Primer and Paint Compatibility

Neon

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Nov 16, 2022
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Good evening everyone. I couldn't sit back and watch youtube videos any longer - I finally bought my first kit (Mk. A Whippet in 1:35 by Meng) and have been working on it. I finished the build without any major issues, but now I'm setting up to paint and I'm a little unsure about a few things. I airbrushed Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 (black) as the primer and thinned it 1:1 with Mr. Leveling Thinner 400. Everything went fine there. My question is about the next step. I pre-mixed some Tamiya acrylic paints into dropper bottles and thinned each mix with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (orange cap). At the time I had it in my head that I had read somewhere the Tamiya paints mixed with the lacquer thinner was a good combo. The paints look fine in the dropper bottles, just as an aside.

Now I have some fear about spraying the primer with a lacquer-thinned paint. Am I setting myself up for an issue here, or am I just over thinking this business?

I appreciate any advice and/or feedback. Thank you.
 
I've heard of folks using the lacquer thinner with the acrylics, why I don't know, since they make the X20A thinner for the acrylics which works great. Don't know if you'll have an issue but someone will answer that for you. A good idea is to have a paint mule (cheap model to practice techniques on) or some plastic spoons and try it on that first to see what happens.
 
That's all " lacquer acrylic " resin . Both the primer and the Tamiya color coat .
What are you concerned with ?
The solvent removing the primer ?
The solvent will soften and bond the color coat to the primer . Problems would occur only if the reducer ratio ( amount of lacquer thinner ) is too high .

The lacquer thinner will evaporate before it can dissolve the primer coat significantly .

Brush application is trickier since the paint volume during application is higher .
 
That's all " lacquer acrylic " resin . Both the primer and the Tamiya color coat .
What are you concerned with ?
The solvent removing the primer ?
The solvent will soften and bond the color coat to the primer . Problems would occur only if the reducer ratio ( amount of lacquer thinner ) is too high .

The lacquer thinner will evaporate before it can dissolve the primer coat significantly .

Brush application is trickier since the paint volume during application is higher .
Yes, my concern is (or was) the lacquer thinner in the paint causing the primer to soften enough to crack, bleed, or run - just ruin it, generally. I know it’s a small amount through the airbrush, and it dries (evaporates) quickly, but this is my first attempt so it is just unfamiliar territory.

Thank you for the response. I’ll take your reassurance and send the paint today!
 
I've heard of folks using the lacquer thinner with the acrylics, why I don't know, since they make the X20A thinner for the acrylics which works great. Don't know if you'll have an issue but someone will answer that for you. A good idea is to have a paint mule (cheap model to practice techniques on) or some plastic spoons and try it on that first to see what happens.
You're right, I should have hit a spoon when I was doing the primer. I built an old (2002) Tamiya Sherman kit along side the Whippet build and my plan was to use the Sherman as the paint mule, but I only have that one about 90% complete on the build and I just got carried away pushing forward with the Whippet. I've just become a little attached to the Sherman after I've battled through adding all the little details (welds, flame cuts, and other nonsense that doesn't belong on a Sherman) and thought I might just keep it for more than a mule once it's done.
 
Hi Neon,
I suggest you to use vallejo polyurethane primers, they're really great, have wide variety of colors and have good prices in big bottles and can be thinned with distilled or tap water. I've also heard some people directly spray vallejo primers out of bottle, but it's a little bit thick i think.
 
Hi Neon,
I suggest you to use vallejo polyurethane primers, they're really great, have wide variety of colors and have good prices in big bottles and can be thinned with distilled or tap water. I've also heard some people directly spray vallejo primers out of bottle, but it's a little bit thick i think.
I'm a vallejo man myself and use their paints and thinners. Never had a problem.

If it's a new mix I tend to go 60 paint to 40 thinner but with vallejo the paints and primers are not always the same so i always do a test spray to avoid ruining the build. Often adding a bit more thinner until it sprays correctly. It's my way and others may raise an eyebrow at my amature method's.

Best to take all the advice and find your own way. We learn best from our mistakes.
Pantherman
 
Hi Neon,
I suggest you to use vallejo polyurethane primers, they're really great, have wide variety of colors and have good prices in big bottles and can be thinned with distilled or tap water. I've also heard some people directly spray vallejo primers out of bottle, but it's a little bit thick i think.

Vallejo primers aren't even primers. They're actually colors, and you can find them substituted for actual bottled colors in Vallejo paint kits. They have at least 20 colors they call "primers". Really not a good product unfortunately. They don't adhere - at all, and they can't be sanded and will roll up. There are better options for acrylic primers such as Stynylrez.
 
Hi Neon,
I suggest you to use vallejo polyurethane primers, they're really great, have wide variety of colors and have good prices in big bottles and can be thinned with distilled or tap water. I've also heard some people directly spray vallejo primers out of bottle, but it's a little bit thick i think.
Thank you for the recommendation! I'll keep an eye out for them the next time my wife green-lights a trip to the hobby shop.
 
I sent the paint this morning. It turned out great, at least to me, in all my first-model-in-progress experience. Thank you to everyone for sharing your experiences and suggestions. It really helped!


mk-a-whippet-front.jpgmk-a-whippet-left.jpgmk-a-whippit-right.jpg
 
Hi Neon,
I suggest you to use vallejo polyurethane primers, they're really great, have wide variety of colors and have good prices in big bottles and can be thinned with distilled or tap water. I've also heard some people directly spray vallejo primers out of bottle, but it's a little bit thick i think.
Seconded. I use them for everything.
 
Hmmm… my go to primer is Rustoleum 2X paint and primer. But you have to ask yourself this question… Do you really need to prime? Not always. I almost never do except on certain subjects.
 
Hmmm… my go to primer is Rustoleum 2X paint and primer. But you have to ask yourself this question… Do you really need to prime? Not always. I almost never do except on certain subjects.

Hardware store spray can paints can literally melt a plastic model. they’re too “hot”.

Some paints absolutely require primers, and priming is good practice anyway for several reasons including normalizing an entire model surface or spotting defects (inadequately sanded sections, ghost seams, etc) before laying down a color coat.
 
I don’t have the space or venting for spray cans. Lots of people use spray can primer but I find the air brush easier on every level
 
I don’t have the space or venting for spray cans. Lots of people use spray can primer but I find the air brush easier on every level
Why don't you decant? I decant all my aerosol cans. All you need is a straw and an empty bottle and you get pre thinned paint.
 
Why don't you decant? I decant all my aerosol cans. All you need is a straw and an empty bottle and you get pre thinned paint.
I am sure there is a good reason to do this. But if I can get a primer I like (which I can now do with stynylrez) I don’t know why I would buy a spray can of primer and then decant it. And don’t you still have to spray it to decant it? Which means you still need a fume hood.
 

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