1/48 P-47 Thunderbolt - Tamiya "bubbletop"

[Edbert]

This little kit from Mr. T. is not the 2-sprue version like their Spitfire/Wildcat kits, there was a surprising number of parts for a small airplane. From what i could tell just by glancing was that there were three different propellors and multiple options for other versions. I know they have the razorback version and this the bubbletop, maybe they have others in mind.

So it was not exactly a shake-the-box and out comes a finished plane type thing, but as is expected from them it went together perfectly. I put a coat of gloss black Alclad primer down preparing to do a metal surface, just now realized I did not take any pictures. I wanted it to be shiny.

Mission accomplished! This is just after drying, before polishing with a cloth.

Actually mission not accomplished, this is gaudy and way too shiny. Will have to adjust that.

 

[Edbert]

Going back in time slightly, the interior was a breeze.

For the seatbelts I've never liked just a sticker, way too thin, and they sit so flat there's zero dimension. I've put them on tape before and wasn't pleased. Clear tape or masking tape are all too stiff, and marginally thick enough. So what I used here is lead film. Basically a foil, but technically from a Kodak film pack used by dentists before they all went digital for their x-rays. You can but a pack of expired ones on ebay, a lifetime supply for ~$10USD. They can be wrinkled and bent to get a good "lay". Just wash your hands, they are made of lead.

Since I'm risking my health with lead here, I put some lead thread (used to tie fishing lures) to put wiring behind the instrument panel. First time I've done this.

 

[Edbert]

Just a little pre-painting before sealing things up for the color coat.

That blob of sticky-tack is to protect those fuel-tank mounts, they are really small.

I didn't realize it until too late, but you can see in the last pic that I left the exhaust ports out by mistake. They were easy to install from the inside, but no way to do that now, DOH!

 

[Edbert]

I was able to dumb down the hyper shine, but sorta overdid the contrast.

Still using Alclad Lacquers here. Also showing a pic of my waterfall "booth", so far a huge fan, but nothing to really compare it to so that opinion is of lesser value.

Since the contrast over overdone, I knew that some clear coats and thin overcoats would subdue it enough.

There is is baking in the dehydrator.

 

[VegasAWACER13]

Nice work! Looking forward to seeing the completed build.

 

[Edbert]

My intent was to do the invasion striped and large insignias with paint. I feel like it is the trend, and with every build I want to push myself to try new things.

In all honesty, I think I'm about to ruin this build, but the destination is the goal not the waypoint.

 

[Littlemarten]

In all honesty, I think I'm about to ruin this build, but the destination is the goal not the waypoint.

I knew a guy, years ago, painted hinomaru (sp?) (Japanese insignia) by hand, with a paint brush. Perfect every time. So there's always the next level.

I doubt you'll ruin the build. And if you do, you'll find a way to salvage it, and learn something in the process. Sometimes the journey is the destination.

 

[Jakko]

Was he Leonard of Quirm, by any chance?

'(…) I'm sure Mr da Quirm draws lovely pictures, but I for one would need a little more evidence of his amazing genius before we entrust the world to his … device. Show me one thing he can do that anyone couldn't do, if they had the time.'
'I have never considered myself a genius,' said Leonard, looking down bashfully and doodling on the paper in front of him.
'Well if I was a genius I think I'd know it—' the Dean began, and stopped.
Absent-mindedly, while barely paying any attention to what he was doing, Leonard had drawn a perfect circle.

 

[Edbert]

I doubt you'll ruin the build.

"Ruin" is a strong word, and I am well known to be a stubborn man. I intend to recover this, but it looks like I did try to ruin it. I'm calling that a lesson (or 20) learned.

This lesson I will call "line up your damn masks you idjit"!

It also has some sort of lesson about paint shrinking and cracking days after it dries.

This lesson is about many things, learning why a lacquer paint on top of a lacquer primer on top of a MLT primer has various layers coming off via tape and sometimes vinyl.

Here's smaller case of two out of three items I named...

From a distance it looks better, but yeah...I have a lot to learn and practice! Sticker in 1/48 are where I should stay and if I want to paint insignias work on the 1/32 stuff.

 

[BarleyBop]

... I think you are just trying to put fear and angst into the heart of this prospective aircraft modeler!
I wouldn't even know where to start troubleshooting or lesson learning this situation!

But you'll figure it out, and Christmas will come as expected!

 

[Littlemarten]

This lesson is about many things, learning why a lacquer paint on top of a lacquer primer on top of a MLT primer has various layers coming off via tape and sometimes vinyl.

This is a lesson about paint-solvent compatibility. In your defense, the situation has gotten much more complex with the vast number of different systems available. Some definitions:

lacquer: a coating that forms a film by drying, only.

Paint: a coating that forms a film by curing, i.e., polymerization.

Hybrid lacquer-paint system: a product that combines a lacquer with a polymerizing material.

These systems are not necessarily compatible, even within a single product line.

lacquer thinner: a blend of solvents used as a universal solvent for lacquer coatings. It does NOT have a specific composition.

Many lacquer thinners will dissolve paint, even cured paint. They may also change the properties of a paint or lacquer coating previously applied. Other than simply dissolving the paint, they may cause the previously applied and fully cured coating to shrink as has happened here. This shrinkage will also reduce bond to the substrate. Once lacquer solvents, from a lacquer coating or other application have affected a dried or cured coating, it is likely that that coating will cease to perform as expected.

That appears to be what happened here.

When using both lacquer and paint (polymer) coatings on a surface, it is often a good idea to put a barrier coat between them. The barrier coat must not be susceptible to the solvent systems applied to it.

 

[Edbert]

I'm going to strip off the Tamiya acrylic markings (easy) and try to repair the Alclad metallic.

If I can get that done I'll try the stickers as Mr. T. intended.