You have it so try it .
Some of these acrylics don't do alcohol .
I just test some Vallejo model color with isopropyl alcohol and it makes it coagulate and turn to snot .
Vallejo's thinner and that Golden have no alcohols in them .
That thinner you're using -- even though they say it works with Vallejo -- may be what is causing those blobs .
Heck , thin it with just water and see what you get .
The manufacturers don't need to be the same but the chemistry needs to be compatible .
Give me the SKU number for that Testors thinner so I can pull up the SDS for it .
I forgot how much Testors website sucks
Ok. I think i scewed up. The testers worked a little better on practice piece of plastic. But since i have already screwed up the priming part of this model what i am showing you is paint over bad priming job. So i think the damage was already done before the first coat of paint? Sorry for wasting your time. But you showed me alot. TY
If you want to start over you can easily remove all that acrylic including the primer by using isopropyl alcohol .
I use the 91% isopropyl from the drugstore / grocery .
I told Beeblebrox here on the site about this years ago and he never hesitates now to remove a bad paintjob or colors he doesn't like and start over .
In fact ,he just did it on the flying car he's working on : https://www.scalemodeladdict.com/threads/hasegawa-vanship.14036/#post-208478
Good morring. Have you ever used a airbrush paint like this. FS 35526. It's an acrylic and lacquer base. It was the Studio color for Voyager. But could not get it to flow. Dose this mean i have to thin with lacquer?
Good stuff .
Best to thin with their Real Colors High Compatibility Thinner , which is alcohol base with retarder ( propylene glycol )
Tamiya's X-20A thinner , and their paints , are compatible in their chemistry , both being lacquer acrylics .
I've never tried lacquer thinner with it .
Lacquer thinners vary bigtime by manufacturer and modern versions like those sold at general hardware or big-box stores have become mostly acetone / methanol mixtures with little to no other volatiles and solvents like butyl acetate .
You'd need to go to a paint supply if you need a particular solvent profile .
You can try some lacquer thinner if you have it on hand and see how the paint performs . On scrap of course .
I know people use regular lacquer thinner with the Tamiya paints .
That AK Real Colors requires very little thinning , and I can spray it without thinning with a . 65 mm spray tip .
But , I always put a couple drops of their thinner in .
Denatured alcohol would probably work too . ( methanol / ethanol )