Alclad

geegad

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Jun 8, 2011
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Just brought some of this paint and I just wondered 1 do have to thin it down and 2 before I put it in my pride and joy air brush how do I clean it out


Many thanks for Any help that is given


Geegad
 
Alclad comes pre-thinned, so just pour it and shoot. It's a lacquer, so just use some lacquer thinner to clean up
 
It does need a primer or base coat however, semi gloss or gloss white, gray or black depending on the color you are using.
 
Carsenault said:
It does need a primer or base coat however, semi gloss or gloss white, gray or black depending on the color you are using.

This is very important! It is a lacquer, and that can eat up plastic. A primer coat will protect your model from the paint.
 
Just make sure its not an acrylic or water based Primer ;) The Alclad will lift it .!!

Chris.
 
Simply not true, I have successfully put Alclad over both acrylic primer and acrylic paint with no ill effects. Secret is to make sure your previous coat, no matter what it is made of is completely cure before proceeding.

if it isn't cured, sure, but otherwise should be no problem. Even if it is another lacquer coat, or enamel coat, if it wasn't cured I am sure Alclad would lift it (as would pretty much any other lacquer based paint) also, but once cured should be good to go for an Alclad treatment.
 
ive put it over acrylic primers and paints and its still were i put it :)
 
GEE,

I've recently used AlClad & had great results. I actually used Their Primer, & Base Gloss Black. They also make an Aqua Gloss Clear ( it's acrylic ) - You may ask yourself ... "what's th difference between that & Future". ... The Aqua Gloss Clear is thinner than th Future & it goes down a lot easier.

SCOTT is correct about letting the base coat fully cure. I had talked to th AlClad Factory Rep. & while using Their Gloss Black Base he suggested letting it cure for 4-6 days , as it's an Enamel/Lacquer base paint. If you don't let it cure fully then you run th risk of the AlClad cracking as it cures, b/c the Base coat will shrink ( Enamel & Lacquer) as it cures, thus leading to the Cracking of the AlClad on top of the Base Coat. You are also gonna want to use some Very Fine Sand paper/Micro Mesh to smooth out the Finish of the Base Coat. ALClad will Show any blemishes on it. It goes on Very Thin ! Also ... You will want to coat the Finished product to protect the Chrome of Metallic finish. I used Their Aqua Gloss Clear with Great Results & I was able to use some 3M Blue Painters Tape( Low Tack) & with th Aqua Gloss protector coat the Chrome didn't come off with th tape.

You also wanna shoot th AlClad @ 12-15 psi & Mist it on & I do mean Mist. Check Their site out & any other Questions that you have you can drop them a note under "Contact Us" TONY is Great about answering Questions.
- http://www.alclad2.com/

Also here's a YOUTUBE Video that I found ... A Guy demo's how to shoot th Chrome on in short Misting bursts.

Tutorial : Chroming with Alclad
See how He uses the short Bursts . That's th way to do it.

Here are some Pix of My Opel Admiral that I painted with AlClad

AdmiralquarterfrontshotClose.jpg
AdmiralFrontheadon.jpg
If you look Close you can see th Reflection of theBumper in the Paint on th car.

DSC08382.jpg
AdmiralRearQuartershot.jpg

Here's th Method that I used on th Opel :
AlClad Black Primer/Microfiller
" " Gloss Black Base - let cure for 6 days
" " Chrome - I only misted 2 coats on ! ANy more & you run th risk of making the Chrome "Cloudy"
" " I misted 2 coats of the AlClad Aqua Gloss Clear - let cure for 24 hours & then I taped off the Chrome Pieces- Grill, Body Chrome, * The Hub Caps were painted off of the Car
AlClad Transparent Red - I misted 3 coats on the Body & the n removed the Tape
" " Aqua Gloss Clear - I misted 2 coats on the Entire Car ( minus the Clear parts) & let cure for 24 hours - & That was it. I was very happy with th way that it came out. There is some slight Orange Peel in the finish, but that was My Fault as when I shot the Gloss Black Base , at times I held th AB too far away from the Car. The Peel had shown through the Chrome & th Transparent Red ... Something that I didn't think would happen .. but that's just how thin th Chrome & Red AlClad goes on !!

;D

I hope that Helps ....
 
Elm City Hobbies said:
Simply not true, I have successfully put Alclad over both acrylic primer and acrylic paint with no ill effects. Secret is to make sure your previous coat, no matter what it is made of is completely cure before proceeding.

if it isn't cured, sure, but otherwise should be no problem. Even if it is another lacquer coat, or enamel coat, if it wasn't cured I am sure Alclad would lift it (as would pretty much any other lacquer based paint) also, but once cured should be good to go for an Alclad treatment.

Hi Scott ,

While I agree with what you are saying ,making sure the primer is cured is not the only problem . Im assuming you are applying the Alclad as its ment to be applied ...ie in mist coats ,that being the case the paint is just about dry as it hits the surface and probably will have no ill effect .However if the Alcad is applied a bit 'wet' it can and probably will start to react with an underlying acrylic .Alclad is a 'Hot' paint very similar to Cellulose ,and in the painting world putting cellulose over an acrylic has always been a no no as it can lead to problems ....believe me I've seen the results over the years I've been a painter !
Again ,Im not saying it cant be done ,but its much better to use an appropraite primer to avoid any issues ;) I normally use Automotive single pack primer (which I get from work ::) ) I order it in 20ltr drums ,when the drum is empty I thin out whats left in the bottom with a drop of cellulose ...it does me for ages ;D It has no ill effect on the plastic or resin ,but again thats because its being applied in light coats .

Chris.
 
And similar to Testors Lacquer spray paints (which are pretty hot in their own rights), I have put both those and Alclad over Vallejo Primer, Vallejo Paint, Tamiya paint, all of which are acrylic...with no ill effects, as long as the previous coat was cured. Testors lacquers right from the can over the same paints, with no ill effect either. I mean sure, if you flood it on excessively, I am sure it is going to cause problems, but put on properly in multiple light coats, should have no problem.

Heck, even an enamel over an uncured lacquer base, or visa versa, a lacquer over an uncured enamel base, you are going to have problems also.
 
Out of all the paints you mention there Scott ,the Vallejo Paint is the one that suprises me !! Tamiya isnt a true acrylic (it can also be thinned with cellulose ) and if Im correct Vallejo primer is a Poly ? ,but Im suprised you had no problem spraying over the Vallejo paint ! I've never tried that ,I always removed it first .

Chris.
 
:eek: nice video ! but if he COULD stay in place .... ? but I get the gist of it !

I had great success with the Chrome! The Base coat is the Key! or the effect won't be the same as intended ! Sometimes it could play in our favor! Depending on the subject!!

The product is darn expensive here... Like 15$ a bottle... not cheap!

But the result speaks for themselves...... WOW !
One think I found ! You need to thoroughly clean your Airbrush and flush it and then, flush it some more…
I painted some Flat black after and could still see faint silver particles in my paint… don’t be surprised if you do ! That stuff is Superfine!!! a really nice product !

take care and hope you enjoyed your Alclad Experience ?
 
Hey guy's couldn't help but notice this, You guys are correct the base coat is key. I won't blather about it I'll just show some pics of a '47 I did years ago using the alclad gloss black with chrome over top, bear in mind I used a whole bottle on one aircraft.



Tamiya XF-19:




IMG_2588.jpg




Alclad gloss black: (you have to let this stuff dry for at least 72 hrs which can be problematic in regards to dust, I put a box cover over it.)


IMG_2601.jpg



Alclad Chrome:

IMG_2605.jpg


publicspeakingassembly275.jpg




Light misty coats at 12-15 PSI is the key, or you will get crazing. This last shot has a brushed on coat of future over it and I used some duller shaded aluminum on some of the panels.
 

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