Finnish (WWII) AFV crew...

Wow, Sarah, you´re a Self Propelled Encyclopaedia ;)

All that knowledge is fully welcome by me and I suppose that all the mates also,

You have a pretty good array of brushes.
So you don´t use almost the 5/0...

Tech Question: do you tink that it is possible to paint very tiny lines with just a hair applied just vertically over a surface ?? ::)
Thanks a lot Sarah ;)
RG
 
Just another tip ,

When trying to paint something very small try using enamel or thinned oil paint .they dont dry on the brush giving you plenty of time to work , only down side is the longer drying period on the piece ;)

Chris.
 
Chris S said:
Just another tip ,

When trying to paint something very small try using enamel or thinned oil paint .they dont dry on the brush giving you plenty of time to work , only down side is the longer drying period on the piece ;)

Chris.

BANG! Chris, definitely I must try this, yeah,
I´m going to scout an old box with Humbrol paints that I keep...
Thanks, Chris ;)
RG
 
You like that idea ;D I find acrylics dry far to quick ,thats good when you're using the Airbrush but not good for detailing ,thats one reason I prefer the smelly old paints ;D. More time to work and less coats needed to build up the colour ;)

Chris.
 
Chris S said:
You like that idea ;D I find acrylics dry far to quick ,thats good when you're using the Airbrush but not good for detailing ,thats one reason I prefer the smelly old paints ;D. More time to work and less coats needed to build up the colour ;)

Chris.
You mean Humbrols, Chris ???
 
Yes mate . Humbrols or oils are my prefered weapon of choice . And for spraying I have recently switched back to the Humbrols too ,although I do like Tamiya thinned out with cellulose ;)

Chris.
 
Chris S said:
Yes mate . Humbrols or oils are my prefered weapon of choice . And for spraying I have recently switched back to the Humbrols too ,although I do like Tamiya thinned out with cellulose ;)

Chris.
You´re a paintin´surprise box, Chris, this info is really very interesting,

Sorry, mate: what is "cellulose" ? is it the Tamiya thinner with the yellow tap? ??? ??? ??? I´m lost here.

When you say Tamiyas... you mean either to paint figures or AFVs? Tamiya enamels or acrilycs, Chris? Sincerely, I think that the combo Tamiya acrilyc paint / Tamiya Thinner is GREAT for AFVs.

What about Tamiya Enamels AGAINST Humbrol ones??
 
Hi Jelly,
I have never painted with the tamiya enamels before, but I will tell you that in my own opinion that the absolute best paint for brush painting is Humbrol. I have been using Humbrol paint ever since I was a kid. I still have some Humbrol paints that are over 20 years old, and although the pigment has settled on the bottom of the tin, once you get them stirred up, they are good to go.

I really enjoy working with Humbrol. That’s what I’m using to paint my latest figure with.

http://www.scalemodeladdict.com/forum/index.php/topic,4151.0.html
 
Ok ...I will try to explain ;D

Tamiya acrylics ....I dont brush paint with these ,they are not very good for that purpose . I would use them in the Airbrush . The Cellulose is a thinner used by car painters sometimes known as Lacquer thinners. I find the Tamiya paint sprays well mixed with this and doesnt dry on the needle ,gives a nice finish too ;)

I cant compare Tamiya enamel against Humbrol as I havent used Tamiya enamels .

I would use Humbrol enamels for brush painting ,I find it very good for that ,I also like spraying with them and again they can be thinned with Cellulose .

Chris.
 
I think they have a nice color range, I find myself mixing colors a lot though. But thats half the fun.
 
Humbrol have a fantastic range of paints mate ....check it out ...

http://www.humbrol.com/paints/

Chris.
 
:) Howdy my modelling mates (girls – ;) Sarah! I think you´re the only one around ! - & boys),
´
Here´s a really wet weather, raining as if the world is coming to an end… so yesterday after coming home from my job (thanks God for having one, I get down on my knees), and finishing some chores, I took the C.I.C (AKA “wife”) in my supercar ( ;D) to the train, and I got back to home to take care of our dogs and home… she´ll be back surely either tonite or tomorrow, so I can curse freely! ;D
´
Yesterday I had a beautiful “free time” evening modelling a figurine, reading “Grenadiers” (Kurt Meyer), and watchin´an episode of DEADWOOD tv series (I´m watching first season, chapter 09). Got a quick sandwich made in the kitchen, and drank a beautiful Chimay beer. :D
´
Well, here´s the result of the modelling (painting) session. I must confess that after painting just one figurine, I got as if I were tired. And as Tony (Lee) says, the time “evaporates”, literally.
´
There goes a little salvo of pics.
´
Oh, the first one depicts the (painting) materials I´ve used to get the figurine painted.
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P1010728.jpg

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P1010730.jpg

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P1010733.jpg

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P1010735.jpg

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P1010736.jpg

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P1010738.jpg

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:) Mates, as always, thanks for watching; I await your evaluation & criticism,
As you know, jokes & jerking are always welcome with me... ;)
Cheers / Salud
RG
 
I think you're getting better with each one Jelly ,he's looking very good so are the eyes ;)

Chris.
 
Hi Jelly

looking very good mate,

i would recommend experimenting with washes its a great way to add a lot of depth to a coat of paint


great painting non-the-less


shane
 
:) Good Morning, gang,
To you all: thanks a lot for watching and for your comments, sincerely, they´re really appreciated.
´
Yeah, Quaralane, my friend, the facial sculpt is a bit pronounced, mostly the cheek-bone, I believe, but that´s how the figurine is! And also… I don´t have the skills to “minimize” that pronouncing feature… ::) the only thing I´ve tried deliberately to do is to arch the eyebrow over the left eye of the guy, triying to give him more or less a slightly look between surprise and puzzlement, more or less in accordance with the other guy that I painted (it is also in this thread, and that guy has IMO really a lunatic face –again the sculptor-, check it and you´ll see).
´
TBH I´m happy with the results, :) I´ve never got figures like those last, wich have more or less well proportionated eyes, centered iris (usually they looked either cross-eyed or with eyes wide open like junkies…). It’s a solid positive advance for me.
´
Well, guys, I HAVE THREE TECHNICAL DOUBTS:
´
TD Nº 1.- The guy has its face factions and hands shadowed and highlighted (with my evident restraints in skill and technique): WHAT is the better way to dirt the skin for guy that is operating in an oily & greasy environment??
´
TD Nº2.- The overall are, again, shadowed and highlighted, but they look immaculate: HOW could I make oil/grease stains over “fabric” ? ? I know how to reproduce oil/ grease stains either over armor, steel or nonadsorbant surgaces… but how do I represent it over an absorbant surface??
´
TD Nº3.- (You really hit my curiosity –in a good way- Shane / Longlance67) I know what is a wash in a vehicle modelling context, but I don´t know it in modelling figures context: so:
´
TD Nº3.1.- WHAT is a “wash” over a figure?? HOW is it done??
´
TD Nº3.2.- WHERE is it applied? over SKIN?? over FABRICS?? ? ? ?
´
Again, thanks a lot to you all for your time and your aid… :D
Cheers / Salud
RG
 
- Jelly

my understanding of the term wash, or least how i use them is too:

1. add depth to basecoat

2. blend in and tone bright basecoats

3. to give the element of wear and tear to colthing ect.

the washes i use are normally heavyly thinned vallejo pants and i apply them certain areas that i feel need more depth of shadow or make way for the highlighting process. The wash is similar to the wash used in AFV modelling it is a filter used to tone down and blend your coats together. For example i use a light wash (a lot thinning medium) of flat earth to camo schemes to soften the stark constrasts of the camo pattern, i also use black on monotoned elements to add shadow and come back over it with the orginal colour to add highlight values

i hope this proves to be usefull mate


shane
 

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