Helpful or useful tools!

[Pantherman]

well , you gotta test it out now that you bought it .
Might be okay for small stuff --- I've tried a couple over the years and the last one wouldn't even melt solder .

I will have a play with it over the weekend and let you know. PM

 

[RacerX]

Thanks for the heads up. It's a cheap one from a well known Chinese company similar to Emu...

I have a bigger, better kit so would you think I should have a go with that first to get some practice in?
PMView attachment 181619

This kit would be the best bet for what your going to do. Not to blow my own horn, been a welder for over 40 years and solder medical instruments daily now, if you need some help with the materials and fluxes to use on them because that matters a lot depending on what your soldering just ask im always happy to help.

 

[urumomo]

You probably saw this ?
if not :

Thread 'Good Resource on Working with Photo Etch ( Downloadable )'

Sep 27, 2022

View on page or download ( it's safe , I downloaded it )
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wtmn9hzzg82h97h/Working with PE for Armor Modelers_Book.pdf?dl=

• urumomo
• Replies: 8
• Forum: Tutorials

• 
• 

 

[Pantherman]

This kit would be the best bet for what your going to do. Not to blow my own horn, been a welder for over 40 years and solder medical instruments daily now, if you need some help with the materials and fluxes to use on them because that matters a lot depending on what your soldering just ask im always happy to help.

Thanks Racer, very much appreciated. PM

 

[Pantherman]

You probably saw this ?
if not :

Thread 'Good Resource on Working with Photo Etch ( Downloadable )'

Sep 27, 2022

View on page or download ( it's safe , I downloaded it )
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wtmn9hzzg82h97h/Working with PE for Armor Modelers_Book.pdf?dl=

• urumomo
• Replies: 8
• Forum: Tutorials

• 
• 

I have not seen that, many thanks urumomo. PM

 

[RacerX]

Thanks Racer, very much appreciated. PM

Here is a good starting place, is your photo etched stuff made of stainless steel? If so this stuff will give you good results. I see a bottle in the pics that says micro krystal kleer is that a liquid flux? To do what i think your doing the large solder iron will be needed, stainless and brass need at least 600 deg to flow the solder properly. A 35 watt iron is 600 deg max, a 45 watt gos to about 800 deg. The solder wire must be solid no flux core, flux core is for copper wire and electronic use, liquid flux is acid based to really clean and prep material like brass and stainless. Squirt some flux into an old shot glass you dont need to dip your applicator and your iron tip into, Tinning / adding some solder to the pcs your going to join is a must, then all you will need to do is touch the pcs together add a tiny bit of flux and touch the iron tip to the joining point the solder will flow together smooth and clean with no extra solder needed. A good water wash of the parts is needed after soldering to neutralize and clean off the flux so you can paint the parts later. After the iron tip cools water wash it to so the acid wont eat it away to soon, keep a wet paper towel folded into a 3 inch square to clean the iron tip between each weld, after wiping the burnt flux off dip just the tip in the flux and add a little clean solder back to it for the next weld. I use mine a lot so i need to change the tip every 3 months or so because it gets ate up by the flux no matter how much i clean it after. And as Barly says keep your face out of the way acid flux fumes are really nasty.

 

[Littlemarten]

Thanks for the heads up. It's a cheap one from a well known Chinese company similar to Emu...

I have a bigger, better kit so would you think I should have a go with that first to get some practice in?
PMView attachment 181619

If neither is satisfactory, check out Iso-tip™.

 

[Pantherman]

Decided to upgrade my PPE, I thought with all the PE and soldering I'm planning on doing plus the amount of paint I will need to spray for the Bismarck, I had better get a new mask with goggles. Pantherman

 

[Littlemarten]

Decided to upgrade my PPE, I thought with all the PE and soldering I'm planning on doing plus the amount of paint I will need to spray for the Bismarck, I had better get a new mask with goggles. Pantherman
View attachment 182072

It looks like this mask is not for vapors, only particulates. That makes it suitable for soldering, but not solvent vapor from the paint you'll be spraying.

 

[Pantherman]

It looks like this mask is not for vapors, only particulates. That makes it suitable for soldering, but not solvent vapor from the paint you'll be spraying.

I only use acrylics so I thought it would be ok for that. Pantherman

 

[Littlemarten]

I only use acrylics so I thought it would be ok for that. Pantherman

A lot of people seem to think so, and generally, acrylics are less toxic than organic solvent soluble paints. But less toxic does not mean nontoxic. There are things in many, probably all, acrylic paints that you don't want to breathe.

Something most people don't know: Any chemical not proven beyond any shred of doubt to be toxic, can be legally labeled as nontoxic. So they get sold as nontoxic.

Furthermore, a particulate-only respirator can expose you to higher concentrations of paint vapor. The particulate filter can become saturated with solvent components from the paint, greatly increasing your exposure.

Where do you do your airbrushing?

 

[Pantherman]

A lot of people seem to think so, and generally, acrylics are less toxic than organic solvent soluble paints. But less toxic does not mean nontoxic. There are things in many, probably all, acrylic paints that you don't want to breathe.

Something most people don't know: Any chemical not proven beyond any shred of doubt to be toxic, can be legally labeled as nontoxic. So they get sold as nontoxic.

Furthermore, a particulate-only respirator can expose you to higher concentrations of paint vapor. The particulate filter can become saturated with solvent components from the paint, greatly increasing your exposure.

Where do you do your airbrushing?

Indoors with a filtered booth and very little ventilation. Not good, I know. Pantherman

 

[Rich P]

Anyone have familiarity with Tamiya Metal Primer? I've used Mr. Surfacer 1500 but the primer seems to peel off of photo etch. I'm wondering if I'm just not sufficiently prepping it, or if the TMP would in fact be a worthy investment.

 

[Littlemarten]

Indoors with a filtered booth and very little ventilation. Not good, I know. Pantherman

Does the booth have a carbon filter? If so, you should be pretty good using that.

Any way to vent that booth outside? I once vented an internal booth through an external window by cutting a piece of plywood to fit between the sash and the sill, with closed-cell foam around the edges to form a seal. I ran a piece of dryer vent between the hood's exhaust and a hole in the plywood.

Absent such a solution, I'd recommend a respirator with organic cartridge filters.

 

[Littlemarten]

Anyone have familiarity with Tamiya Metal Primer? I've used Mr. Surfacer 1500 but the primer seems to peel off of photo etch. I'm wondering if I'm just not sufficiently prepping it, or if the TMP would in fact be a worthy investment.

Most photo-etch is coated, giving it a slick, shiny surface. To get paint to stick, the best way is to etch the surface, either chemically or with a very fine abrasive. Also, paint after forming.

 

[Jakko]

Something most people don't know: Any chemical not proven beyond any shred of doubt to be toxic, can be legally labeled as nontoxic.

… in the USA The EU, for example, tends to err on the side of caution with these kinds of things. Not sure what the rules are concerning chemicals in general, but certainly when it comes to food and drink, over here you can't put it in unless it's generally considered safe for human consumption — which contrasts with the US, where you can't put in things that are generally considered unsafe.

 

[Littlemarten]

… in the USA The EU, for example, tends to err on the side of caution with these kinds of things. Not sure what the rules are concerning chemicals in general, but certainly when it comes to food and drink, over here you can't put it in unless it's generally considered safe for human consumption — which contrasts with the US, where you can't put in things that are generally considered unsafe.

Yes, I should have specified that this is in the US, and that in other places YMMV. I keep forgetting that this is an international forum!

 

[PDGinther]

Anyone have familiarity with Tamiya Metal Primer? I've used Mr. Surfacer 1500 but the primer seems to peel off of photo etch. I'm wondering if I'm just not sufficiently prepping it, or if the TMP would in fact be a worthy investment.

Following… I just purchased some myself.

 

[mcs1056]

A lot of people seem to think so, and generally, acrylics are less toxic than organic solvent soluble paints. But less toxic does not mean nontoxic. There are things in many, probably all, acrylic paints that you don't want to breathe.

Something most people don't know: Any chemical not proven beyond any shred of doubt to be toxic, can be legally labeled as nontoxic. So they get sold as nontoxic.

Furthermore, a particulate-only respirator can expose you to higher concentrations of paint vapor. The particulate filter can become saturated with solvent components from the paint, greatly increasing your exposure.

Where do you do your airbrushing?

Soon-to-retire airline safety guy here.

Even proper respirator cartridges (replaceable carbon/charcoal cans on your face mask) can lead to false sense of security. Our OSHA (I know...you're at your bench, not at work) requires cartridge change schedules. We don't bother, as we replace at the end of each day of use.

A problem is that, once you've breathed through the can, that vapor gets into the filtering agent. The bad element will continue to "desorb" through the can. Think of it as wetting the top of a sponge. Eventually, the whole sponge is moist.

Now, this can take quite a long time, but, if your were working with some sort of really bad polyrazzmatazz, it could be that, in two weeks, your first breath through that mask has that hazardous element in it.

In all circumstances, proper ventilation should be the first line of defense. Move the bad air out and you're much better off. The worst of the vapors still require proper filtration. The best method is a forced air system...bring fresh breathing air through a hose from a remote location to your positive-pressure mask. This, however, can be really expensive, requires validated "clean" dry air (through a properly rated air pump), and the intake location must be kept hidden from your disgusting, farting uncle.

Also keep in mind that, even in clean air, breathing through a respirator can be enough to put some folks in distress. Your cardio/pulmonary system may not be able to handle the breathing restriction.

Sorry for being a total bummer, but it's been my job for thirty years, so...

 

[mcs1056]

I just can't stop myself.

Two more things:

• Facial hair can make the best mask ineffective. We used to rub vaseline on our beards to try to get that proper seal, but that doesn't really work, and is not OSHA-approved.
• Remember to give your mask a good cleaning after each day of use...especially if you bag it for storage. Unless you do clean, your moist breath can lead to fungal buildup, which can be worse than the gunk you're trying to not breathe. Use alcohol wipes to do the inside and parts that rub on skin. Make sure it's really dry before you put it away.

Stay tuned for our next episode, when we'll talk about ladder safety and fall-arrest systems.
(I'm gonna get kicked out of the site, aren't I?)

 

[Pantherman]

I just can't stop myself.

Two more things:

• Facial hair can make the best mask ineffective. We used to rub vaseline on our beards to try to get that proper seal, but that doesn't really work, and is not OSHA-approved.
• Remember to give your mask a good cleaning after each day of use...especially if you bag it for storage. Unless you do clean, your moist breath can lead to fungal buildup, which can be worse than the gunk you're trying to not breathe. Use alcohol wipes to do the inside and parts that rub on skin. Make sure it's really dry before you put it away.

Stay tuned for our next episode, when we'll talk about ladder safety and fall-arrest systems.
(I'm gonna get kicked out of the site, aren't I?)

I think I will just wrap my old hankerchief around my face and tie it with a knot at the back . Pantherman

 

[mcs1056]

I think I will just wrap my old hankerchief around my face and tie it with a knot at the back . Pantherman

Just make sure you have your canary alongside.

 

[Pantherman]

Just make sure you have your canary alongside.

Oh no, more expense. First the canary, then the cage, food . And before you know it, an aviary. Pantherman

 

[Rich P]

I'm going to buy a can tomorrow, and I will report back on the performance, possibly in a new thread.

Edit: i thought I was quoting a post, but it didn't work. I'm referring to Tamiya Metal Primer.

 

[Littlemarten]

I just can't stop myself.

Two more things:

• Facial hair can make the best mask ineffective. We used to rub vaseline on our beards to try to get that proper seal, but that doesn't really work, and is not OSHA-approved.
• Remember to give your mask a good cleaning after each day of use...especially if you bag it for storage. Unless you do clean, your moist breath can lead to fungal buildup, which can be worse than the gunk you're trying to not breathe. Use alcohol wipes to do the inside and parts that rub on skin. Make sure it's really dry before you put it away.

Stay tuned for our next episode, when we'll talk about ladder safety and fall-arrest systems.
(I'm gonna get kicked out of the site, aren't I?)

All these considerations are why I invested in an outside vented spray booth.

And I always wear my hard hat and safety harness …

 

[Pantherman]

All these considerations are why I invested in an outside vented spray booth.

And I always wear my hard hat and safety harness …

Don't forget the haz-mat suit. Pantherman

 

[BarleyBop]

... So for brush painting, mixing colours in a little seal-able pot, or right in a ceramic palette dish has worked just fine.
Today I tried out some little beakers, that are graduated, approximately, and similar in volume to the airbrush bowl.

So much easier than counting drops, (which never seem to be produced consistently), or trying to mix in the AB bowl, or a large container or shallow dish. Pouring into the Airbrush bowl was a snap, and cleanup of the 'lab' beaker just as easy!

Also, everything isolated from the rough and hard surface of my basement tool bench by a clean, silicone mat.

 

[locomotive]

Don't forget the haz-mat suit. Pantherman

In all honesty, the greater problem is breathing the aerosol particles in rather than the minute levels of any vapours.
For the amount of spraying and duration, the use of a FFP3 mask is more than adequate.
It would be highly unlikely you'd exceed any exposure limits.

To be honest, I never wear a mask , or gloves or specs when I spray . Indoors.

And Im a H+S manager for a living!

 

[mcs1056]

To be honest, I never wear a mask , or gloves or specs when I spray . Indoors.

And Im a H+S manager for a living!

For the amount of cutting and duration, I guess I needn't use a push stick on my table saw.

 

[Jakko]

That's a different kind of danger. Every time you use the saw, there's a chance of cutting off a part of your anatomy. With chemicals, though, what matters is how much of it you're exposed to and for how long: with small amounts and for short times, there's very much less danger than with large amounts or long times, let alone large amounts and long times.

In other words: someone spending one hour a month spraying 20 ml on a model kit is at far less risk than someone spraying 2 litres of paint per hour for eight hours a day, twenty days per month.

Yes, the same essentially applies to using a saw, in that someone who uses the saw more has a greater risk of being cut by it. However, the difference is that with small, short exposure to chemicals, your body can get rid of them before you're exposed to them again, whereas if you lose a finger to a saw, that's not going to get better