Sherman III of 3 County of London Yeomanry, Sicily

[Richard55]

Very much so.Im off to a model show Sunday and im hoping i can get an Asuka Sherman.Fingers crossed guys.

 

[BarleyBop]

Fingers crossed

...and toes!

 

[Richard55]

...and toes!

Indeed pal.All the lil pinkies crossed.

 

[Richard55]

View attachment 156868

Thanks for Posting fella

 

[Richard55]

What i usually find is i go to a show in hopes of getting a particular model and wont find one,Telford in November is better for getting most things,Ive found an Asuka on Fleabay and made an offer.Its M4a2 DV like Jakkos but different tracks in one of the smaller Asuka boxes.

 

[Jakko]

One of those red-and-white boxes? They're the sort of cheap version that lacks things like etched parts, decals etc. (Not that the kit I used came with etched parts anyway.)

 

[Richard55]

One of those red-and-white boxes? They're the sort of cheap version that lacks things like etched parts, decals etc. (Not that the kit I used came with etched parts anyway.)

Hi Jakko.
Yes its one with mainly red on the box,I got it for just over 50,Id have to get aftermarket decals for Jim,Not so fussed about etch,Happy i managed to get one.Think it has different tracks as opposed to the T51s.So at least i dont have to worry getting one at the show but im sure i will get something else!!!

 

[Richard55]

This is the beasty.

 

[Jakko]

It has T49 tracks, which are also in your kit, going by the box top.

Looking at the photo, it's in pretty much the same configuration as Churchill: a DV hull, no protective pieces next to the gun barrel on the rotor shield, high turret lifting eyes, and single-piece round-nosed differential cover. The main differences are that it has T49 tracks and has been uparmoured (probably on the hull too, under the wooden planks) and it has the newer peep sight for the commander. I can't make out the track skids in the photo, though. I would guess they're the early type like I used, but finding another photo might tell you for sure.

 

[Edbert]

The main differences are that it has T49 tracks and has been uparmoured...

Is that what I see on the sides of the turret near the mantlet?

 

[Jakko]

It's the "raised" plate between the number 22 and the gun shield. There is a thin spot in the Sherman's armour there because for some incomprehensible reason the designers thought it would be a good idea to scoop out three areas on the inside of the turret front to accommodate the traverse gear:

That's a photo I took four years ago of a Sherman being restored to presentable condition, which is why it's olive drab rather than white on the inside: they just sprayed the whole tank with that, inside and out. The traverse gear itself is no longer present, which gives a good view of the thinned areas.

The extra turret armour could either be one curved plate or two smaller ones, side-by-side, with the front (larger) plate having its corner curved to fit the turret but both otherwise being flat. It's only ever on the right, of course — the left-hand side had full-thickness armour everywhere.

Later versions of the turret were cast with thicker armour here, and you can recognise those if you know to look for the shadow the thicker part cast at the bottom

 

[Richard55]

View attachment 156894

It has T49 tracks, which are also in your kit, going by the box top.

Looking at the photo, it's in pretty much the same configuration as Churchill: a DV hull, no protective pieces next to the gun barrel on the rotor shield, high turret lifting eyes, and single-piece round-nosed differential cover. The main differences are that it has T49 tracks and has been uparmoured (probably on the hull too, under the wooden planks) and it has the newer peep sight for the commander. I can't make out the track skids in the photo, though. I would guess they're the early type like I used, but finding another photo might tell you for sure.

An interesting discussion indeed.Im guessing the wood planks arent spaced away from the hull like some other Pacific ones with concrete added between the planks.I think you are right about the early type bogies.Definately not the ones with rollers on top like El alamein ones.

 

[Jakko]

Looking at the photo, I think they're right up against the hull appliqué plates, or perhaps slightly more spaced out than that. The bogies are definitely the later pattern with the return roller behind the bogie bracket, but it's the shape of the skid on top that's hard to make out.

 

[fantacmet]

As someone who does 3D printing I think 3D printed tracks could still be the way to go, but so many people who do printing are stuck on hyper elite brands of printers and believe only that brands resin will work. Or if they look at an engineering resin only look at the most expensive out therr, and disregard one of the oldest (and most affordable) players out there in terms of engineering resins.

If I were any good at designing track links I would definately consider trying my hand at this. For now I will stick with printing the same stuff Iceman does(we buy files from the dame people) and selling that and the various wheels I design. Someday......

 

[Richard55]

Looking at the photo, I think they're right up against the hull appliqué plates, or perhaps slightly more spaced out than that. The bogies are definitely the later pattern with the return roller behind the bogie bracket, but it's the shape of the skid on top that's hard to make out.

Yes i agree with Wood armour.Ive seen Lanmo doing a set for Iwo Jima 4a3s.I would do a Nightshift and make mine from Plasticard and make some wood effect.Ive had a closer look at bogie skids and they look like your model ones.Dont think they are the smaller skids ive got in my Dragon m4a2 kit.

 

[Richard55]

As someone who does 3D printing I think 3D printed tracks could still be the way to go, but so many people who do printing are stuck on hyper elite brands of printers and believe only that brands resin will work. Or if they look at an engineering resin only look at the most expensive out therr, and disregard one of the oldest (and most affordable) players out there in terms of engineering resins.

If I were any good at designing track links I would definately consider trying my hand at this. For now I will stick with printing the same stuff Iceman does(we buy files from the dame people) and selling that and the various wheels I design. Someday......

If you could do 3D tracks i think you would be onto a winner winner fella.I dont own or have the space for 3d set up.So if i bought files id have to find a printer buddy in the U.K.
Richard

 

[Jakko]

There are 3D-printed tracks you can buy, both as the actual parts and as STL files for you to print out yourself. Some companies (well, one that I know of) even offer workable tracks printed already "assembled" so to speak:

My brother has a 3D printer, so I bought one of those STL files and asked him to print a few as a test, but the result was, shall we say, not great. I suspect it was because of a poor choice of resin and/or printer settings, but the outcome was I had links I couldn't put together at all.

 

[Richard55]

There are 3D-printed tracks you can buy, both as the actual parts and as STL files for you to print out yourself. Some companies (well, one that I know of) even offer workable tracks printed already "assembled" so to speak:

View attachment 156985

My brother has a 3D printer, so I bought one of those STL files and asked him to print a few as a test, but the result was, shall we say, not great. I suspect it was because of a poor choice of resin and/or printer settings, but the outcome was I had links I couldn't put together at all.

Ooops.I know a couple of guys who do 3D printing but its a lot to ask them to print stuff like tracks,Dave who used to be on Scale models was the 3D man,Sad to see he isnt around and not posting,Many have the feeling he sadly passed as nobody can reach him.

 

[fantacmet]

I have a set of Panzer IV tracks for printing. Doesn't take long or much resin to print enough for a build. I dont know the license on them. Ill have to check. As a heads up for those who do print Siraya Tech resins are engineering resins(strength and durability) and dont have to be used straight, you can add as a percentage to other resins, I add about 10% to Anycubic transparent resin and the result is fantastic. Even 5% would eliminate the brittleness. The cost of their resins is far below what ither engineering resins cost and in my opinion and experience they work better too.

 

[fantacmet]

Well I just checked and at least on some of them there is no license fees, I can print and sell. So I may just go ahead and end up refining the resin and print settings and start selling.

 

[Jakko]

Dave who used to be on Scale models was the 3D man,Sad to see he isnt around and not posting,Many have the feeling he sadly passed as nobody can reach him.

There must be some way to reach him, though. Problem is he's got a bit of a common name, of course.

 

[Richard55]

Well I just checked and at least on some of them there is no license fees, I can print and sell. So I may just go ahead and end up refining the resin and print settings and start selling.

Go for it dude.Worth a punt i say.Ull get there im sure.

 

[Richard55]

There must be some way to reach him, though. Problem is he's got a bit of a common name, of course.

I think somebody contacted Wardys neighbour.Last i saw was him recovering after cancer operation.I believe he lived alone and kept himself to himself and i cant blame him.Streets here arent great bud.

 

[Richard55]

Im hoping to get another Sherman at show tommorow..Ideally i want to do the types U.K used,Sherman1 has always interested me.From memory i believe they were Baldwin direct vision ones and ALCO welded hull ones.Shame that Asuka doesnt do a straight M4 welded hull.I kniw TMD does a resin one but trump stopped U.K posting etc.Somebody said if i got the welded hull m4a2 from Dragon it has welded hull and sort of ALCO glacis.But the engine deck and angle of rear hull plate might be off.Baldwin DV hull plates were vertical from memory.But as yiu know im a Sherman nerd but hey its fun and a great subject.
Richard

 

[Jakko]

Getting those kinds of details right is half the fun

 

[BarleyBop]

half the fun

... so you're a "glass is half full" kinda guy?!

Some would say it's "half the frustration"!

 

[Jakko]

I definitely don't subscribe to the "glass half full" philosophy Nor to the "glass half empty" one for that matter — I do consider myself a pessimistic realist, though, on the basis that this is the way to not be let down more than necessary

 

[Jakko]

OK, back to this model Continuing with the stowage on the front:

Starting with the tow cable, that's an eye from one of my spares boxes with some nylon string. The D-clasps on the towing eyes should be in this kit, but once again they're in the sprues that were missing in mine, so these are also from a spares box — though they do come from an Asuka Sherman. Nearly all of those break when you try to fit them to the towing eyes, BTW. The best way to get them on in one piece is to cut away the locating pen on one side, that way you can get them in place well enough.

The plank on the ammunition box was fun … not. Somebody with better perception than me noticed that the clasps for the lid are missing on the box on the real tank, and reasoned that the plank is there to keep the lid on: it's stuck through the handles, and with a raised ledge on one end, those can't slip off. After removing the box from the model, I made the handles from copper wire, but the first flew off to whoknowswhere, so I had to make another two rather than just one. I then cut away the clasps and handles on the resin box and made a plank, only to discover it was slightly too wide for the handles. While correcting that, I suddenly noticed one of the handles had gone missing again. I had to build four of those things to get two onto the model, which is something I don't enjoy doing at all

The spare wheel isn't glued on yet, because something was underneath it in the rack but I've not worked out to my satisfaction yet what that was. I'm leaning to a couple of grousers, which were normally stowed in the rear of the hull. Incidentally, I did fill the openings the wheel arms with putty here, because I had no more spare arms without — if I did, the person I got the spare from wouldn't have had to send it to me The grey rod in it comes from the Takom wheel arms that I put into the bogies last week.

And on the back, I added five bolt heads made with a punch-&-die set:

Until July 1942, all Fisher-built M4A2s had eleven bolts there instead of the later six. Because Churchill is a fairly early tank, I think it might have had eleven, too.

 

[Jakko]

Almost there …

The tarp on the side is more foil from the Aldi chocolate bar, and the short side of the wrapper was just about exactly the length of the rolled-up tarp on the real tank. So, I rolled up a piece of it and tied it to the tank with thread. Easier said than done, but a drop of superglue on the knots does wonders

Now the whatever-it-was that was in the rack below the spare wheel, perhaps the other thing that hung off the rail, and of course to finish the tracks.

 

[Richard55]

Looking great.Nice additions jakko and really taking shape.I did manage to get a Tasca boxing today at the model show.Its the U.K cast hood Sherman 3 Normandy which i git for 40 pounds so i left happy.One trader had fair few Old Bison Decal sheets but i forgot to go back his table.