Airbrush problem/backfeed?

BLT

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Feb 25, 2021
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293
Absolutely! I need to pick up some cellulose thinner to try for cleaning. I've used Model Masters thinner, and rubbing alcohol to thin Tamiya paints, but their lacquer thinner makes their acrylics spray/lay my favorite way so far. (and while the Tamiya Lacquer thinner doesn't make it very shelf stable, it does work for spraying Mr. Hobby Lacquers)

You can mix and match chemicals, but I've found I get the most consistent and quality results (the first time, or close too) by using add-ins designed by the same company that makes the paint... or at least designed to be used with a specific paint. And NOT having to strip things to redo them, as well as NOT having to do more than thinning a paint for pigment prep, is worth it to me. But that is intrinsic value, every one has their own means and assigns their own worth to what they buy/use.

I'll spend a bit more coin to spend more time doing, and less time prepping, fixing, and making work arounds any day.


Follow up, is this the thinner you use, and if so, do you use it with Tamiya Acrylic? Or Something else?
View attachment 90964
Yes that's the thinner... But I only use it with Mr surfacer... It's expensive as $*#@. I buy the 400ml bottle from a polish hobby shop.
 

Marktastrophe

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Nov 19, 2021
Messages
297
Currently soaking my AB in 99% alcohol, I am finding out I should not have tried to re-use my old packing nut...So much dried paint everywhere. All the way back into the Needle holder and locking nut.
 

BLT

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Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
293
I usually just pull the needle and flush the entire thing from the locking nut...

Granted that hits the air valve as well, but I do add glycerin to my cleaner.
 

Marktastrophe

Active Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
297
I usually just pull the needle and flush the entire thing from the locking nut...

Granted that hits the air valve as well, but I do add glycerin to my cleaner.
If I would've figured out the lingering symptoms sooner, this probably would've worked. But it's been weeks since the packing nut incident, lol.
 

Marktastrophe

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Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
297
After roughly 24 hours soaking in 99% Isopropyl, I had acrylic floaties in my container, and swabbing the thing I found more paint in the needle carrier, packing nut threads (in main body) and needle threads (also in main body).
PXL_20220412_154703811.jpg
Look at all of that black primer and green tones... I blame Godzilla for this, lol. (JK, I know it's my fault)

Expecting a better time using this after reassembly now, lol.
 

golgotha

New Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Messages
17
After roughly 24 hours soaking in 99% Isopropyl, I had acrylic floaties in my container, and swabbing the thing I found more paint in the needle carrier, packing nut threads (in main body) and needle threads (also in main body).
View attachment 90989
Look at all of that black primer and green tones... I blame Godzilla for this, lol. (JK, I know it's my fault)

Expecting a better time using this after reassembly now, lol.
T
After roughly 24 hours soaking in 99% Isopropyl, I had acrylic floaties in my container, and swabbing the thing I found more paint in the needle carrier, packing nut threads (in main body) and needle threads (also in main body).
View attachment 90989
Look at all of that black primer and green tones... I blame Godzilla for this, lol. (JK, I know it's my fault)

Expecting a better time using this after reassembly now, lol.
A much quicker way is to purchase an Ultra-sonic Cleaner. Prices have really fallen and small hobby friendly units are to be found in modelling suppliers and on the Web. I first used them in the jewellery trade in a friend's workshop back in the 80s. I used to help him with easier tasks when he was really flat out and the magic cleaner was superb. Especially when I used to give my airbrush a real deep clean. John
 

Marktastrophe

Active Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2021
Messages
297
T

A much quicker way is to purchase an Ultra-sonic Cleaner. Prices have really fallen and small hobby friendly units are to be found in modelling suppliers and on the Web. I first used them in the jewellery trade in a friend's workshop back in the 80s. I used to help him with easier tasks when he was really flat out and the magic cleaner was superb. Especially when I used to give my airbrush a real deep clean. John
I never thought I had a need for one until now! I'll definitely give those a gander.
 

BLT

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Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
293
I never thought I had a need for one until now! I'll definitely give those a gander.
That is an option of course... But dailing in your cleaning method should steer you clear of the problem in the future...

Knowing when, how and with what to clean... Should be sufficient.
 

Little Cutie

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Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
173
" Acetone is a solvent based alcohol .. " - No.

" Spray cans don't always atomize the best and stop spraying after a while - especially RUST-O-LEUM brand paint!! " - No

" I only use thinner when I have to spray a light coat that is not meant to be touched ever once assembled. " - WTF

" Trust experience over hype " - OK

Do you even know what is in Vallejo acrylic thinner ?

Decanting aerosol spray cans is far from efficient -- aside from the monetary end , you're boiling off solvents that are a portion of the mix that factor into the performance of the paint ( not talking about the propellant , I'm talking about solvents like butyl acetate etc )
I see that you don't agree with me - that's too bad because I DO know a little more than you do about paints and their solvents. I went to school for this as I used to be an industrial painter. I had to be certified in HAZMAT, ISO 9000, First-Aid, CPR, and know both paints and their formulations as the solvents that they're made from. Acetone is an alcohol as it flashes off quickly as is dissolved easily in water. It's more stable than MEK which is (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). This is the main cutting ingredient in lacquer thinner. It WILL destroy the seals in your airbrush. Ispoprynol is also alcohol that is solvent based as opposed to wood bore alcohol which is what Ispropyl alcohol is. There are two atoms to most paints that make up the base itself. However there is a more complex chemistry to their solvents than most people realize.

I only spray things that are made to be looked at with a light coat - meaning that if it needs a smooth finish I thin it if it needs to be perfectly flat. Gloss paints on the other hand I wet-sand and butt out. I trust my experience over hype means that everyone trusts manufacturers' words over what is true about their product. They insist that you use theirs only. This is so that they can make more money selling to the few that still buy them. They are trying to encourage you and at the same time persuade you to buy THEIR BRAND when another brand or alternative chemical will do the same job - in this case denatured alcohol work great with acrylics. I know this because I'VE DONE IT.

Also Rust-O-Leum brand paint DOES stop spraying after a while - I have a few cans that I can send you if you don't believe me. Most of them stopped after a couple times spraying. I've had them do this right away, or after a week or two or even a month or even after a year! I have other brands of paint that I have had FIVE or more years that still spray the same as when I bought them. What you mainly smell with acrylics is the isopropynal and isobutane while spraying. The acrylic you can smell too along with xylene or xylol which have alcohol properties (chemically hot to the touch when absorbed through the skin) and are the main ingredients which help the paint to flow and have to de-gas when drying. This is why you don't want to get it on your skin. Although the pigment may not absorb the chemicals that are the binders (base) will.

I wouldn't make this up or lie to you - what's the point? I don't work for any paint manufacturers or subsidiary industries. I have no vested interest in doing so here or anywhere else. I simply don't want anyone to think that they need to buy a brand name just because it's also on the label of the paint or glue that you bought. You don't buy Tamiya brand glue only - do you? Any superglue will suffice. It's the chemical formulation in the products that you use - not the name on the label that make them useful. Do you know what OIL OF MUSTARD is? How about TULOL or TOLUENE? This is what regular model glue is. No one uses it now - or at least no one that I know but superglue has now become the norm for most modelers and no one has died from it yet.
 

Little Cutie

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Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
173
Well that's a brazen claim to make about anyone you've only ever met via screen name, lol.
Well words are like weapons sometimes - you show what you know. I wouldn't say it if it weren't true. Most people aren't aware of the chemical properties of the things they use to wash their hands with or brush their teeth. It's the same with every day household chemicals and industrial solvents. I know what's in them - I don't recommend getting them on your skin or breathing the vapors from them. You see commercials for medicines that cause health problems that you don't even have! The side effects are sometimes DEADLY - the cure is worse than the disease!!! o_O
 
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