Churchill Mk. VI (semi-quickie)

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Jakko

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In July this year, I bought an AFV Club Churchill Mk. VI:

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Somebody on Scalemates put it up for sale for 5 (yes, five) euros plus postage, and to my surprise, nobody had bought it by the time I noticed it. On inquiring about it, the seller said it was assembled and complete, but not painted. Hey, for a fiver, I'm in :)

When I got it home from the shop where I had to pick up the parcel, I found the model like this:

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Essentially straight from the box other than replacement resin exhaust pipes with etched covers, which was a nice surprise. It was built well enough, no sloppy mistakes or other glaring problems, so I put it aside for a few months before actually getting round to it. By mid-September, I felt like tackling the corrections that this kit needs. You see, AFV Club made a rather obvious mistake with the turret ring: the real Churchill Mk. VI is almost indistinguishable from a Mk. IV unless you really know what to look for. One external difference is that it has a wider turret ring than the Mk. IV, because an extra armoured collar was added around it. AFV Club did add that, but also made the turret ring taller at the same time, which it shouldn't be. Here is the turret as the previous owner assembled it per the kit instructions, together with the leftover Mk. IV turret base that also comes in the kit:

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Basically, it should have the thicker turret ring as on the left but with the height of the part on the right. Fortunately, the model had been assembled with less cement than I would have used myself, allowing me to take the turret to pieces with relatively little effort:

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Once that was done, I modified the Mk. IV lower part:

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That is, I removed the bumps at the rear and filled the resulting holes, then added a wider turret ring made by laminating two lengths of 0.5 mm by 1 mm plastic strip around a former of approximately the right diameter. (Using two strips rather than one of the full thickness has two advantages: a rectangular strip is easier to bend than a square one, and by glueing them together around the former, they will hold the shape much better without the need for heat-forming.) Once dry, I also brushed some thinned putty around the strip to blend it into the rest of the turret.

While I had the turret apart, I also did a small conversion that nobody will spot unless they really know their Churchills :)

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The hole in the front has a cut-off upper corner in the kit, but I squared it off. The one with the fillet in the corner is correct for the Mk. VI, while the square hole is a feature of the Mk. V, which had a 95 mm howitzer instead of a 75 mm gun. However, there are photos of Churchills with 75 mm guns and a square hole, suggesting that some Mk. V turrets were used to build Mk. VI tanks. (The reason for the square hole is that the gunner's telescope is higher up in the mantlet on the Mk. V, so the fillet would interfere with it. A Mk. VI with a square hole suffers no drawbacks from that, other than a slightly greater vulnerability to enemy fire, of course, which is why it should have the fillet in the first place.)

BTW, I also purchased a set of AFV Club Churchill tracks for this model, as I didn't want to use the soft plastic ones it comes with. They just don't sit right on a Churchill with its long-pitch links. You only need 50 links per side, though, not 70-something as the instructions tell you — well, if you leave the track covers on, anyway. Nearly the whole upper run is out of sight, so I don't see the point in adding it :)

And from there, the model languished until yesterday … I had already decided I wanted spare track armour on it, because this features very heavily on British (and Canadian) tanks from late 1944 until the end of the war. Digging through some of my spares boxes, I came up with a good, representative assortment of Sherman and Churchill tracks for hull and turret:

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I had kind of wanted some Panther or Tiger tracks on the turret, but as I don't have any, I had to put more Churchill and Sherman links on instead :) The Churchill tracks are all from AFV Club, while most of the grey Sherman ones are from Dragon that someone gave me this summer — and just building these couple made me glad I never bought a Dragon Sherman kit that comes with them … Awful things to make. Other Sherman tracks on the model are from Tamiya, Asuka and Panda Plastics. I didn't try to replicate a tank from a photo, but arranged the tracks to look much like they do in photos of different tanks.

The white stuff in the last photo is coarse, textured, acrylic gel from an art supply store, applied with a spatula and a stiff brush to look like mud. It will dry semi-transparent, and probably shrink a little so I may have to add a second coat once it dries (it's still very wet in the photo).
 
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Construction is done, I think:

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I added a figure from Bronco (still loose) in the commander's hatch and put some stowage on the back, mainly boxes from Panzer Art and jerrycans from Bronco, with a Resicast mess tin and some other small items. Oh yeah, and a tow cable over the left mudguard.

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Paint soon, I hope …
 
Nice additions!
Amazed how well you know your Churchill! If I knew that much stuff, I'd be completely paralyzed with fear of mucking something up!

Best wishes for a happy, healthy and build-full new year!
 
I know a reasonable amount about Churchills, but not all that well :) Aside from what you can pick up from old books about the tank, what helped a lot was reading stuff about it on the Armour in Focus website (though note that because it's stone-age late 1990s HTML, you have to click on The Articles in the menu on the left to get to that part), where I got the turret hole information from, for example. But be prepared to spend some time getting things straight for yourself, because the site could have been written a bit more clearly :)
 
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Thanks for the compliment, but it's nowhere near a masterpiece :) I just put it back together (as bits had come off in the mail — the guy had just wrapped the box in paper and sent it, with no padding at all inside) and made a few corrections for accuracy while I was at it. Well, that and built a set of tracks and stuck on some more tracks to the hull and turret.

The model is now overall grey primer, BTW. And since the high winds we had here yesterday have died down, chances are I'll spray it olive drab today (I need to open a window to put the hose for the spray booth out of, but that faces the prevailing wind direction so with a near-storm going, I wasn't going to be doing that yesterday :) ).
 
Yesterday afternoon, I put a coat of grey primer over the whole model:

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This with cheap primer from Action (a Dutch chain of stores that sells everything for cheap), because somebody on the TWENOT forums mentioned a while ago that it's pretty good primer, so I bought two cans (grey and white) and this is the first model I've painted since. I don't normally put primer over entire plastic models, but this one has a metal barrel and etched parts and some resin over the whole thing, so a coat of primer didn't seem like a bad idea. Also because for the base colour, I wanted to use Mr. Paint lacquer:

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This is their SCC 15 (British olive drab), and I'm also not a fan of this type of paint, but this is airbrush-ready and cooperates a lot better than the Mr. Hobby one that you have to thin yourself. In any case, I had about two-thirds of a bottle of it left, so I might as well use it ;) The tracks have been sprayed Tamiya Medium Grey.
 
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First, I sprayed little patches of Mig IDF Green into the centres of all of the panels to break the monotony, then I put a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone (this is a translucent brown paint), thinned about 1:1 with water, over everything. When that had dried, I drybrushed the whole model with Humbrol HD1 Aircraft Grey Green, from a very old tin.

Not visible in the picture is that I applied more mud after I had put on the base colour, with the same acrylic gel as before, because I felt the tank wasn't dirty enough yet.
 
Not sure I understand the question … I just applied the wash, let it dry, and then drybrushed the model :) This blends things automatically, because by its nature, the drybrushing effect gets less intense away from the edges on the model. The most important thing to remember with drybrushing is that it's better to start off too subtle: you can always go over it again to increase the effect, but you can't take it off if you've overdone it. (This applies to washes too, but if you apply one that's too thick or too strong, at least you can tone it down by thinning it on the model before it dries.)
 
By now I've mostly painted the track armour and the stowage, but not finished them yet, added the markings (but the star on the turret roof needs some touching up), and almost finished the figure for the commander:

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The star was an interesting problem: it has to go over the ventilator, which is rather tricky. I found a suitable star in my spare decals box and then used my oversize punch-and-die set to make an 8 mm hole in it before soaking it off the backing sheet:

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Of course, I had first measured out where this hole had to go. Happily, I managed to put it in the right place on the first try :) The star split into two pieces as I got it off the backing paper, but they've lined up well enough. You can make out the seam in the photo, but it's much less obvious on the actual model. When it dries, it will probably be even less so, and else some dirt will fix it :)

Then I applied the cut-out bit, too:

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Both with plenty of Micro Sol to soften them (which is still wet when I took these photos), but I suspect I may have to apply it a few more times to get the parts to settle down completely. You can also see in the last photo that the cut-out part got damaged, so it needs to be touched up with paint later.
 
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Someone pointed out to me elsewhere that the Churchill spare tracks would not have been as deep brown. I had been wondering about that myself, so the comment made me repaint them. I went over the deep red-brown with a medium grey, but not quite into all the deepest recesses so a little of the brown comes through there, and then added unthinned Army Painter Soft Tone over that to give a slightly brown sheen and a light rust effect:

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@Jakko , since you are talking about tracks, I would be interested to learn what you think about tyre colour in ww2.
Was it the same for all sides, or were there variations because of rubber sourcing, formulation and availability?
I once read that in later british armour, it was definitely greyer than earlier i.e. the universal carrier of which they built so many. What is your opinion on this topic?
 
Sorry to say that it's not a subject I've ever given any thought to — unlike the colour of tracks :) But you've made me think that it warrants looking into, though I'm not quite sure how to go about that …
 
@urumomo , with your expertise of things chemical, what do you think?

It seems that with the Axis control of the Malay peninsula, the Allies lost the biggest source of rubber, and the US began using GR-S (with styrene) rubber in a big way. Apparently, a Sherman tank has half a ton of it!
https://blog.ansi.org/iso-1817-2022-vulcanized-or-thermoplastic-rubber/

I can't find the original source where I read about 'grey' rubber, and that has been complicated by what I now know about natural rubber being milky in colour!
 
Love the Sherman photo on that page ,

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too much snipped from the bottom of the pic , though
 
The Churchill is now dirty:

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This by means of an overall wash of Tamiya Flat Earth, but that does mean part of the shadow effect of the previous wash has been lost. I think I may need to redo that over the dirt, but I'll have to test it out first so I don't screw it up.

The patches of mud have been painted with a dark brown-grey that I mixed by eye, then added a dark wash over. It needs to be drybrushed for highlights, because right now it's more of a dark blob than anything else.

I also painted the parts where bare metal shows (the running surfaces of the roadwheels and the teeth on the idler wheels) with Humbrol Polished Steel. Unfortunately, both tins I have of that are very far gone — as in the paint being almost unusable, not that they've run out entirely — so I really need to find some more.
 
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The issue is that I had applied a darker wash to add shadows to the model, but most of those have been obliterated by the dirt wash I put over it yesterday. I should probably only have done the shade-wash after the dirt, but the problem then is that it will also go over the decals and darken them, which is why I did it first. I guess I'll have to re-do the shadows now, but a quick test on the underside of the model yesterday gave me the impression that a lot of of the dirt effect will disappear if I try and shade it like I did the whole tank … Which is why I need to do a little more testing first, I think.
 
So I did test it today, painting the whole of the right side of the hull with thinned Soft Tone again. That was decidedly not a success: the whole dirt effect disappeared. So when it had dried, I put another Flat Earth wash over it again to restore the dirt. What I think I need to do, is apply another wash of a darker dirt colour, but thinner so that it only covers the current dirt in the deeper recesses.
 
The Churchill is now finished.

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Over the past few days, I also painted a streetcorner base by DioDump — only two years after I bought it at a model show :)

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Since I completed both just today, why not combine them?

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That is to say, the tank is loose, and will remain so :) The base is intended for taking pictures, as a display base for model shows (in as far as I attend those), and similar.
 
Somebody on Scalemates put it up for sale for 5 (yes, five) euros plus postage, and to my surprise, nobody had bought it by the time I noticed it. On inquiring about it, the seller said it was assembled and complete, but not painted. Hey, for a fiver, I'm in
Just a reminder for you folks at home who just tuned in.

Amazing save! MVP of this game!
 
The only heavy tank of it's day that could climb almost any hill, right?

IIRC is was due to the super-low gearing not the power.
 
Amazing save! MVP of this game!
Thanks, though it wasn't so much of a save since only the obvious things like hatches and antenna mounts were broken :)

The only heavy tank of it's day that could climb almost any hill, right?
Not really a heavy tank because the British didn't think in terms of light/medium/heavy, but the Churchill was indeed known for its hill-climbing capacity. Definitely not for its top speed :) Nor, for that matter, for being waterproof, except apparently the floor — when it rained, water would come in through seams and joints but then pool on the floor, sloshing back and forth as the tank moved …
 

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