Sonic Cleaner - Question

Well I tried it tonight with windex and water, and did two 8 min cycles. Pulled out the parts and there was still grey Vallejo primer lodged in a few places. Is this to be expected?
 
I think that is the same USC that I have, works great.

Ian, like I said, I have only used Windex straight from the bottle, 2-3 8min. cycles and the airbrushes are like new.

I wouldn't worry much about using too much Windex, pour it back into the bottle, and use it again next time, it still has alot of cleaning properties left in it, just don't dump the used Windex back into the bottle that your wife uses to clean the windows! LOL

I do use the basket in mine however, saves me from having to fish parts out of the USC, as they just come out in the basket.
 
After it dried and I reassembled, it did seem more responsive when spraying this evening. I'm sure it's getting off stuff I can't even see.

Tamiya paints also seem to clean easier than the Vallejo primer I've been using, and I've now swapped Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for 91% Alcohol when cleaning the airbrush between colors.
 
I use mine all the time for stipping chrome parts, removing failed paint jobs quicky, cleaning airbrushes etc.
I use 'simple green' and it has removed everything except a gluebomb that someone had done with nailpolish.
Enamels, clearcoats etc will take a bit longer but its something I would not give up.
 
Do not use lacquer thinner or acetone in an ultrasonic cleaner. It's a fire and explosion risk.
 
After reading the post and looking online, I also ordered the same ;D

Ian you should be getting a commision on them :D ;D
 
Nice! :) I was surprised at how small it was but the airbrush in pieces fit just fine.
 
Elm City Hobbies said:
I wouldn't worry much about using too much Windex, pour it back into the bottle, and use it again next time, it still has alot of cleaning properties left in it, just don't dump the used Windex back into the bottle that your wife uses to clean the windows! LOL

Oops.
Ian ammonia/Windex is not going to do a thing to the primer in your airbrush so your better off wiping it down with a paper towel dampened with lacquer thinner to help remove the residual primer. Once you've wiped that off then your ready for the USC. At least that's what I do after shooting primer.
 
Good to know. I had been cleaning with 91% alcohol for Tamiya paints, but that doesn't seem to shift the primer either.
 
The one issue I have with the model I ordered is emptying the liquid out. A little tends to pour down the front side of the unit. Are others having the same issues with the more oval-shaped devices?
 
I usually pour mine back into the bottle via a funnel, try to pour it out of a corner, not that there is actually a corner on an oval! LOL! But at least one of the ends. Doesn't seem to be too bad to slop it around if you are careful.
 
Gents FYI I have been using windex for years and swear by it! in regards to ultra sonic's instead try Windsor&Newton brush cleaner,this stuff is non-toxic and works quickly on all paints! even crusty old dried paint.Best part of all is if stored in an airtight container this stuff never loses it's bite.
 
When leaning the cleaner, dump the fluid into a Tuperware or similar plastic container all at once so you don't spill it all over your machine.
It's easier to transfer the fluids back to a bottle this way.
 
Elm City Hobbies said:
I don't think your airbrush is in Windex long enough to do any damage to the seals. Most of the time mine go through 2, 8 min cycles, and that is it. I don't let them soak in the Windex any more than that.

Been using mine for a few years, and hasn't harmed the seals. There is so little ammonia in Windex that I don't think there would be any harm.

Now if you were using straight ammonia, might be another thing. Then again, buy a bottle of Acrylic cleaner, like Vallejo's AB cleaner, and just use that bottle for your sonic cleaner. When done, pour it back in the bottle, and use it again next time. If you are worried about sediment in it, run it through a coffee filter first.

Didnt Ken from Badger in his video he put on here sometime ago say that Windex should never touch an airbrush ? Also the only time you should do a full tear down is if you have a specific problem or it has sat without being used for a longer period of time ? I never got the UC because of that but if its beneficial to the airbrush and daily care then Im all for it and all in.
 
re changing liquids, remember that you have pebably added osme toxic chemicals to the mix so dont just tip it down the sink/stormwater especially if you are cleaning enamels/laquers.
I scoop mine out with small jam (jelly to those of you in nth america :)) and the last parts i get with a large platic syringe.
If you leave it in a jar/bottle the solids should settle nicely to the bottom so you can reuse the liquid from the top, or pour it through a coffee filter to strain out all the bits and it will do you some more cleaning runs.
And as mentioned, any flamable cleaners should be used with caution as the cleaners can heat up liquids, probably not enough to be a serious risk but you dont wanna be the guy who finds out what the limit was.
 
WebbyNZ said:
re changing liquids, remember that you have pebably added osme toxic chemicals to the mix so dont just tip it down the sink/stormwater especially if you are cleaning enamels/laquers.
I scoop mine out with small jam (jelly to those of you in nth america :)) and the last parts i get with a large platic syringe.
If you leave it in a jar/bottle the solids should settle nicely to the bottom so you can reuse the liquid from the top, or pour it through a coffee filter to strain out all the bits and it will do you some more cleaning runs.
And as mentioned, any flamable cleaners should be used with caution as the cleaners can heat up liquids, probably not enough to be a serious risk but you dont wanna be the guy who finds out what the limit was.
Too much work to save t and wait for the solids to form.
Takes too long and takes up space.
It's easier to dump and buy more Windex.
 

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