Painting camo on tank before or after full assembly?

[fadugleman]

The instructions always show the camo being applied after all of the little parts that have been painted glued on. Doesn't make much sense to me.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I always assemble and then paint the main colors. Not sure how you would do it otherwise without making a ton of extra unnecessary work for yourself.

The only real difference I could see is if it is an open top vehicle, then you have to build, and paint the interior, then mask it off so you can paint the exterior, but it is still assembled and then painted.

 

[fadugleman]

I always assemble and then paint the main colors. Not sure how you would do it otherwise without making a ton of extra unnecessary work for yourself.

The only real difference I could see is if it is an open top vehicle, then you have to build, and paint the interior, then mask it off so you can paint the exterior, but it is still assembled and then painted.

Even like putting on all of the little accesories? Thanks btw

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

For me, it can vary from model to model.

When I painted my Tiger, I left the tow cables and cleaning rods off but all the pioneer tools were in place. In order to paint the wood handles, I slip a small piece of paper under them and that keeps the paint off the surface.

The more I can do in place, the less chance of ruining paint with glue etc.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

Yeah, I would have to agree with Ken on that, I put the most I can on the vehicle before painting.

If you don't have a steady hand, then maybe stuff like tools and such you leave off and paint separately.

However for me as much as I can goes on before hand.

 

[eightfooticeman]

Hey, does this theory apply to aircraft models as well? Meaning do you assemble the wings, landing gear, weapons pylons, etc before you paint?

 

[the Baron]

Hey, does this theory apply to aircraft models as well? Meaning do you assemble the wings, landing gear, weapons pylons, etc before you paint?

Generally, I put everything that gets the same color on, bearing in mind, too, that some things may tend to break when handled. I shoot for a balance. But for my aircraft, generally, fuselage, wings and stabilizers are assembled, then the colors go on. Landing gear doors get painted separately, as do other bits that get attached.

 

[Elm City Hobbies]

I build as much as I can before paint, doesn't matter if it is one solid color, or a multi-color camo.

Painting one big piece as opposed to many small pieces is always going to be easier, as well if you are doing a multi-color camo, you don't have to worry about your demarcation lines lining up.

 

[danimal518]

I'm in the middle of building my 2nd model (1st armor - US M113A2) and I'm painting it with my newly purchased airbrush. I did add attachments before painting, and I've noticed that there are spots on the model that are left unpainted. When I start to do the 2nd and 3rd color camo pattern, this will make it difficult to line them all up. Is there a secret to getting camo lines to line up in this situation, or did I just add too much detail too early?

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

I'd have to see what you mean to really understand, otherwise I'm just guessing at what you describe, so here goes.

If you are airbrushing the kit and spots are left unpainted, I can only imagine you are painting at high pressure from a long distance, leaving the area under added parts unpainted. (again, just guessing)

If this is the case, you need to turn down your pressure, (which may require thinning your paint more) and get closer to the model and spray under those items during the paint job.

Far too often I see modelers using an airbrush like a can of spray paint, far away from the surface and heavy clouds of paint... think of an airbrush as more of a precision instrument, designed to place fine amounts of paint in small areas, it may help you to get better coverage in the nooks and crannies and under details.

 

[danimal518]

I'd have to see what you mean to really understand, otherwise I'm just guessing at what you describe, so here goes.

If you are airbrushing the kit and spots are left unpainted, I can only imagine you are painting at high pressure from a long distance, leaving the area under added parts unpainted. (again, just guessing)

If this is the case, you need to turn down your pressure, (which may require thinning your paint more) and get closer to the model and spray under those items during the paint job.

Far too often I see modelers using an airbrush like a can of spray paint, far away from the surface and heavy clouds of paint... think of an airbrush as more of a precision instrument, designed to place fine amounts of paint in small areas, it may help you to get better coverage in the nooks and crannies and under details.

I was able to clean it up after a lot of maneuvering, so I don't have any pictures. However, to describe it some more. The unpainted area is like a shadow. The airbrush sprays and hits the model, but not where the "shadow" falls. I was painting with acrylic paint at a ratio of 50/50 and at about 20psi and about 2-4 inches away from the model.

I don't understand how turning the pressure down will help alleviate this problem, won't the "shadow" still fall on the model. I can obviously work around it, but not having the most delicate touch yet, I'm scared of having too much paint where it oversprays on either side. Does that make sense?

 

[danimal518]

I just tried to add a 2nd color to my armor, but the paint seemed to be too thin. I'm using a Badger Patriot Arrow, and maybe it's too much airbrush for a noob like me. I'm using Tamiya acrylics thinned with distilled water 50/50. The model just seemed to get wet, so when I pulled the trigger back some more, the paint just started to run over the model. I tried messing around with the psi; I went as low as 10 and up to about 20. Can anyone tell me what is happening and the best way to fix this?

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

I don't understand how turning the pressure down will help alleviate this problem, won't the "shadow" still fall on the model. I can obviously work around it, but not having the most delicate touch yet, I'm scared of having too much paint where it oversprays on either side. Does that make sense?

Turning the pressure down just allows you a bit more control, you can get closer and more precise without the paint flooding the surface or 'spidering' all over.

The shadow will continue to happen regardless of your pressure but it might allow you to position your airbrush from a different angle, perhaps one that takes you closer to this shadow area to cover it.

I just tried to add a 2nd color to my armor, but the paint seemed to be too thin. I'm using a Badger Patriot Arrow, and maybe it's too much airbrush for a noob like me. I'm using Tamiya acrylics thinned with distilled water 50/50. The model just seemed to get wet, so when I pulled the trigger back some more, the paint just started to run over the model. I tried messing around with the psi; I went as low as 10 and up to about 20. Can anyone tell me what is happening and the best way to fix this?

The airbrush is fine, 'noob' or not, just keep working with it.

I sometimes thin Tamiya paints with water but only for hairspray chipping, it behaves and reacts a lot better with the Tamiya lacquer thinner (yellow cap) and using this, I can thin it to like 80% thinner 20% paint and slowly layer the paint in the tightest of areas without problem.

It's really hard to nail down specifically what is happening without actually witnessing it, it could be a few different things. Paint running all over usually means there is too much being applied in one spot to quickly, often times (especially depending on the color) you may have to simply 'wet' the surface and let it dry a little before going back over it, allowing each thin layer to cure a little before applying more paint to the same area, it may take several passes to get the paint to start to cover but it wont build up to quickly and run on you. You can help speed it up by just depressing the trigger and blowing air from your brush on it to assist in drying it before adding more paint on that area.

 

[danimal518]

The airbrush is fine, 'noob' or not, just keep working with it.

I sometimes thin Tamiya paints with water but only for hairspray chipping, it behaves and reacts a lot better with the Tamiya lacquer thinner (yellow cap) and using this, I can thin it to like 80% thinner 20% paint and slowly layer the paint in the tightest of areas without problem.

It's really hard to nail down specifically what is happening without actually witnessing it, it could be a few different things. Paint running all over usually means there is too much being applied in one spot to quickly, often times (especially depending on the color) you may have to simply 'wet' the surface and let it dry a little before going back over it, allowing each thin layer to cure a little before applying more paint to the same area, it may take several passes to get the paint to start to cover but it wont build up to quickly and run on you. You can help speed it up by just depressing the trigger and blowing air from your brush on it to assist in drying it before adding more paint on that area.

Knowing that I wasn't going to have time to run to my LHS, but being anxious to keep working on my model, I looked up alternative thinners to the Tamiya lacquer thinner and discovered that a lot of people have had success with isopropyl alcohol. I bought some from CVS and tried using it tonight. Wouldn't you know it, that my painting is a helluva lot better. It's still not the best, but you know what they say "practice makes better".

I think that I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel with this model. The camo paint job was really stressing me out. Thanks for your help and recs!