need a resin primer

[Just Mike]

I'll be getting a resin kit soon and I've had pretty terrible luck with resin kits. Hoping someone could help me out with the fundamentals of working with resin.

Thanks!

Primer as in being educated - not the pre-paint

 

[Quaralane]

All right, here are some basics:
First off, wash the parts thoroughly with a good cleanser to remove any release agent.
Superglues or epoxies are about the only adhesives to use with resin.
Watch for pinholes and air bubbles in the resin, especially in thinner parts.
Warped resin can be heated and bent back into shape.
Resin should be primered before painting.

That's the 10-second version, at least

 

[Splashcoat]

CLEANUP
Your model will look better if you spend some time cleaning up mold lines with a file or sand paper and filling the inevitable air bubbles. For larger holes, 5-minute epoxy works better than putty, curing in a few minutes and not shrinking as modeling putties do. After it sets up hard, the epoxy can be shaved or filed off level with the surrounding area. For shallower holes, cut the surface of the area to be filled with a hobby knife to give the putty or epoxy something to adhere to, as it does not stick well to shiny resin surfaces. When filing or sanding, wear some kind of dust mask to prevent the urethane dust from getting inside you. It's not good to eat or breathe.

GLUES
A two-part epoxy is recommended for assembling these models, but if you are in a hurry, super-glue can be used. The super-glue bond isn't as strong as an epoxy bond,but will generally work.

PRIMING
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU SCRUB ANY NEW RESIN MODEL WITH DISHWASHING DETERGENT (DAWN DISHWASHING DETERGENT IS GOOD!) AND A STIFF SCRUB BRUSH/TOOTHBRUSH. There are always some residual films left behind from the molding process that may inhibit the paint from adhering. When it comes to a choice of primers, use an enamel or lacquer based primer. It will cut through any residual mold release and bond to the resin. My personal favourite is Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" brand Sandable Gray Primer.
VERY IMPORTANT: Mist (spray very lightly) a light primer coat and let it dry completely (at least half an hour) before spraying heavier primer coats.

REPAIRS
The polyurethane resin that the models are made of is very tough, but when it does break, it usually does not shatter, but breaks cleanly. If a piece should break, repair the break with a very small amount of thin cyanoacrylate super glue. After the glue dries, simply retouch the paint in the affected area.

WARPAGE
Beware of leaving your models in the car on a hot day! These models are plastic after all, and will soften in a car sitting around in the hot sun, just like normal plastic models will. To rebend a warped piece heat, the area to be bent with a hair dryer, gently bend back into place and set the resin by putting it under cold tap water.

 

[Just Mike]

Exactly what I was looking for!

 

[Biskup]

As for primer I'm had very good experience with Mr. Resin Primer and I can honestly recommend it.
Cheers

 

[Just Mike]

prim·er
1    [prim-er or, especially Brit., prahy-mer]
–noun
1. an elementary book for teaching children to read.
2. any book of elementary principles: a primer of phonetics.
3. great primer.
4. long primer.

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

Mike, considering we are on a modeling site, I think that was an honest mistake and frankly before reading through the thread I would have responded in the same way. Perhaps it would be a better idea to respond by saying "thanks for your help but I mean this definition of the word Primer, not that..." and not just posting the definition?

Otherwise we could find ourselves mired in a thread arguing about all of the various definitions of the word, no?



prim·er 2 (prmr)
n.
1. A cap or tube containing a small amount of explosive used to detonate the main explosive charge of a firearm or mine.
2. An undercoat of paint or size applied to prepare a surface, as for painting.
3. Genetics A segment of DNA or RNA that is complementary to a given DNA sequence and that is needed to initiate replication by DNA polymerase.

 

[schweinhund227]

I'm for all of the above!

LOL

Really!

 

[Just Mike]

Mike, considering we are on a modeling site, I think that was an honest mistake and frankly before reading through the thread I would have responded in the same way. Perhaps it would be a better idea to respond by saying "thanks for your help but I mean this definition of the word Primer, not that..." and not just posting the definition?

Otherwise we could find ourselves mired in a thread arguing about all of the various definitions of the word, no?



prim·er 2 (prmr)
n.

1. A cap or tube containing a small amount of explosive used to detonate the main explosive charge of a firearm or mine.
2. An undercoat of paint or size applied to prepare a surface, as for painting.
3. Genetics A segment of DNA or RNA that is complementary to a given DNA sequence and that is needed to initiate replication by DNA polymerase.

Sorry. Didn't mean to sound like that. Did come across as a tad dickish, huh?

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

Sorry. Didn't mean to sound like that. Did come across as a tad dickish, huh?

A tad, yes.

But you've acknowledged it and apologized, so you've made good in my mind.

Thank you.

8)

 

[Splashcoat]

Nicely done, Gentlemen. It's a pleasure to take part in a forum that stays civil and doesn't descend into name-calling and other foolishness over a misunderstanding or difference of opinion. Cheers.

 

[Biskup]

Sorry Mike my bad. Miss read and miss understood you.
As for you question I see that Splashcoat and Quaralane covered the topic.
I could only add that if it's possible add some pins out of rod or tube on the assembly areas it will strengthen the entire structure.
I didn't do that on my 3rd entry to the contest and hade hair of the figure braking of so many times I lost the count.

Regards
Lukasz

 

[Grendels]

I agree with Lukasz, for anything that feels slightly fragile, I would add a pin or two to strengthen it up.

 

[punkpigpen]

95% of all my builds are resin kits, studio scale Star Wars kits actually. and on them i only use Plastikote rattle can primer. its sandable if you need to and it works great w acrylics afterwards. Skip ahead to the end. i finish it ONLY with Testors Dullcote in a bottle mixed 50/50 with a laquer thinner through an airbrush. it is the ONLY clear that comes out super matte. Acrylic matte coats of all kind leave a slight satin sheen to them. BLAH to that!!!

 

[Just Mike]

I was really just talking about being educated on resin and how to work with it.

Plastikote - haven't been able to find it since Michael's stopped carrying it.

 

[ShutterAce]

I was really just talking about being educated on resin and how to work with it.

Plastikote - haven't been able to find it since Michael's stopped carrying it.

Try NAPA

 

[Just Mike]

excellent! Thanks!

 

[punkpigpen]

just find it online and order enough to last awhile. i use it on styrene too.

 

[Splashcoat]

If you can't find Plasticote try Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" Grey Primer in a rattle can. It's sandable, provides a very fine spray pattern, doesn't react with acrylic overcoats and as an added bonus, is very easy to find in most home improvement/hardware stores.

 

[Grendels]

If you can't find Plasticote try Rustoleum "Painter's Touch" Grey Primer in a rattle can. It's sandable, provides a very fine spray pattern, doesn't react with acrylic overcoats and as an added bonus, is very easy to find in most home improvement/hardware stores.

I have used this product and I like it! Works very well and I had no problems with weird reactions.