Zoukei-mura 1/32 Fw 190 A-4

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I'm guessing this is really old school, but lead wire can be just the thing in some circumstances, easily shaped, doesn't fight when you try to place it, you can adjust the bend after gluing both ends.
But it is delicate, and you may be wary of handling it.
From my 'wire and hose' drawer, everything from aftermarket wallet squeezers to twist ties and discarded guitar strings!

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What do y'all think should I continue or stop before I screw it up?
That braided wire, are the ignition leads to the spark plug?

I'm not really knowledgeable about radials but I thought in WWII they were one per cylinder and centered, under that little fitting from the valve covers.
 
Oh yeah. Two plugs per cylinder. And I'm working towards that little collection like that of all odds and ends for wiring. I ordered some wiring and what I really wanted was on back order but we'll see. Started on the cockpit. I don't know if I want to paint every little thing when it's just all going to be hidden. Don't get me wrong. I love building. The more pieces the better. I just don't know if I want to waste time painting something that I'll Never See. Shoot. I remember building the revelle B-29 all that work and paint that went into the inside and you don't see none of it through the little window for the Gunner. Anyways. Here's some more pictures. Right now I'm just cleaning things up getting ready for primer

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Ha! That's how much I don't know about nice plane kits! You skin the wings!
Back in the day, the kits I built as a kid had clamshell wings. 2 parts glued together!
Very cool
 
You said it!
I was reminded of my only balsa wood plane build, around 18"-24" span I think, a Spitfire...
... and the look on my mom's face when I announced I had to go buy some dope!
 
Working on the wing
I am so in love with ZM, crazy since I've yet to finish one, but they are incredible kits!

I'm wondering if you have experience with "Kotare" or "Great Wall Hobby", they make some intricate and expensive kits too, just wondering how they compare to ZM.
 
I am so in love with ZM, crazy since I've yet to finish one, but they are incredible kits!

I'm wondering if you have experience with "Kotare" or "Great Wall Hobby", they make some intricate and expensive kits too, just wondering how they compare to ZM.
I've only been back into this Hobby for maybe a year. When I started back up I thought Revell was the top of the line models cuz that's all I built as a kid. And then I built an airplane by Tamia and was simply astounded that I thought revelle was top of the line. So I've tried ZM and Tacom. Lately though Tamia has gotten ridiculous about their prices. Yeah they're gorgeous great models but come on.

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I've only been back into this Hobby for maybe a year. When I started back up I thought Revell was the top of the line models cuz that's all I built as a kid. And then I built an airplane by Tamia and was simply astounded that I thought revelle was top of the line. So I've tried ZM and Tacom. Lately though Tamia has gotten ridiculous about their prices. Yeah they're gorgeous great models but come on.

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I'll have a talk with my homie, trump. Maybe he'll get them to bring the prices down?
 
The way ZM did the filets on the 190 looks much better than the 109.

The ones on the Raiden are weird, but they work, which is all that matters to me.
 
That engine looks great
Thanks. Now I'm having an issue with fitting the engine in with no gaps with the engine panels. I can't figure out what the hell went wrong. I followed instructions meticulously yet something is hitting somewhere or installed wrong where I'm getting millimeter and a half to 2 mm Gap. I'm going to have to take a break before I get out the flat hammer

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Hey BB? Two pictures of the instructions to show you can have access hatches to see your work.
Nice! I'm guessing this is not usually an option... perhaps only the better kits?
That first picture with the hammer nearly put me into shock!
I'm confident that you'll figure something out.

Cheers
 
Where exactly is the gap, top, sides, bottom? All of them?

I was going to suggest removing the MGs for more wiggle room, but you done did that.

You are being wise to set it aside and walk away. Sometimes I wake up at 3AM with a solution in mind.
 
Where exactly is the gap, top, sides, bottom? All of them?

I was going to suggest removing the MGs for more wiggle room, but you done did that.

You are being wise to set it aside and walk away. Sometimes I wake up at 3AM with a solution in mind.
Everything fit in perfectly just like the picture with my finger. It's when I started putting on the side pieces and the round front that I ran into trouble. I swear, it's almost like too much paint and just that little bit expanded it or swelled it or something to make it just not fit perfectly by a millimeter or two. And I airbrushed everything

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round front
... from this vantage point, looks like the only place with any leeway to shorten are the pins that secure the front, and then, only if there is any room between the front cowling and the engine, and the gap goes all the way around. Sheesh!

I know, don't be a backseat modeler...
 
Everything fit in perfectly just like the picture with my finger. It's when I started putting on the side pieces and the round front that I ran into trouble. I swear, it's almost like too much paint and just that little bit expanded it or swelled it or something to make it just not fit perfectly by a millimeter or two. And I airbrushed everything

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I read on another forum some times ago, and got stuck in my mind, that ZM kits have such tight fitting that even a thin layer of paint can create problems like yours.
 
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