ZM F-4E Early Phantom ll

[Rockin' Rob]

Should be okay, as Quick Shine is alcohol soluble, but appears impervious once dry. If you want to try it, check for compatibility with a paint hulk.

I checked out that quick shine. I can get that at Ace Hardware where I'm going to be tomorrow morning, God willing. Spray paints are getting expensive. Have you ever airbrushed it?

 

[Jakko]

no one's going to be walking upside down

That's only because they didn't sell any F-4s to Australia.

 

[Littlemarten]

I checked out that quick shine. I can get that at Ace Hardware where I'm going to be tomorrow morning, God willing. Spray paints are getting expensive. Have you ever airbrushed it?

I have but I didn't like the results—clear coats are notoriously difficult with an airbrush because without color, it's easy to apply too much or too little. I discovered that application with a wide brush works very well, as it levels very nicely, much better than Future did. One bit of advice if you do use the airbrush: Clean or refill the airbrush immediately. Once this stuff sets it can be a bear to remove.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

That's why I'm kind of not really worried but wondering what it will do what the quick shine will do to panel lines and stuff like that? Do you have to be real careful of it filling in the panel lines and stuff like that? Cuz I don't have that problem with Tamia clear. And 10 years down the road is it going to Yellow? I've never had any problems with Tamia clear yellowing

 

[Littlemarten]

That's why I'm kind of not really worried but wondering what it will do what the quick shine will do to panel lines and stuff like that? Do you have to be real careful of it filling in the panel lines and stuff like that? Cuz I don't have that problem with Tamia clear. And 10 years down the road is it going to Yellow? I've never had any problems with Tamia clear yellowing

I've never had a problem with it filling panel lines using my application method. As for yellowing, I haven't used it long enough to know for certain. According to their website, it is highly resistant to yellowing from UV exposure.

 

[Edbert]

Once this stuff sets it can be a bear to remove.

I found that to be true in the bowl. I didn't allow any to dry in the delicate areas. Alcohol and turpentine did nothing, but acetone ate it off, just in case you need to.

 

[Littlemarten]

I found that to be true in the bowl. I didn't allow any to dry in the delicate areas. Alcohol and turpentine did nothing, but acetone ate it off, just in case you need to.

Good to know. What alcohols did you try?

 

[Edbert]

Good to know. What alcohols did you try?

Grocery store 99% isopropyl.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Yep, good stuff. But you got to get the high percentage that 70% doesn't do jack.
The bottom is done so now I'm working on the topside. I had to take a break from stencil so I started on the main decals

 

[Littlemarten]

Grocery store 99% isopropyl.

I'm going to try 90%+ ethyl (Everclear™). I see to recall that's what I used, but I didn't write it down. If it works, the advantage is that it doesn't attack styrene.

 

[Glenn S]

Yep, good stuff. But you got to get the high percentage that 70% doesn't do jack.
The bottom is done so now I'm working on the topside. I had to take a break from stencil so I started on the main decals

That's looking great!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Washday

 

[BarleyBop]

Specially like the red stripe up from the star. Brilliant!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Specially like the red stripe up from the star. Brilliant!

Thank you. I would love to take full credit but, alas, it's just a decal

 

[BarleyBop]

it's just a decal

Just like horse racing, placement is everything!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Yeah, I gave up on the stencils. I did like half and most of the ones you get to see and I didn't like it one bit. Yeah it's got to be done but I was at the point where I almost put the model in the Box and up on the Shelf so I can build something new.

 

[Ron2]

Looking good!

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Thank you. Man I almost gave up. Those damn stencils just bugging the s*** out of me. I hope my next model I drag out of my stash has about six decals. I would be a happy individual. Perhaps a Panther Tank??

 

[Jakko]

Build a Soviet tank from ca. 1941–'42, they don't need any decals if you don't want to put any on.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Finally got the wash off. I don't know about that stuff. I probably put it on too thick and let it dry too long possibly. I let it dry for like 3 days. Not cuz I wanted to, cuz I was busy at other stuff. I had the scrub and soak the wash and I thought I was going to go right through and start taking off decals and paint but you got to love Tamia clear. It stayed impervious. So now I'm putting some oils on and getting the landing gear and doors on

 

[Jantk14]

What kind of wash did you use? I use a water clay based wash that comes off easily with a damp paper towel.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Ammo by m i g. Enamel wash for green vehicles. I think I just put it on way too thick

 

[Wig41]

I always have trouble with washes. Don't know if mine are really old or if I leave them on too long. Course, it doesn't help that I have several different brands and/or types (acrylic and enamel/lacquer) and have no recall of what I last used or how I did it.

 

[MRDuczz]

What kind of wash did you use? I use a water clay based wash that comes off easily with a damp paper towel.

I'm assuming that you're talking about Flory wash. I'm hesitant to use it because I still have trouble getting it to come off easily. Is there a trick to it?

 

[VegasAWACER13]

Ammo by m i g. Enamel wash for green vehicles. I think I just put it on way too thick

I just leave it on there long enough to dry, 30-45 minutes. Leave it on for several hours (or more) and it won't come off easily.

 

[Ron2]

Finally got the wash off. I don't know about that stuff. I probably put it on too thick and let it dry too long possibly. I let it dry for like 3 days. Not cuz I wanted to, cuz I was busy at other stuff. I had the scrub and soak the wash and I thought I was going to go right through and start taking off decals and paint but you got to love Tamia clear. It stayed impervious. So now I'm putting some oils on and getting the landing gear and doors on

Yeah I think three days is too long. I usually put it on for a few minutes or until it dries but often I don't let it get to the dry stage.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Yep. Way too long to let enamel dry. I agree. That enamel can dry pretty darn hard. And yes, usually I'll put it on and half an hour or so I'm wiping it off

 

[Rockin' Rob]

The plane is done. Nope. No pictures yet. It's out drying in the garage. Working on the canopy and a couple decals on the missiles and I'm done. Okay. Here's a teaser of when I was weathering

 

[Ron2]

The plane is done. Nope. No pictures yet. It's out drying in the garage. Working on the canopy and a couple decals on the missiles and I'm done. Okay. Here's a teaser of when I was weathering

Well that's just rude. Plane is done. No pics. WTH RR??? Ladder looks awesome! Haha.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Well that's just rude. Plane is done. No pics. WTH RR??? Ladder looks awesome! Haha.

Actually there's a reason for my madness. I never really liked weathering. I thought it screwed up my beautiful paint job nice and shiny with gloss. You know? Fresh from the factory. With this one I says I'll give it a go and by the time I got to oils and started using oils for a couple days? I realize what I've been missing and I think this is my best model yet so it deserves to be shown with everything attached to it. Yeah there's some mistakes. I didn't like the silver marker I used around the intakes and stuff but hopefully I fixed all that with the final product