Decal help

[fubar]

Hi i'm just starting to place my decals on my model, it has an acrylic base which is fully dried, i have followed the instructions which are wet decal then slide into place.....but as you can see it has left a great big water stain around the decal.



NOT impressed. I'm hoping it will dry away but it has been 30 mins now and shows no sign of lessening. :-\

Any idea why this is or how to prevent it? Should i have varnished before decals?

TTFN Matt

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

You should be able to get rid of that with wet a q-tip or something but it looks like the paint might have been 'dry' but not fully cured because it really shouldn't do that.

 

[fubar]

OK thanks, how long do you leave acrylics to cure then because this was left for about 36 hours which i thought was more than enough. ???

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

36 should be enough really, that's odd. That was just water, and not like a decal softening solution? I've had decal solutions do that but was still able to remove it with application of more moisture and some feathering.

If you want to seal the paint before putting anymore decals on at this point you could but if it's acrylic as well I'm not sure what difference it would make. Maybe you just have some really hard water?

???

 

[spud]

ive ony ever got that when i have no barrier coat on, did you put on a coat of Klear/future before hand?

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

For sure....coat of future or gloss varnish before decals. Helps adhesion, no air bubbles and frosted decals.

Looks like the water in the decal mixed with some of the decal bonder on the decal itself and wicked onto the matt paint surface.

 

[fubar]

It was just ordinary warm tap water straight onto Lifecolor acrylics. No barrier coat, i do have some Klear but still unsure about putting it through my AB.....but if Klear is acrylic based too will the water not just pass through it still and effect the paint?

I do have something called Humbrol Decalfix, i did a small tester on the underside of the tank and this stuff dried out leaving a big greasy stain so i wont be trying that up top. lol

Wonder if it's the Lifecolor it doesn't like?

Guess all i can do is try to minimize the water stain then feather it away with a Q-tip and hope the weathering covers it up.....that or bite the bullet and try Klear out. :-\

TTFN Matt

 

[Splashcoat]

It looks to me as though you tried to decal over a matte paint finish. Decals only really work properly when applied over a gloss finish. My personal finishing method is this:

- Allow the paint coat to cure at least for a day and then gloss coat with Future.
- Apply the decals and allow them to dry at least overnight.
- Overcoat the decals with another coat of Future and allow this to dry for at least a day.
- Apply any washes you're planning on using to the gloss surface. Washes flow better over gloss and you'll avoid "high tide" marks. Let it dry for at least a day.
- Apply as many light coats of matte/dull varnish (my favourite is Testor's Model Master) until you achieve the surface finish you're looking for. Dry for a day.
- Apply weathering powders/pastels/dry brushing over the matte surface.

You should be able to remove the adhesive staining on your model with some warm water and a soft rag. Sadly, the decal itself is probably a write-off.

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

Sadly, the decal itself is probably a write-off.

Whats wrong with the decal?

I don't see any silvering and with a little softening solution it will snuggle right down.

I haven't gloss coated a model before applying decals in over a year (which equates to over 30 models) and have yet to have a problem.

 

[fubar]

PHEW....thanks for the idea of the damp Q-tip, after a lot of gentle rubbing i have it nearly good as new....



...now i cant decide whether to carry on like this using the Q-tip or start messing around with Klear and my AB. ???

 

[ShutterAce]

By the looks of that carrier film I'd strongly suggest you at least apply Klear where the decals sit. I fear that weathering is going to really highlight the edge of that carrier film. :-\

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

See?

Easy peasy...

I would try some softening solution to get it to snuggle down more to the surface and reduce the film thickness, just keep it light and don't walk away from it, you'll get it to look fine as is. Maybe seal it after your done, (I use Vallejo Satin Varnish myself)

...klear/future through the airbrush is no problem though, clean up is pretty easy and straight forward.

 

[fubar]

Once i get the decals on i'll be coating the whole model in acrylic varnish before using some AK enamel weathering products so hopefully the decal film will be no prob but i may order some of this micosol stuff i heard mentioned, do you need microset as well?

TTFN Matt

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

I don't use the set, only the sol.

Others do however, so the choice is yours.

 

[Chris S]

Im the same as Ken ,I only use the 'Sol' I've heard a number of people having issues with the 'set ' part .
Dont fear using the Klear in the AB ,it really wont do any harm ,being a polish its self levelling too ,so dont be scared to put it on ,which I would recomend ..even if its just on the areas where the decals are going ...it will make life easier

Chris.

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

..even if its just on the areas where the decals are going ...

Now that I can understand completely and can also see a benefit.

The last model I totally covered in future was my entry in the 2010 contest. and worked my rear end off over the next couple of weeks toning it down.

After a few long email conversations with Mike Rinaldi and Miguel Jimenez I've never used it again, unless I'm sprucing up my aircraft cockpit or a headlight lens that is.

 

[fubar]

Well thanks to the help you guys gave shes all done....and no water marks. ;D



Is there a time window in which you can use the 'sol' part? It's just that i'll have to order it on the internet and i doubt very much that i'll see it for about a week at least! :

Mind you if i varnish (or Klear if i fancy the challenge ) next that should seal the decals safe enough to weather shouldn't it?

You say you had to tone down your model, does 'future' alter the colours much? I noticed that 'Klear' actually has a slight milky colour to it when in liquid form.

Again thanks for the help.

TTFN Matt

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

I have used softening solution a week or more after applying them and it still worked as it's supposed to.

It wont work through any varnish/sealer though, and yes any clear satin or gloss coat will have a slight darkening effect on the paint job but that's one of the reasons it's always safer to paint lighter than your desired outcome.

Any washes/filters/streaking can continue to darken the surface as well.

 

[fubar]

Is this the stuff you mean when you talk about softening solution?

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=0

I cant seem to find it under that name with any of the online shops i use in the UK, do you have to order it direct from Microscale in the US?

TTFN Matt

 

[FW190A-8]

Yep. That's the very stuff. I know it says "setting solution" on the bottle (which is a bit confusing) but it actually is the softening solution the guys are referring to. A short time after you put it on the decal you will probably find that the decal wrinkles up a bit. DO NOT try to flatten or smooth it down! It is normal for this wrinkling to happen. It will pull the decal down flat after a short time. If you try to help the process you will risk ruining the decal. I remember being anxious the first time I ever used this stuff but I resisted the temptation to help smooth the decal and everything turned out just fine.
cheers,
FW190