Z-M. P-51 D

[Rockin' Rob]

Sounds easy enough. I'll try anything once. Almost anything.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Steady As She Goes. But I'll tell you, the Seas a while back got a little choppy. I had to almost completely tear apart the engine and supports because something just wasn't working out and it all begins at the foundation, right? But I test fit and then test fit more and what I usually end up doing is sanding off the paint. Super tight tolerances but man is it fun to build. When you finally work at it and the parts start clicking in it makes a very substantial and nice looking build. Good and sturdy. Right now I am test fitting the engine cowling frame which I am going to paint the aluminum color instead of zinc chromate. I decided to have the engine show because you have a choice. Engine shroud on or off. You can't have the engine shroud frame on and put on the engine shroud the instructions say it doesn't work. So test fitting the frame to make sure it fits and everything will go on smoothly. Then I'll take it off and paint it up and put it back on and glue it. And you don't know how many times I told myself why the heck are you painting all that stuff that you won't really see? I told myself I would leave some panels off on the airframe so you can see your work but it just doesn't work out that way when you get into the build and start actually doing it. And yes, it would go together a lot easier if you would just build it and then paint it but that's not fun is it? I like building and I love the P-51. It's just a badass plane. When I flew RC I had a Great Planes .40 size P-51 with a OS 50 on it. That was fun to build but very unforgiving to fly. The CG has to be just right

 

[sixtime]

 

[mustang1989]

Now THAT'S quite the difference there with that Metallic look Rob. I've still got a jar of Model Masters Metalizer that works perfect for this. Some of the newer Vallejo Metalizer Acrylic paints work well too.
That must indeed be some tight tolerances if paint is affecting the fit. She's building up quite nicely with a LOT of details.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Now THAT'S quite the difference there with that Metallic look Rob. I've still got a jar of Model Masters Metalizer that works perfect for this. Some of the newer Vallejo Metalizer Acrylic paints work well too.
That must indeed be some tight tolerances if paint is affecting the fit. She's building up quite nicely with a LOT of details.

Yes, big difference. If I remember correctly, I broke my leg washing my dog about hell I don't know, 30 years ago? Laid up for a bit so I did what People Like Us do. I built a couple models as a kid so let's go see what's up at the hobby store. I can't remember what model I built but I do remember model Master had a line of paint for aluminum and steel and stuff. Most of that stuff you had to buff and then seal it. And some of it was airbrush only. So I bought about 15 bottles of different stuff thinking, heck, even if I brush it on it'll look great. It doesn't. Not at all. So all of the bottles went on the back Shelf and of course a lot of the labels came off and now I'm left with a bunch of model master probably really cool paint? But I don't know what the hell it is. It's going to take a box of plastic spoons and a whole day to find out what each bottle holds.

 

[mustang1989]

Funny back story and I remember days like that as well where I'd just pick a model and build it. The metalizer paint I have is the buffable kind and when shot through an airbrush, goes on as smooth as silk. Never thought of brushing it on but I'm not surprised to hear that it doesn't look good when brushed on so it's probably good that I never tried it out. lol

 

[Edbert]

the checkerboards are decals.

I thought about painting the checkerboard pattern on.

I plan to try it on a 1/48 Jug in my on-deck stack. Might well regret it, but I've been hating stickers lately, particularly large ones.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Bit more done.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Body is together kind of. Going to start on the wings next.

 

[Edbert]

Lookin' good!

 

[mustang1989]

Man........just loogathat detail. This thing is just packed with details. WOW!!!

Will be watching for the next update on this beauty.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Yes. Detailed and pay attention to the instructions. Read the whole darn page. If it doesn't fit right or you do something wrong it's because you didn't read the instructions. ZM has very detailed instructions and sometimes in an obscure corner of the page is an asterisk or an exclamation point that you missed cuz you're a fool and think you know how to build it. Like me. I got humbled. So I decided to build the wing as much as I could before I threw any paint on it. Better glue joints. Painting is going to be a hassle but sometimes it's easier to get things glued on nice and sturdy and worry about painting it later.

 

[kevin]

I love how the ammunition belts for the 50s are included with the kit. Too bad they won't be seen. Are you going to paint them up anyway?
For some some strange reason I found myself painting and weathering parts of a couple full interior armour builds I did..... knowing no one will ever see the work.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

I love how the ammunition belts for the 50s are included with the kit. Too bad they won't be seen. Are you going to paint them up anyway?
For some some strange reason I found myself painting and weathering parts of a couple full interior armour builds I did..... knowing no one will ever see the work.

I know those 50s are cool. I'm thinking it's going to be parked with access hatches open on the 50s. It should be pretty easy to paint those up and in hindsight I probably should have painted at least some of the spars, especially in the wheel wells. Now I have to paint the spars green and the sheet metal skin silver which is the way I think they had it. I could spray the whole wheel well chromate green but I think they only did that on Restorations. I'm pretty sure towards the end they were cranking them out

 

[Edbert]

If it doesn't fit right or you do something wrong

If it doesn't fit, you have done something wrong .

Too bad they won't be seen.

So much of their kits will never be seen, inside the engine block are pistons too, seriously!

 

[Edbert]

I'm thinking it's going to be parked with access hatches open on the 50s.

I did that on the Z-M J2M2 I built too. The panels can be put in place, but I'm not gluing them.

 

[mustang1989]

I know those 50s are cool. I'm thinking it's going to be parked with access hatches open on the 50s. It should be pretty easy to paint those up and in hindsight I probably should have painted at least some of the spars, especially in the wheel wells. Now I have to paint the spars green and the sheet metal skin silver which is the way I think they had it. I could spray the whole wheel well chromate green but I think they only did that on Restorations. I'm pretty sure towards the end they were cranking them out

With that amount of detail in there I'd be doing exactly what you plan on doing by displaying the panels open. I've got an Eduard F6F Hellcat with a Wolfpack wing fold kit that I've been eyeballin' for just that reason on the unfolded wing panel .50 ammo belt panel.

Keep the good updates comin' bud.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Doing the paintbrush Boogie Woogie. Not even close to being done. Just having some fun and going to try something new. The silver sheet metal behind the machine guns? How to paint? I think I'm going to put some silver in a squeeze bottle with a CA flexible tip on the end and put a drop or two down in the bay and hopefully it'll spread out?

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Test fit the wings to the body. The fit is awesome.

 

[kevin]

That is looking pretty sweet, nice work so far.........

 

[BarleyBop]

...second that!

 

[Pantherman]

Test fit the wings to the body. The fit is awesome.

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That's a seriously nice build. Pantherman

 

[Rockin' Rob]

That is looking pretty sweet, nice work so far.........

Thank you

 

[Rockin' Rob]

That's a seriously nice build. Pantherman

Thank you. I appreciate that because yours are too

 

[mustang1989]

You're sure makin' those details "pop" pretty loud Rob. This is looking good..........really good.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

You're sure makin' those details "pop" pretty loud Rob. This is looking good..........really good. View attachment 166306

Thank you. I'm actually having a blast with this new All-Clad paint. Wait a minute. I mean it's new to me. Remember. I'm fairly new to airbrushing so trying this stuff versus a spray can is just great fun. And another thing that's great about spraying right now is I have to do it out back under the patio which is fine with me because the weather is absolutely gorgeous. Went to Andy's the other day and he had stocked up on his All-Clad metal paint so I got several varieties that I can try on panels here and there on the body to kind of mix it up. You have to be patient with this All-Clad metal paint. Slow and steady. If you try to paint it like paint? It ain't going to work. It takes a while but I think it's well worth it.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

I'm at the point where you're priming and painting all the little stuff that gets stuck on the plane. Wings painted with LP 11. The red on the spinner is LP 21 Italian red

 

[mustang1989]

Your progress is looking pretty dang snazzy so far. Yup......that Alclad goes on like a dream alright as your results clearly show. Good progress man.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Yes. I am really liking this all clad. The key is preparation. Any little blemish is going to show up. I put a coat of Tamia gray primer on first and then sanded that with 2000 Grit. I then put on a coat of the gloss black primer all clad and it says to wait half an hour and then another coat. Well during that time a damn hair floated up and stuck on the body and that was a p i m a. So I put on another coat and I think I will let this dry overnight and give it another very light sanding just to smooth it out and then I'm going to spray one more coat of gloss black and then on to the polished aluminum.

 

[Edbert]

Yes. I am really liking this all clad.

You're not wrong.

I sprayed this P-47 on Friday with gloss black primer (alclad) and let it dry for about 48 hours in my closet. Before leaving on a 2-day business trip I hit it with two thin coats of silver, and I think it is too shiny!

I'm not too worried (yet) I have other silvers that I'll try to tone it down with. Just supporting what you say about how smooth that stuff is.