1/200 USS IOWA

[BOATMAN]

brilliant

 

[paul-b]

Hi Kev, I noticed on another thread you put a pic up for rigging. Is there any actual detail on this? (I don't recal seeing anything in the instructions) or are you just referring to pictures?

How's it going?

 

[kevin]

No, the instructions have nothing about rigging.
I going to use this book as a guide when I get to that point.
It's a great reference book.

 

[BOATMAN]

brilliant

 

[paul-b]

Thanks Kevin, that's really usefull, I might just invest in the book anyway as I'm sure it'll be as useful for everything else !

 

[BarleyBop]

book as a guide

Nice! Those are fantastic references.

When I was finishing up my Hood Toon, and looking to add some rigging, I was surprised to find differences in the photographic record over the years.

Some of it probably the resolution and lighting of the photos themselves, but it sure seemed like the rigging changed over time.

The Easyline was great to work with!

 

[paul-b]

This is also a nice reference for ideas -

 

[Steve Ski]

Awesome progress, Kevin. Keep Ruckin, it's coming together.

 

[kevin]

Progress is slow, but it is being made.
This build reinforces the meaning of the saying " you can't see the forest for the trees" to me.

 

[BOATMAN]

YES you are right there Kevin but brillant build so far im likein it very much
chrisb

 

[domer94]

there was a guy on the FSM forum... his sig was "modelling is an excuse to buy books"... couldnt be more true. slow and steady... everytime you go to the bench she looks that much more like a ship...

 

[GCB]

No, the instructions have nothing about rigging.
I going to use this book as a guide when I get to that point.View attachment 148375
It's a great reference book.
View attachment 148377
View attachment 148378

Great book.. Will order it too!

 

[kevin]

With the weather getting better it's starting to cut into my bench time.
I did get a few hours in today......
Used some clear plastic for glass, a couple figures and some PE railings and ladders.




I'm having a hell of a time between using enough CA glue to hold the PE in place without knocking them free when painting, as opposed to using too much and having to clean up globs of dried CA glue without knocking them free.
At least I got a ton more PE to go to find a way to perfect the technique.

 

[BarleyBop]

... Hmmm, I've had similar CA issues, tried the thick, and now Gel. Nice thing about that is you can place it exactly where you want it, and it doesn't run away. It seems to take a bit longer to set, but that can have it's advantages too.



BTW, the figures look amazing!
Instant scale reference!

 

[kevin]

I might try that Gorilla glue, not happy with what I have been using.

 

[BOATMAN]

HI Kevin that S/S looks brilliant very well done sir an tomake sure your P/E stays atcched when i fit it i ude normal C/A an then give it a spray of
chrisb

 

[Edbert]

It seems to take a bit longer to set, but that can have it's advantages too.

For particularly troublesome bits I have used my right hand to place the part and my left to spray some accelerant. No negative results that I can see from the accelerator being on painted plastic or brass, but scary enough to not do it all the time.

 

[BarleyBop]

accelerator

... I sometimes do that, or just add a droplet with an applicator. Per @Jakko , just breathing on it as if cleaning your glasses gets enough water vapour on it to often do the trick; I tried it, it worked for me.

 

[domer94]

With the weather getting better it's starting to cut into my bench time.
I did get a few hours in today......
Used some clear plastic for glass, a couple figures and some PE railings and ladders.

View attachment 149552


I'm having a hell of a time between using enough CA glue to hold the PE in place without knocking them free when painting, as opposed to using too much and having to clean up globs of dried CA glue without knocking them free.
At least I got a ton more PE to go to find a way to perfect the technique.

had the same issues... i primarily use "gators grip" for PE now... gives you some working time, dries clear. easily applied with toothpick. i had found some specialty "Photoecth" glue on ebay (comes from UK) , but after using it i think its the same stuff.

 

[blakeh1]

One tip for photoetch in some of the instructions I had for Eduard sets I think was to use white glue to give you working time, then go back with the CA

My own variation on that has been to use that Testor's clear canopy glue to get in place and get a foot hold and then strengthen with CA

the testors stuff is also super easy to clean up while it is drying in case it gets on other parts of the model