https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat_MephistophelesCan anyone tell if the back of this seat is leather...or wood
Trying to figure out how to make it..
View attachment 168822
Hmmm... After all the work you put into the kit you don't really have a choice. Using the stock seat in the photo would take away from all your hard work.Look at what they give you..doesn't look much like it..View attachment 168839View attachment 168840
Looking good!Started on the seat..got outer shell started..the pins came in for the buttons as well as the 39 inches of foam that I need about 3 inches of..made a template for the buttons from some aluminum..
Letting it cure over night as its pretty fragile at this point.
View attachment 168986
View attachment 168987
View attachment 168988
View attachment 168989
I was looking at the aluminum you used to make the buttons and it came to me that maybe you could more easily form the back of the seat using aluminum or brass sheets. I have used the aluminum from soda pop cans to form parts for model before. The aluminum worked with CA glue. It scaled nicely in places as aircraft skin on a 1/35 scale MD-500 helicopter kit.I think this might be one of the hardest parts of model...
I used to fix furniture..that was easier..
Super thin styrene very fragile...have to figure out how to strengthen it up...
Beautiful build so far your detail is top notch.Moved to utah so everything was in boxes...time to finish this. Waiting on the Tamiya 1/6 motorcycle chain to arrive. The one they give you is impossible to put together.View attachment 165941View attachment 165942View attachment 165943
Looks great. I'm loving the brace on the wall. I still have mine from when I was a 16 year old appreciated carpenter.Knocked together a new and bigger spray booth..new this would cost 6 to 700 bucks..under 200 in parts for this and its real quiet..
I can run it out the window or inside with a charcoal canister..
View attachment 169203
View attachment 169204
View attachment 169205
I am a glazier. We were installing storefront door frames on the jobsite, the batteries die on my 20 something year old apprentice's lazer level. He didn't know what to do, no one had extra batteries. It gave me a chance to show him how to use a plumb bob.These days my carpenter's look at me as if I had gone mad when I suggest using any tool that isn't electric or gas powered.
Kids........ Pantherman
...true, but is there anything quite so satisfying as that aromatic curl of wood, and the mirror finish of the surface left behind?takes some know how
That smell always takes me back. I wonder how many hours I spent cleaning and sharpening plane blades, chisels and saws. Pantherman...true, but is there anything quite so satisfying as that aromatic curl of wood, and the mirror finish of the surface left behind?
Well, FWIW, I say use the real leather, then for the buttons, Insect pins, #1 or 2, depending on the relative size, dip the head in red lacquer, letting them dry. That'll give you a solid red "button" while providing the anchoring for the tufting. Regarding the piping, you can try using some bright red thread. Not sure what size would be best suited, but red thread can be glued to the edges and along the lines to look like real piping.Need an opinion...the seat.
Its a very complicated button tuft..I don't know if I can do it in real leather...
I could paint it using putty and I guess small beads like another guy did.
Or I could kind if do it in real leather...
This is what its supposed to look likeView attachment 168174
There ya go- that'll work too.Im..working on it..its..very..difficult..but I'm almost there.
Think I'll use tge lead wire for piping...it keeps its shape
Can't go wrong with a FanttikBought a mini drill..have to try that out later when its charged...View attachment 167275View attachment 167276View attachment 167275