiya's acrylics worked for me when brushing by hand and before I learned to thin the paint. Before that, I'd lay down one coat, let it dry, then try to apply a second coat. I found that often, the second coat would pull up the first coat. The effect varied from color to color, which I put down to the chemical composition of the pigments. Black and white were the worst colors for this. When I started airbrushing regularly, I always thinned the Tamiya acrylics, and that's when it hit me to do it for hand-brushing.

 

[urumomo]

When you say "brushing", are you airbrushing or brushing by hand?

I second Momo's question about what you're using to thin the Tamiya X-22. I'll include in that question any other Tamiya acrylic colors you're using.

I use Tamiya's acrylics all the time, and apply them by hand as well as airbrushing. I get my best results using Tamiya's proprietary thinner for their acrylics. I know others may use other solutions, like isopropyl, but none of the others worked as well for me, as Tamiya's proprietary thinner. The only exception is using lacquer thinner for airbrushing Tamiya acrylic paints. That thins the paint well, and it enhances the matte finish of matte colors, but not enough for me to use in place of Tamiya's own thinner.

The picture you posted of your Mosquito reminds me of how Tamiya's acrylics worked for me when brushing by hand and before I learned to thin the paint. Before that, I'd lay down one coat, let it dry, then try to apply a second coat. I found that often, the second coat would pull up the first coat. The effect varied from color to color, which I put down to the chemical composition of the pigments. Black and white were the worst colors for this. When I started airbrushing regularly, I always thinned the Tamiya acrylics, and that's when it hit me to do it for hand-brushing.

He says on page 1 : " I used the Mr Hobby Mr white surfacer 1000, let that dry for 26 hours, then I did XF-62 (olive drab) mixed with a bit of XF-2 (flat white) and a touch of XF-60 (dark yellow) to make a custom Olive drab that I then brushed on in thin coats, let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. And one final coat to even out the whole thing and then let it fully cure for 4 days. And as for the X-22 clear coat. I put it on thin and spread and it still pulled off the paint down to the plastic. It even pulled off the surfacer primer "

He doesn't have an airbrush .

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Is that plastic or the surfacer 1000 showing thru ?

That happened instantly ? or after repeated brushing ?

It happened instantly with 1 brush stroke

 

[MilitaryModeler1991]

Like this is really starting to annoy me. So basically I think next time im at a hobby shop im gonna stock up on as many spray cans of clear and paint as I can, and use the brushing for small parts and intricate detailing

 

[urumomo]

We need to find out what the issue is .
This shouldn't be happening but it is .

we are talking about this stuff , right ? :

 

[the Baron]

He says on page 1 : " I used the Mr Hobby Mr white surfacer 1000, let that dry for 26 hours, then I did XF-62 (olive drab) mixed with a bit of XF-2 (flat white) and a touch of XF-60 (dark yellow) to make a custom Olive drab that I then brushed on in thin coats, let each coat dry for at least 24 hours. And one final coat to even out the whole thing and then let it fully cure for 4 days. And as for the X-22 clear coat. I put it on thin and spread and it still pulled off the paint down to the plastic. It even pulled off the surfacer primer "

He doesn't have an airbrush .

Thanks, Momo! The Internet has ruined my reading comprehension; I went right past that.

Then I stand by the advice to thin the Tamiya products with Tamiya's proprietary thinner. That's what I do. When I paint figures and use Tamiya acrylic colors, I paint them on by hand. And I always thin them with Tamiya's X-20A. I have no problems, whether like this one, or any other, when I use their thinner.