Airbrush problem/backfeed?

Tightening that packing assembly seems to have done it.
The "non-essential" O-ring does make the brush more comfortable in hand IMO as well.

Just have to locate some lube now, because my air valve is sticking open.
 
Did you clean the air valve ?
Blow-by paint will collect around the top of the valve and gum it up .
I've never lubricated the one on my AB . - It's never a problem unless paint gets by that packing gland .
 
Did you clean the air valve ?
Blow-by paint will collect around the top of the valve and gum it up .
I've never lubricated the one on my AB . - It's never a problem unless paint gets by that packing gland .
I did clean it. I think it was a combo of the trigger rubbing and the air valve sticking. Seems good now.
 
Tightening that packing assembly seems to have done it.
The "non-essential" O-ring does make the brush more comfortable in hand IMO as well.

Just have to locate some lube now, because my air valve is sticking open.
I use sowing machine oil... Garantied acid free.

I used an old Batcher copy of an airbrush for 25 years, I swear I never had it stick, gum up or anything... And it was seriously dirty. Then I went and got me a harder Steinbeck... Oh my, the walve got stuck, paint got everywhere and it gummed up on me constantly.

I guess my point is... We learn all the time. And me lesson is, an expensive airbrush doesn't make me a better painter, it does however require me to be a lot more diligent with my maintenence. LoL.

BTW I was thinking... A lot of guys spray with the tip bare, whitout the protective nosle so they can remove dry paint with the finger nails every time they stop spraying. Just a heads up.
 
" A lot of guys spray with the tip bare, whitout the protective nosle so they can remove dry paint with the finger nails every time they stop spraying. Just a heads up. "

Huh ?
 
" A lot of guys spray with the tip bare, whitout the protective nosle so they can remove dry paint with the finger nails every time they stop spraying. Just a heads up. "

Huh ?
I do that already. I haven't had the "Protective Cap Crown" (part name according to spraygunner.com) on it since the first use.
That being said I found treasure!
At Grandma's I found:
PXL_20220219_012534837.PORTRAIT.jpg
After looking, it appears you can still buy 99% online, but still a fun find.

And in the box of stuff from an old coworker I found some Vallejo Flow improver!
I painted through 2/3 of a Vallejo Air jar without a single gum-up or tip wipe, even through refilling the canister 4 times. (This was after I said I don't think it's meant for this... but lets see what Tamiya Retarder does to Vallejo Acrylics... It made jelly, lol... then I got to use this 99% isopropyl!)
 
There's really not much difference in 91% and 100% isopropyl when using it for AB cleaning purposes .
The 100% is made for cleaning electronic components or other items that can't be exposed to any water .
You can get 100% iso online , Amazon has it , but it's way more expensive for no advantage in this application .
You can use denatured alcohol too . Any alcohol .

I always have a needle cap on the air-cap ( crown or barrel ) -- if you drop the thing without it , the needle tip is toast .
Or accidently bump the tip against something ...

For me , the dry-tip clogging ALWAYS occurs at the needle / spray-tip , so removal of the air-cap is always necessary . The crown cap doesn't figure into it .
 
For me , the dry-tip clogging ALWAYS occurs at the needle / spray-tip , so removal of the air-cap is always necessary . The crown cap doesn't figure into it .
Before using this Flow Improver (keeping hopes high on it, lol) I kept the crown off, it is a dropping hazard, but I have a carpeted room and a brush hanger in my hood.

I would splash some airbrush cleaner on a t-shirt rag, and wipe the tip from the base of the cap to the tip as soon as I would notice it spit the tiniest bit, and that kept things moving. I may put the crown back on if I have a few more sessions of no need to wipe sprays with that improver though.

And the 99% bottle is more funny, it's pretty much like if you found a HEB brand bottle of alcohol sitting on an unexpected shelf. This bottle isn't THAT old though, expiration date of 2009 on it.
 
@urumomo Have you ever used the fan tip on your Talon? I used it for the first time recently. It's a large kit must for base coating sans rattle can.
 
All the time .
Using it currently to clear coat a base for that Armored Core build .
I use it for larger , non scale model stuff too .
 
All the time .
Using it currently to clear coat a base for that Armored Core build .
I use it for larger , non scale model stuff too .
Adding it to my list of "Things I really should've been less reluctant to try after owning" lol.
Most stuff I do is small though, still laughing at my own stubbornness a little for it though.
 
I think I'm going to buy another Talon - the whole setup with the 3 needles etc .
I bought the Badger Patriot thinking I would leave the Talon set up with the larger needle and use Patriot for smaller work , but I never use the thing .
I rarely use the smallest , 1/4mm tip for the Talon either .
So with 2 Talons . I can leave one set up with the .66 needle and one with the .38
 
I think I'm going to buy another Talon - the whole setup with the 3 needles etc .
I bought the Badger Patriot thinking I would leave the Talon set up with the larger needle and use Patriot for smaller work , but I never use the thing .
I rarely use the smallest , 1/4mm tip for the Talon either .
So with 2 Talons . I can leave one set up with the .66 needle and one with the .38
I would've gotten a second Talon, but I can't argue with free for the Badger. So far I've used the Talon for acrylics only, and tried to keep all of my solvent paints through the Patriot... but I may abandon that as I have a handful of spare O Rings and other spare parts now.
I may still keep the harsher stuff through the Patriot tough. I also had no idea what size needle my Patriot had since I didn't get the packaging with it :D. But yeah if you have preference for a .66 and .38 the .5 patriot kind of seems like a moot point.

.5 Can still base for most of the smaller scales/kits I work in. My biggest struggle is space to stage things for use since my workshop is my home office as well since COVID.
 
One thing I forgot to mention is when I pull the spray tip , before I pull the needle out I push it far forward and flush more water thru the cup .
Just to minimize the amount of any coating being drawn back thru the needle gland .
In theory , the properly tensioned gland would squeegee off any paint ,, but ...
 
When I flush... My airbrush that is... I pull out the needle and flush all the way from the tension screw...

That is why I lubricate regularly. Not often, like every 20 time or something like that. I do add a lubricant to my airbrush cleaner.
 
Get yourself a bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, and a bottle of Vallejo Flow Improver.

Then get yourself and empty bottle, mix 2 parts thinner, to 1 part Flow improver. Call this "thinning sauce"

You then use that mix, to thin your Vallejo paints.

Model Air/Game Air 4 parts paint, to 1 part thinning sauce
Model Color/Game Color, varies from color to color, but usually the opposite. As per, thin until a milk like consistency.
 
Get yourself a bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, and a bottle of Vallejo Flow Improver.

Then get yourself and empty bottle, mix 2 parts thinner, to 1 part Flow improver. Call this "thinning sauce"

You then use that mix, to thin your Vallejo paints.

Model Air/Game Air 4 parts paint, to 1 part thinning sauce
Model Color/Game Color, varies from color to color, but usually the opposite. As per, thin until a milk like consistency.
Thanks for the info! I should pickup some Vallejo thinner, but my solvent free water based acrylic thinner from model master is only like 1/3 left, lol.

I picked up this brand based on proximity,but will go Vallejo when I resupply.
 
Shouldn't it be enough to just use the vallejo brand... I mean, even tho I know full well what the different lequids essentially are, or should I say, ought to be... I generally just go with the brand thinner... Tamyia, Mr. Hobby and so on. Granted I do mix my own air brush cleaner... But that's it.
 
Hey, guys, very informative set of posts here. Thanks so much for clarifying some of the challenges with different AB paints. On a somewhat unrelated topic, what are the benefits of the various diameter AB needles? I usually use a .5mm but just bought another AB that has .2, .3 and .5 needles. What are each good for? TIA!
 

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