Need help again

[TJBegin]

Ok, all you experts out there…..I’m in need of your expertise. (1) I am having a heck of a time with my plastic model paint drying. I‘m leaving fingerprints all over parts that have been painted. I tried rubber gloves thinking that would help….sometimes it does. Any advice on this one? (2) you educated me on - I think you call it - capillary action when you apply thin glue to parts. When I do that, it sticks the parts together all right, but then it runs onto other surfaces (including my fingers) and sticks them together. Can you give me advice on techniques to apply thin glue using capillary action? Thank you!

 

[urumomo]

" (1) I am having a heck of a time with my plastic model paint drying. "
You'll need to expand on that ,
What type of paint / primer , applied in what way , environmental conditions and how long are you leaving it to dry .

On the second issue , keep your fingers away from the joint and use less solvent cement .

 

[TJBegin]

" (1) I am having a heck of a time with my plastic model paint drying. "
You'll need to expand on that ,
What type of paint / primer , applied in what way , environmental conditions and how long are you leaving it to dry .

On the second issue , keep your fingers away from the joint and use less solvent cement .

Paint is usually Tester's spray paint. I do get impatient but usually let the parts set overnight before working with them. Not enough time.....?

 

[urumomo]

Acrylic or Alkyd ( enamel ) spray paint ?
How thick are you spraying and how long between coats .

What are the drying conditions , temp and humidity ?

 

[TJBegin]

Acrylic or Alkyd ( enamel ) spray paint ?
How thick are you spraying and how long between coats .

What are the drying conditions , temp and humidity ?

I usually apply one coat. OK, I known what you're going to say: I should apply more thinner coats, right.....? Temp/humidity - it's been high for both here for the past few days. Enamel spray.

 

[urumomo]

" but usually let the parts set overnight .."

Is the USUALLY part maybe the issue ?

Enamels are much more sensitive to thick coat curing --- can take friggin forever with too thick an application

 

[TJBegin]

" but usually let the parts set overnight .."

Is the USUALLY part maybe the issue ?

Enamels are much more sensitive to thick coat curing --- can take friggin forever with too thick an application

Several lighter coats, then.....?

 

[urumomo]

Indeed .
Always .

 

[TJBegin]

I actually knew you were going to say that but I guess i just needed you to say that. . Thank you.

 

[Laurie]

TJ. Thin glue capillary or wicking. This is for, for instance, attaching pieces of PE to plastic. Place the piece on the plastic & drag the thin glue around the edges.

I use a tattoo needle which has a long snout. I lightly load the whole snout & lay the snout level with the PE & pull along the joint.

On rounded parts good practice to tack at points makes it easier. Then complete.

Just thought are we talking plastic cement or c/a superglue ? I use thin C/A for the above.

For sticking plastic larger pieces I use Tamiya Extra thin cement or Mr Hobby MrCement S.

The S is very thin & I use for small pieces.. Tamiya for Fuselages etc.

For both cements you only need just enough to soften goohy the edges being attached.
Just run the brush in the cement tops along once of perhaps twice keeping to the joint.

Always keep a "model making" (they are harder than the babies type) cotton wool bud to quickly wipe excess before it begins to work on the plastic.

Plastic gloves. Better for me without as your fingers can feel

Laurie

 

[TJBegin]

TJ. Thin glue capillary or wicking. This is for, for instance, attaching pieces of PE to plastic. Place the piece on the plastic & drag the thin glue around the edges.

I use a tattoo needle which has a long snout. I lightly load the whole snout & lay the snout level with the PE & pull along the joint.

On rounded parts good practice to tack at points makes it easier. Then complete.

Just thought are we talking plastic cement or c/a superglue ? I use thin C/A for the above.

For sticking plastic larger pieces I use Tamiya Extra thin cement or Mr Hobby MrCement S.

The S is very thin & I use for small pieces.. Tamiya for Fuselages etc.

For both cements you only need just enough to soften goohy the edges being attached.
Just run the brush in the cement tops along once of perhaps twice keeping to the joint.

Always keep a "model making" (they are harder than the babies type) cotton wool bud to quickly wipe excess before it begins to work on the plastic.

Plastic gloves. Better for me without as your fingers can feel

Laurie

Great info! Thank you.

 

[Laurie]

TJ. Concentrated on the cement glue. I take it you are using cement & not CA ?

Paint. if enamel is causing problems why not experiment with Acrylics.
They are easy 24 hours & it is cured. Even before that period you can handel & give another coat.

I use Tamiya XF matt. But there is also Tamiya X which gives a superb gloss finish.
An even more glossy finish try over the Tamiya X Alclad 11 Laquer Aqua Gloss clear.

Laurie

 

[the Baron]

...I do get impatient...

Root cause!

Yeah, leave more time for paint or cement to cure or set.
Use less-instead of one coat of paint, which you might tend to apply heavily, apply several thin coats and build up color gradually
As for gluing, use less. It doesn't take a lot for the bond. As Laurie noted, you can tack pieces in specific spots to hold the pieces, then go back and apply a little more along the join.
But yes-patience, patience, patience.
I usually have a couple of projects going at once, too, so while I wait for something to dry, cure, set, on one project, I can turn to another and work on it, in the meantime. I paint figures, and I do the same thing with those, too-I'll have several going at once.
Hope that helps! And do show us what you're working on!
Best regards,
Brad