Using X-22

[Rockin' Rob]

I used to always use the rattle can gloss clear to cover my models after body paint. I've never had a problem when I go to weather the plane on the Q-tip rubbing through into the body paint. I got several x22 bottles laying around so I decided to airbrush a gloss clear on my plane. I did. I didn't really soak it but I thought I got enough on. Just one coat. Not good enough. Q-tip rubs right through it now I got to touch up. My question is do you have to put down like three or four coats of this x-22? If that's so, and I expect it is, I'm just going to use rattle cans. A lot easier

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Wtf? People ask questions around here and they get answers. Quickly too. If I'm online and I see a question that someone has if I can answer it I will. What I don't get is I ask a ******* question and I get crickets

 

[urumomo]

lol
I don't use X22 so I have no experience with it .
What are you rubbing on it and how long did it cure before the rubbing adventure ?

 

[Rockin' Rob]

I let it cure for a day and then I put just a couple dots of black panel liner here and there just to see what it looked alike versus the light gray panel liner which I just put a couple Dots here and there. Let that dry overnight and then a Q-tip with testers enamel thinner on it smushed on a paper towel and I rubbed very lightly on the little black dot that I could see and almost immediately I could see black like there wasn't even a clear coat there. I did not put it on to the point where it was soaking wet like you get with a spray can. I thought I gave it a good coat but I'm just wondering if people just give it a good dusting and then soak it? But oh well I didn't hear anything for hours so I just went out back and got out the rattle can. Done

 

[urumomo]

maybe too thin a coat of the x22
?

 

[Rockin' Rob]

Yes, that's what I'm thinking. Cuz it's my first time using it through an airbrush. I've always used rattle cans with no problem. I was just thinking someone that has knowledge of x-22 and is used it before would come through but I guess I thought I was living in a perfect world. Ha. Thanks for responding

 

[urumomo]

I was waiting for someone that uses it to reply since I know it's popular here .
probably later this evening someone will add to this

 

[Rockin' Rob]

You know what I think Momo? If you don't mind me calling you that kind of short hand? I think it's a damn good thing I didn't take that plane and throw a wash over the entire thing. Wow. That might have been tragic

 

[Rockin' Rob]

I was waiting for someone that uses it to reply since I know it's popular here .
probably later this evening someone will add to this

Yeah. Everyone's probably watching football

 

[Jakko]

I read your question earlier tonight, and though I have used X-22, I never put it through an airbrush, so I didn't think I had much advice to give. The only real advice I have is that if I need gloss varnish all over a model, I do what you were doing: use aerosol cans

 

[BarleyBop]

someone will add to this

Hopefully with more to say than me! I have nothing useful to add, other than after a while, you get a feel for the rhythm of things around here...

 

[TimM63]

I use Tamiya paint almost exclusively. I have found it takes several coats of X-22 to build up enough for weathering.

 

[GCB]

I tried X22 and moved to Mr Super Clear cans... much easier.

 

[the Baron]

For those who are like me and don't know of the top off their heads what Tamiya's X-22 is, it's their acrylic gloss clear:

https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/paints/bottles/acrylic-paint-23ml/

I've never used it, so I can't speak to it. I use Future, of which I have half a bottle and that'll probably last me the rest of my life (I'm 61).

Maybe I can add general advice for this situation, that I wait long enough for the finish color to be cured before applying the gloss coat, I usually brush the gloss on by hand, since Future is self-leveling; I wait at least 24 hours for that to cure; and my washes for weathering are water-based acrylic (craft store brands Americana, Apple Barrel, and Folk Art) and water. I do like to use pin washes on panel lines.

Hope that helps!
Brad

 

[Rockin' Rob]

I use Tamiya paint almost exclusively. I have found it takes several coats of X-22 to build up enough for weathering.

That's the conclusion I eventually came to. At least two if not three or four coats. Nah. I'll stick to rattle cans for clear. I'll save the x22 for small parts

 

[the Baron]

I use Tamiya paint almost exclusively. I have found it takes several coats of X-22 to build up enough for weathering.

Do you apply it with an airbrush, Tim, or by hand?

 

[TimM63]

Do you apply it with an airbrush, Tim, or by hand?

I use an AB and usually apply 3 coats. Then I will wet sand using 2500 grit, then polish with compound and buffer.

 

[Edbert]

Dunno if anyone remembers my problems with weathering enamels and oils eating through an acrylic clear coat or not. I tried three major brand product with the same result. In the end I discovered the core issue was my habit of airbrushing very thin coats. That works well (for me) with color coats, but IT DOES NOT WORK WITH ACRYLLIC CLEARS!

It goes against my instincts but I have to nearly flood the surface with X-22 to get it to be bulletproof. I'm always worried about filling in surface details, so I use MLT to try and help. But based on what you described, without reading through the entire thread, I think that is the problem, the X-22 is too thin.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

That's exactly it. After experimenting that's what I found out. Also I found out that I'm a complete idiot. Well, not really. I mean this morning I was walking gum and chewing walking into Ace Hardware so I think I'm okay. Ha. But I took my hairier with all the bomb racks on it and took a spray can of clear and I thought I got it good but I completely forgot that rattle cans have a tendency to not get in the corners because of the air blowing I don't know but y'all know what I mean. So it wasn't completely thick enough of the clear. And I turn it over and I made some gray oil paint wash and slathered it all over it and I waited a bit and was going to put more on it and as soon as the brush touched the model it went right through to the primer. Oh crap. So I got a Q-tip thinking I'm going to soak up some of it and as soon as I touch the model it just took the paint right off so I stopped and let it dry overnight and believe it or not it don't look too bad right now

 

[RacerX]

I used to always use the rattle can gloss clear to cover my models after body paint. I've never had a problem when I go to weather the plane on the Q-tip rubbing through into the body paint. I got several x22 bottles laying around so I decided to airbrush a gloss clear on my plane. I did. I didn't really soak it but I thought I got enough on. Just one coat. Not good enough. Q-tip rubs right through it now I got to touch up. My question is do you have to put down like three or four coats of this x-22? If that's so, and I expect it is, I'm just going to use rattle cans. A lot easier

Hi Rob im here, what kind of paint are you using on the qtip, if its enamel you may want to try a clear acrylic lacquer clear. The enamel wont eat into it and it wont be a shiny coat, acrylic lacquer clear has to be buffed to be shiny.

 

[Edbert]

I should add that I found a cheap and mild artists thinner that seems safer on the X-22 than some others I tried.

Odor-free "StudioSolv" from Tusc & Pine.

 

[Rockin' Rob]

I used Tamia paints and lacquer paints exclusively for the base coats. Tamia rattle can gloss and flat finishes. So with that said if I do it right it's impervious to my enamels and oils. Usually. I just flubbed it by installing all the weapons pylons and then spraying on clear coat from a rattle can instead of using an airbrush and getting into every nook and cranny and there's a lot on a Harrier with the flaps down. And from now on the little x-22 bottles? They are going to be relegated for brush painting Smalls and spraying small stuff like missiles. I don't think I need to weather missiles. I mean I've never seen a aim 54c hanging off a weapons pylon with a glob of mud on the lens..