Primer primer everywhere

dkev

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Dec 5, 2012
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So I have a bit of an obsession on Primer. To me Tamiya Fine Surface primer is the standard. But at around $10 for a 6oz can, that's a bit too expensive.
Next is Krylon primer. Not bad but it's pretty rough and requires a lot of sanding and will cover fine detail. $5 for 12 oz can.
Krylon Camouflage with Fusion. Its ultra flat and dries fast. It also doesn't take much for solid coverage and doesn't cover detail. $6 for 12 oz can. Downside is the colors are dark. So a light base coat would need to be thick.
Rust-Oleum Plastic Primer. Just discovered it at Auto Zone. Sprayed it on some parts today so I'll update you. But it comes in white and covers very well. But it takes awhile to dry. Like an hour before you can even handle it. My guess is you need 24 hours of dry time before painting over. $6 for 12 oz.
Mr. Surfacer 1200. It's recommended that this is mixed with Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner if your gonna shoot it with an air brush. I actually like it to primer smaller kits. You could use it on larger kits depending on what air brush needle size you use I guess. It dries fast and will cover light scratches. $8 for a .40 ml bottle Mr. Surfacer 1200 and $18 for a 13.5 oz bottle of Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.
Vallejo Surface primer. I've used it once and never again. It's soft and does not bond well. I had to apply my base color over the primer then clear coat to keep it from peeling off during masking or just general handling of the kit. From what I have read, a lot of people experience the same issue. Too bad because I love Vallejo paints. If anyone else has a preferred primer they like, by a means chime in. ;D
 
I use nothing but Vallejo Primer, and believe me it isn't soft once it is cured properly. How soon after you put the primer on did you put the color coat...and what was the color coat?

Vallejo primer needs a clean surface, free of hand oils and mold release oils, spray it on, let it cure (24-48hrs) and it is like a rock once cured. One of the few paints that will give you fits trying to strip it off a model because it adheres so well.
 
I'm sure your probably right about that. I don't give any primer 48 hours. But Vallejo primer gives me no benefit to warrant that kind of cure time. Frankly your just spraying a name. The other products work just as well with far less cure time. But to each his own. ;)
 
I use Mr Surfacer 1000 most of the time, works great and cures fast. Also you can thin the thing by allot so a 40ml bottle will last a long time.
 
dkev said:
But Vallejo primer gives me no benefit to warrant that kind of cure time. Frankly your just spraying a name.

Frankly, it gives me a HUGE benefit: no solvents! I dig the results of Tamiya's rattle can, but that stuff is, by a wide margin, the most noxious finishing product I have come across in the world of modeling. Even the hardened Japanese masters, who otherwise will spray anything indoors, often without a booth or mask, take it out to the parking lot.

Maybe if I was modeling in Hollywood with deadlines, but as a relaxing hobby, cure times arnt even a consideration for me. And I love how forgiving the Vallejo formula is: its almost impossible to get runs (unless one is being overtly careless) and it shrinks down to a lovely tight smooth finish.
 
I use Tamiya Fine Primer in a can or Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya Liquid Primer airbrushed on.
 
Lots of benefits, little to no smell for one.

Any primer or paint, be it lacquer or acrylic, is going to take 24-48hrs to cure (usually 24hrs is fine) and enamel primers and paint much longer.

Tamiya and Mr. Surfacer is lacquer based, so has about the same cure time as Vallejo.

Vallejo is less expensive to buy, as well you use alot less of it because you are airbrushing it on as opposed to fogging on the other stuff wasting 1/2 of it in the process. Also easier to clean, and doesn't eat up the seals in your airbrush.
 
48h is over kill over night is plenty long enough or if you like me 1-2h and ive never had probs with it pealing like you say.

Vallejo is prob one of the better next to Tamiya, and goes a long way
 
I suppose it depends on what paint is going over top of it. If you are putting Vallejo paint over Vallejo primer, probably not much to worry about.

However putting a "hotter" paint over an uncured anything primer, and you are asking for problems.
 
It just must be the surface I applied it to. I tried the Vallejo primer again on a kit I am currently working on and so far, at least, I've not had any issues. We'll see how it is when I start masking. The kit I had issues with had clear styrene and it just would not bite. And don't get me wrong I love Vellejo so I would love for it to work.
 
do you mean somthing like Alclads as in being hot? if so ive not had that prob
 
spud said:
do you mean somthing like Alclads as in being hot? if so ive not had that prob

No, Alclad is a relatively cold lacquer. Something more along the lines of say Tamiya spray bombs, or actual automotive touch up paint that comes in spray cans....they are normally lacquer and are usually a hotter version of it.
 
i presume you mean cans not bombs :D

I never use spray cans no need really, and thanks for letting me know
 

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