How do you apply a clear coat?

[trelane]

When applying a clear coat, do you apply a single layer, let it set for 12-24 hours, then apply another layer? Alternatively, is it better to do a pass, wait 10 minutes, do another pass, etc...?

Thanks!

 

[urumomo]

With acrylic you can recoat after it is dry , which can be minutes .
It can take days to fully cure but it depends on the type of acrylic resin . Whether or not it crosslinks .

You don't need to wait very long between coats , just until the pervious coat is " dry " to the touch .
Thin coats each time .
A food dehydrator works great for speeding up curing of paints .

 

[Jim62]

Just chiming in on what Urumomo said about the food dehydrator. I use one all the time and to me it's a priceless tool. Unless you are doing huge models that may not fit.

 

[trekriffic]

Use Testors Dullcote and Glosscote spray cans all the time over enamels for my clearcoats.
It works well so long as you give the enamels a day or two to fully cure. I use the sniff method - if you can smell the paint, however faint, it's not fully cured yet.
I spray light coats allowing a minute or two between passes. The directions say you can spray additional coats within 3 hours or after 48 hours. Gloss takes longer to cure than matte, with matte sprays I can usually apply the next coat the next day.

 

[CFster]

Start with a thin coat, let it flash dry then a heavy coat. It has to go on heavy *almost to the point of running, otherwise you're going to get no gloss and probably a pebbly finish.

If you want to try the best option next to a 2K, then try Mr. Color GX-100 Super Clear III thinned at LEAST 60% with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. Like 60:40 (thinneraint). Even more, up to 2:1. Do the light and heavy coats, wait a couple minutes, do another heavy coat. To finish it off spray a medium coat of straight Mr. Leveling Thinner, which actually melts down the upper coat for a smoother finish (old auto body painter's trick).

If you're painting an aircraft watch out near the wing roots - any place that traps the spray and causes it to curl around on itself makes for a pebbly finish. Best to spray that area along the fuselage longitudinally.

 

[Belugawrx]

What exactly are you painting clear..?
When I clear gloss a car body I spray a light 'mist' coat,..wait 2 minutes, do another light one,..wait 5 minutes,...then a medium pass, wait 2 min,..then a heavier coat...let it sit 20m minutes and inspect the finish..if there is dust in the paint or uneven coverage, I usually wet sand with 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper. after a day of drying
...then repeat the paint process.
If all looks good..polish it out with your choice of polishing compounds.
I like this set

I know..it takes a little while, but I've had good results this way.
Show us what you are trying to clear

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

What exactly are you painting clear..?
When I clear gloss a car body I spray a light 'mist' coat,..wait 2 minutes, do another light one,..wait 5 minutes,...then a medium pass, wait 2 min,..then a heavier coat...let it sit 20m minutes and inspect the finish..if there is dust in the paint or uneven coverage, I usually wet sand with 1000 grit wet dry sandpaper. after a day of drying
...then repeat the paint process.
If all looks good..polish it out with your choice of polishing compounds.
I like this set
View attachment 99284
I know..it takes a little while, but I've had good results this way.
Show us what you are trying to clear

I purchased the trio of these polishers. The two shown (2,3) are great. I have questions on this one. I've never used a wax or protectant as such. This product comes out like water. I have no idea how to use it.

 

[urumomo]

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

Thanks for these. I was thinking that the #1 was more of a finish/wax. It's more of a cleaner.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

Along this topic, does anyone use wax after final polish?

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Along this topic, does anyone use wax after final polish?

I never use wax on any model kits. I don't see the need for it as long as you have a great shiny gloss shine to it. Some folks do but I think it's an overkill IMO…

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

So, I may have gone a little overboard myself. I am really trying to concentrate on the finish of this build by applying things I've learned. The hardest lesson for me is when to leave good enough alone. Stop me if you heard this one before. Everything up to base coat went good. I used practically an entire can of Mr. Super Clear an was afraid the clear coat was still not heavy/thick enough to cover the seams of paint left from my taping job. So I bought a can of 2K after hearing the praise. That went pretty good however I was unaware the can had a 48 hour shelf life. I used what I could in that time frame and was impressed by the gloss. I SHOULD HAVE LEFT IT ALONE. I was still afraid of the paint bumps along the side of the stripes. So I layered on some Future polish. I don't think the lacquer liked that. It created "creases" in the clear coat.



Will wet sanding save me? I'm scared of wet sanding.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

After 4000 grit wet sand. Do I go grittier?


And how do you deal with the residue that collects in the panel lines? It's a bugger to get out.

 

[BlackSheepTwoOneFour]

Looked like you sprayed way too much clear since you did say you used the whole can of clear. That's a sign of spraying too heavily and too close on your model kit.

My advice is SLOW DOWN !! I rarely use Future as a clearcoat and they will turn yellow over time. They're great for aircraft canopies and fixing windshields blemishes.

It also looked like you sprayed too much Future as well. That's why you're pooling up on certain spots. Too much and too close.

If this 2K you're using is what I think it is, it's not made for hobby use.

If I were you, I'd buy gloss clearcoat from mcwfinishes.com instead.
I've used Rustoleum clear gloss from a rattlecan as well. Spray a few light passes - usually 2 or 3 but DON'T SPRAY TOO CLOSE to your model kit !!!!

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

Looked like you sprayed way too much clear since you did say you used the whole can of clear. That's a sign of spraying too heavily and too close on your model kit.

My advice is SLOW DOWN !! I rarely use Future as a clearcoat and they will turn yellow over time. They're great for aircraft canopies and fixing windshields blemishes.

It also looked like you sprayed too much Future as well. That's why you're pooling up on certain spots. Too much and too close.

If this 2K you're using is what I think it is, it's not made for hobby use.

If I were you, I'd buy gloss clearcoat from mcwfinishes.com instead.
I've used Rustoleum clear gloss from a rattlecan as well. Spray a few light passes - usually 2 or 3 but DON'T SPRAY TOO CLOSE to your model kit !!!!

I'm going to try and save it as best I can. Lessons learned.

 

[the Baron]

That advice is generally true when airbrushing anything, I have found: apply light coats.
Before I started using an airbrush, I practiced with rattle cans to teach myself to apply a light coat. It's very easy to apply too heavy a coat in a spraying pass.

 

[C.A. Whitecloud]

Not giving up yet. I've taken it down with 1000 grit for the nasty stuff. Trying not to get down to the stripes or decals.