Can't afford an airbrush, tios for brushpainting needed

ahmed malik

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Joined
Jul 22, 2012
Messages
103
I have to brush paint and i am using tamiya acrylics, but i hate the drying time and the thinning 1:1 ratio, and 3-5 coats, so would revell aqua colours, or humbrol enamel, or revell enamel be any easier/better, etc.
I am still trying out the hobby, but i am making a tamiya f40, and am having quite major fit issues, i already messed up the car body, so am having an open car with the engine and internals showing... And also i prefer tanks, as you can weather it much more but my parents say i cant buy another one because i already have one unfinished.
Also any tips with using any of these paints would be appreciated. ;D
 
Enamels take much longer to dry, but Vallejo are fantastic for brush painting
 
I've heard really good things about Revell Aqua Colors. I plan on importing some when I have the money.

Akan acrylics brush fairly well and easily, but can be hard to get a hold of.

Tamiya's F40 is an older kit and nothing like their newer car kits. They practically fall together much like anything Tamiya does.
 
As Spud says Vallejo is the way to go for hand painting. See if you can pick up some Vallejo 'model colour' you won't be disappointed.
 
Bear in mind I have to paint very large surfaces... And also can someone help me with ratios, cleaning brush, what not to do etc... Help will be appreciated thanks in advance ;D
 
i would echo the other guys: if painting with a brush, nothing can be better then Valeljo paints - with almost no thinning required ( i would say 20 percent of finner would be all that needed) it would be a perfect solution for your situation.
Also, for painting the "hull" of the car I'd recommend You trying a spray can. You see, no matter how well can You paint with a brush, You will always get some rougthness of the surface. It will look quite realistic on the tank, especially coverd with pigments, wash and all that stuff, but strange as a car paint. So the solution here is to spray the paint - if not from an airbrush, then from the can.
And, one other tip, to gain a good result (and no matter brushing by hand or with an airbrush, but especially if by hand) is to cover the model with a layer of primer before pain. Primer can also be bought in a can for spraying. And it can be sanded down a bit before brushing on the paint to gain a maximum glossy finish, again if working on a car model.
 
Solander said:
i would echo the other guys: if painting with a brush, nothing can be better then Valeljo paints - with almost no thinning required ( i would say 20 percent of finner would be all that needed) it would be a perfect solution for your situation.
Also, for painting the "hull" of the car I'd recommend You trying a spray can. You see, no matter how well can You paint with a brush, You will always get some rougthness of the surface. It will look quite realistic on the tank, especially coverd with pigments, wash and all that stuff, but strange as a car paint. So the solution here is to spray the paint - if not from an airbrush, then from the can.
And, one other tip, to gain a good result (and no matter brushing by hand or with an airbrush, but especially if by hand) is to cover the model with a layer of primer before pain. Primer can also be bought in a can for spraying. And it can be sanded down a bit before brushing on the paint to gain a maximum glossy finish, again if working on a car model.

Yeah, I did use a spray can but this was my first model so I hand brushed it, but used humbrol enamel thinner, white streaks appeared, so I used my tamiya fluorescent red about 5 cm from the body... And I did it all in one coat. It ended up so bad. I am trying to remove the paint, but am struggling.
 
im in the exact situation as you are, my small modelling budget means i 100% hand brush my models from base coat to weathering. i build mainly 1/35th military and work with Revell Aqua Acrylics for painting and AK Interactive Enamels for weathering. i am, however no means an expert (3.5 models done so far) but here are some tips (in more or less chronological order of the modeling process):

NOTE: sorry for the long text ahead :D

-clean the parts in soapy water to remove any mold-release agent

-build the model in easily painted sub-assemblies if you can. in some cases, some places will be impossible to reach with a brush (the complex suspension on the Revell Fuchs i built for example meant that some parts were left unpainted). my way of working is to keep a brush during the build process an paint just plain water onto the parts to see if the brush will reach before actually gluing the part. if it doesnt reach, i leave the part aside to paint and attach later

-use a primer. even one from a spray can will do the trick. this turns all the different colored styrene, resin, photoetch, etc. into one continuous base coat to work on. it also helps highlight any imperfections in the model allowing you to rework them. grey color works great in general but white will be especially good for lighter colored vehicles

-know your paint. before attempting to paint, play around with some of your paint. try different thinning ratios. try out your brushes. remember there is not one be all, end all ratio to thin paint. quality varies between manufactures and even within batches of paint, and environmental conditions can affect the paint as well. practice on some spare parts or a really cheap model to get a feel of how your paint performs

-have a good selection of quality brushes. cheap brushes will leave you frustrated and with unsatisfying results. i use the Mig Abteilung 502 series of synthetic brushes. they work great for me and are not as expensive as natural sable brushes. also keep a nice assortment of sizes, at the minimum you will need a small round detail brush, a medium sized round, and a large flat for larger surfaces. you could slowly build up your collection as you need them.

-if you paint with acrylics, use a wet palette. either DIY or one that you purchase, a wet palette will keep your acrylic paint from drying out to fast and allows you to work slowly. it also keeps you from having to re-thin the paint as often

-coming from the previous tip: BE PATIENT! when brush painting, its important to be patient. to prevent the dreaded brush marks, its important to build up light coats of paint rather than just slathering it on. this is where the wet palette comes in. i once had to do 4 entire coats of base color to paint a model but the result was smooth.

-allow the paint to dry. usually brush marks are a result of overworking the paint, i.e., repeatedly passing the brush over as it dries. paint will normally "self-level" as it dries, but if you overwork the paint, the brush marks have no time to "self-level" and you get the dreaded brush marks. also, if you need to hold the model while painting, if the paint is still wet, youll leave fingerprints. so again, be patient, it may take days, but its worth it.

-clean your brush often. paint will work its way up into the bristles of the brush, and if not cleaned, will dry up and ruin the brush. so have a small pot of water/thinner and every now and again, take a moment to rinse out the brush. and when the painting is all said and done, clean the brush well. invest in a brush soap or cleaning liquid to remove most traces of paint.

-if you decide to choose enamels for weathering, keep a separate set of brushes for acrylics and enamels. brushes used in enamel paints should not be used for acrylics unless thoroughly cleaned.

-ENJOY IT. for me, brush painting is almost like meditation. keep yourself relaxed and enjoy the process. sometimes i even put a movie on to watch or have some nice music in the background. we may occasionally get stressed out while building/painting, but remember to have fun, because thats what this hobby is all about.

sorry for the long text, but i hope this may be of help ;D please dont hesitate to ask questions about anything i posted here if its unclear
 
andrei383 said:
im in the exact situation as you are, my small modelling budget means i 100% hand brush my models from base coat to weathering. i build mainly 1/35th military and work with Revell Aqua Acrylics for painting and AK Interactive Enamels for weathering. i am, however no means an expert (3.5 models done so far) but here are some tips (in more or less chronological order of the modeling process):

NOTE: sorry for the long text ahead :D

-clean the parts in soapy water to remove any mold-release agent

-build the model in easily painted sub-assemblies if you can. in some cases, some places will be impossible to reach with a brush (the complex suspension on the Revell Fuchs i built for example meant that some parts were left unpainted). my way of working is to keep a brush during the build process an paint just plain water onto the parts to see if the brush will reach before actually gluing the part. if it doesnt reach, i leave the part aside to paint and attach later

-use a primer. even one from a spray can will do the trick. this turns all the different colored styrene, resin, photoetch, etc. into one continuous base coat to work on. it also helps highlight any imperfections in the model allowing you to rework them. grey color works great in general but white will be especially good for lighter colored vehicles

-know your paint. before attempting to paint, play around with some of your paint. try different thinning ratios. try out your brushes. remember there is not one be all, end all ratio to thin paint. quality varies between manufactures and even within batches of paint, and environmental conditions can affect the paint as well. practice on some spare parts or a really cheap model to get a feel of how your paint performs

-have a good selection of quality brushes. cheap brushes will leave you frustrated and with unsatisfying results. i use the Mig Abteilung 502 series of synthetic brushes. they work great for me and are not as expensive as natural sable brushes. also keep a nice assortment of sizes, at the minimum you will need a small round detail brush, a medium sized round, and a large flat for larger surfaces. you could slowly build up your collection as you need them.

-if you paint with acrylics, use a wet palette. either DIY or one that you purchase, a wet palette will keep your acrylic paint from drying out to fast and allows you to work slowly. it also keeps you from having to re-thin the paint as often

-coming from the previous tip: BE PATIENT! when brush painting, its important to be patient. to prevent the dreaded brush marks, its important to build up light coats of paint rather than just slathering it on. this is where the wet palette comes in. i once had to do 4 entire coats of base color to paint a model but the result was smooth.

-allow the paint to dry. usually brush marks are a result of overworking the paint, i.e., repeatedly passing the brush over as it dries. paint will normally "self-level" as it dries, but if you overwork the paint, the brush marks have no time to "self-level" and you get the dreaded brush marks. also, if you need to hold the model while painting, if the paint is still wet, youll leave fingerprints. so again, be patient, it may take days, but its worth it.

-clean your brush often. paint will work its way up into the bristles of the brush, and if not cleaned, will dry up and ruin the brush. so have a small pot of water/thinner and every now and again, take a moment to rinse out the brush. and when the painting is all said and done, clean the brush well. invest in a brush soap or cleaning liquid to remove most traces of paint.

-if you decide to choose enamels for weathering, keep a separate set of brushes for acrylics and enamels. brushes used in enamel paints should not be used for acrylics unless thoroughly cleaned.

-ENJOY IT. for me, brush painting is almost like meditation. keep yourself relaxed and enjoy the process. sometimes i even put a movie on to watch or have some nice music in the background. we may occasionally get stressed out while building/painting, but remember to have fun, because thats what this hobby is all about.

sorry for the long text, but i hope this may be of help ;D please dont hesitate to ask questions about anything i posted here if its unclear

wow, thank you for the long text. I'll try to get the 'wet' palette. but should i switch to revell aqua or vallejo for painting as tamiya is notoriously bad for brushing. Also, i can't use enamels as i am only 12...
 
many members here recommend Vallejo Model Color for brush painting and i suggest you start with that
 
Thank you so much everyone who posted. ;) I will make a homemade wet palette and buy some vallejo paints. I will try some revell painta luxus brushes, they seem quite expensive but not crazy, so i am expecting good brushes. my next modle will most definitely be a tank ;D
 
glad we could be of help. try posting a build log of your next model in the armor or junior forum, that way we can see your progress and advise you on ways to improve your model! ;D
 
yesterday i bought a tamiya m41 walker bulldog. It was a simple kit and costed me 12 pounds, but included 3 figures. i have almost finished the assembly... ( yes i know i built it in one day 8)) , but i haven't done any painting whatsoever. i will post a build log soon in the armor section soon. Also i need a little help, should i brush paint it or use a spray can. there was no vallejo paints in my hobby store, only revell enamels and tamiya... :'(
 
Humbrol paint are amazing to brush on ive been hand brushing for year with them strait from the thin

Example

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it just takes good brushes any about 3 coats
 
Im figuring out a way to get the cheapest possible airbrush set, so ill let you know when i do :)

You can get things done pretty well with a brush, but you just cant beat spraying the paint on. Cans and airbrush for large surfaces simply RULE! period. One other thing that rules is Vallejo, for brushing or priming.
Ive been using Vallejo grey primer for a while now and it is even better than i had hoped. Im not the best ''sprayer'' and it is very forgiving. No drips or other kinds of nasty marks, just smooth surfaces :) As for airbrushing, ive ruled out a compressor as it is too expensive. Since i dont plan on doing lots and lots of airbrushing, using it only for large surfaces, ive decided to go for cans of compressed air. It cost about 10$ but i think it can be acquired cheaper still. if you only do large surfaces i think one can of gas can last a long time, and since it is pretty cheap it would take a long time or an epic modelling spree to incur more expense to justify purchasing a compressor system. Not to mention the noise a compressor makes, which is an issue for bedroom modellers. I also managed to get my hands on this Revell airbrush set for 12$ http://www.revell.de/index.php?id=210&KGKANR=0&KGKOGP=13&KGSCHL=3&L=1&page=1&sort=0&nc=&searchactive=&q=&SWO=&ARMAS4=&PHPSESSID=8dbb631e1da4a313a4b27410c7f8298b&KZSLPG=&offset=1&cmd=show&ARARTN=29666&sp=1
thats just the gun, which is terrible, but the regulator is a peach. Now i just have to find the right airbrush!
22$ spent so far :)
 
Keep the paint thin. Use good brushes. Airbrush kits have a wide price spread so shop around. Use spray can as a good second option.
 
Bushy said:
Im figuring out a way to get the cheapest possible airbrush set, so ill let you know when i do :)

You can get things done pretty well with a brush, but you just cant beat spraying the paint on. Cans and airbrush for large surfaces simply RULE! period. One other thing that rules is Vallejo, for brushing or priming.
Ive been using Vallejo grey primer for a while now and it is even better than i had hoped. Im not the best ''sprayer'' and it is very forgiving. No drips or other kinds of nasty marks, just smooth surfaces :) As for airbrushing, ive ruled out a compressor as it is too expensive. Since i dont plan on doing lots and lots of airbrushing, using it only for large surfaces, ive decided to go for cans of compressed air. It cost about 10$ but i think it can be acquired cheaper still. if you only do large surfaces i think one can of gas can last a long time, and since it is pretty cheap it would take a long time or an epic modelling spree to incur more expense to justify purchasing a compressor system. Not to mention the noise a compressor makes, which is an issue for bedroom modellers. I also managed to get my hands on this Revell airbrush set for 12$ http://www.revell.de/index.php?id=210&KGKANR=0&KGKOGP=13&KGSCHL=3&L=1&page=1&sort=0&nc=&searchactive=&q=&SWO=&ARMAS4=&PHPSESSID=8dbb631e1da4a313a4b27410c7f8298b&KZSLPG=&offset=1&cmd=show&ARARTN=29666&sp=1
thats just the gun, which is terrible, but the regulator is a peach. Now i just have to find the right airbrush!
22$ spent so far :)
wait, i bought that airbrush when i bought my first model, it's a rip off. doesn't work. my lhs has no refunds... :(
 
the airbrush, well i wouldnt even call it that... but the hose and regulator are nice :)
Going airbrush hunting today!
 
Bushy said:
the airbrush, well i wouldnt even call it that... but the hose and regulator are nice :)
Going airbrush hunting today!
i've heard good things about the citadel spray gun. it's cheap and works well... might buy it, I have a regulator and a 750ml can of gas.
 

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