ZM F-4E Early Phantom ll

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Most of the time I feel disappointed and bummed that my build didn't turn out as well as I hoped.
It's up to you, but the criteria I use is: Did I do a better job, or at least as good, as the previous build? If so, I'm happy. If it didn't turn out well, but I learned something, I'm at least not unhappy.

Most of the pleasure I get from scale modeling comes from the process. If the result is good, that's a bonus.
 
Working on the infamous tail feathers of the F4. Started off with the All-Clad gloss black primer. Man, I love this stuff it really does spray good but cleaning it out of my airbrush sometimes can frustrate you. I clean my airbrush with lacquer thinner and all the other all clads it loves it. Cleans it right out. But that gloss black primer does not like playing fairly on the playground. And you got to let that gloss black dry at least a day or two. So I put down a coat of all clad Steel followed by different stuff like dark aluminum and pale burnt metal and jet engine smoke. Those engine nozzles are just on there half-assed.
 

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What does Alclad recommend for cleaning it?
Probably their proprietary. But it's a lacquer thinner so I clean it with lacquer thinner. Lacquer thinner does clean it but it's like a little tiny portion of whatever they put in the glossy black primer congeals. Not all of it. It doesn't turn into a Gloppy mess like Snot. But it's like a tiny portion of it turns into snot or something like that that kind of smears on The metal. Weird. And only the glossy black primer does it
 
Man that looks fantastic. I just started masking that section of my F-4 build. It won't be looking as great as yours though!
 
Man that looks fantastic. I just started masking that section of my F-4 build. It won't be looking as great as yours though!
Thank you. It's fun messing with these metallic paints. I was just thinking is that too much before I even start weathering it? Or too little? Because I'll probably add more smoke down the road
 
And you got to let that gloss black dry at least a day or two
I was saying a few months ago that the Alclad gloss black primer can take weeks to fully harden. That was my experience having thinned it slightly using Alclad thinner.

A member of my local club said to try it without any thinner and it hardened in a day, I let it sit another day just to be sure. I'm not sure why I added thinner, guessing it is (was) just a habit. But I can say...DON'T.
 
Taking my time. I can only work on it about an hour and then I just got to go do something else. I can see why some people don't put them on. It can get frustrating. You get the tiny decal on just right and you roll the Q-tip on it and it comes out perfect! Woohoo.! And then 3 minutes go by as you put on another decal and you go look at the one you just put on and it's crooked. Ah man. What the hell? Then frustration sets in and you have to take a break. 225 to go on the plane alone. I haven't even done the missiles. Union break is over
 

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Taking my time. I can only work on it about an hour and then I just got to go do something else. I can see why some people don't put them on. It can get frustrating. You get the tiny decal on just right and you roll the Q-tip on it and it comes out perfect! Woohoo.! And then 3 minutes go by as you put on another decal and you go look at the one you just put on and it's crooked. Ah man. What the hell? Then frustration sets in and you have to take a break. 225 to go on the plane alone. I haven't even done the missiles. Union break is over
What gloss coat are you using under them? I use Quick Shine™ (the replacement for the old Future). Then I use the technique pioneered by Paul Boyer of putting the same thing over the decal, blotting the excess (paper towel leaves less lint), and letting it dry a few minutes. Once it turns clear it generally isn't possible to move the decal. Also, work on one end, then switch to the other end to give things a better chance to set before you have to handle them again.
 
What gloss coat are you using under them? I use Quick Shine™ (the replacement for the old Future). Then I use the technique pioneered by Paul Boyer of putting the same thing over the decal, blotting the excess (paper towel leaves less lint), and letting it dry a few minutes. Once it turns clear it generally isn't possible to move the decal. Also, work on one end, then switch to the other end to give things a better chance to set before you have to handle them again.
I generally use Tamia ts-13 out of a can. Gloss clear. So I gloss over the paint job then I add decals one whole side at a time. I'm almost done with the bottom wing tips probably about 20 more details to put on and then I'll wait a little bit and gloss clear with ts-13 again. A nice good coat so I can basically use anything I want to paint stuff up or weather or panel line. After I get all that done then I give it a spray of either semi-gloss or flat clear. All my paints are basically lacquer based so I really don't know about using something like future.
 
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