BEST GLUE TO FILL AND SAND A SEAM?

[alerae]

im connecting the two sides of a revell fullsalage and theres a 1mm gap i have to glue and sand. i was wondering if i should use revell glue and just load it up and sand it, or should i use thin glue that welds the plastic together?

 

[fumblethumbs]

To fill a 1mm gap, I would suggest you use some filler. The type of glue used to join the plastic really has no gap filling capabilities. I know some Guys use super glue, aka CA and cover it with baking soda. There is also a super glue designed for gap filling. I think it is just thicker viscosity. However, a small tube of squadron green putty and a small container of acetone from the dollar store would be very economical. The acetone is used to slightly thin and smooth the putty. I've had pretty good results with this combination. To get the best result, let the filled joint cure overnight before sanding. You may need more than one application, depending on how fussy you want to be with it. Hope this helps.

 

[ShutterAce]

DO NOT use a solvent type glue. You'll be sorry if you do.

There are lots of ways to fill a small gap like that. Putty, CA, thick paint, stretched sprue, even white out. Over time you'll figure out what works best for you but you may want to start with putty like fumblethumbs suggested. It's easy to use and forgiving.

 

[alerae]

so would using the red tube revell glue work ? or should i ask a guy at a local hobby shop near my house what he thinks is best?

 

[ShutterAce]

I'm not sure what Rvell Red Tube Glue is. Does it say Testors on the tube by chance? Revell does sell Testors products in there own packaging. If that is what it is then it is solvent based. That means it melts the plastic together which is a good thing when you want to do that. The problem is a massive amount of it like used to fill a gap can and will cause the plastic to distort over time leaving you with an interesting looking seam.

 

[JMac]

I would not use the red(or orange) tube of testors/revell glue. Use a filler or CA like fumblethumbs and ShutterAce advised. I use this as a filler;
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ9050

some other good references;

http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/putty.htm
and
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Toolbox.html

The best thing is to read and take the advise of others but experiment on a model (or scraps of plastic) that you don't really care about.

 

[alerae]

i think what ill do is use normal glue for the 90% thats normall and on the end ill use puddy . sound good?

 

[fumblethumbs]

Yep alerae, sounds good. That is the procedure that will give you good results.

 

[13aceofspades13]

I would not use the red(or orange) tube of testors/revell glue. Use a filler or CA like fumblethumbs and ShutterAce advised. I use this as a filler;
http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=SQ9050

some other good references;

http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/putty.htm
and
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Toolbox.html

The best thing is to read and take the advise of others but experiment on a model (or scraps of plastic) that you don't really care about.

testors works just fine for me as a adhesive... but not as a filler, i have seen people use a lot of Aves as a filler lately... lots of people are dropping there squadron putty and Auto bondo for it, beacuse it is easy to work with and highly efficient.

 

[Quaralane]

These days, I'm only using Aves Apoxie-Sculpt for most of my seam-filling.

 

[the Baron]

I would use stretched sprue in this case, using the kit sprue. I do use Testor's tube glue, but for this kind of application, I use liquid glue. My own choice for liquid glue is Plastruct's brand.

I prefer to use stretched sprue for this kind of a gap, because it's the same material as the rest of the kits, so it'll behave the same as the rest of the surrounding plastic, as you continue through the build.

Just my Senf, as they say

 

[noc5659]

i have been using zap a gap super glue for years. its is tedious at times but for me it seems stronger than putty. some of the guys here are using aves to great success. i am going to try this for the larger seams etc. but for smaller ones i prefer ca glue.

 

[ModelMakerMike]

i have been using zap a gap super glue for years. its is tedious at times but for me it seems stronger than putty. some of the guys here are using aves to great success. i am going to try this for the larger seams etc. but for smaller ones i prefer ca glue.

I have used that same method on quite a few models as well. But over the last couple years, I have been using Tamiya Putty, and I like it! Just have to makes sure it's nice and dry before ya go sanding on it!

 

[punkpigpen]

use putty. just do it right. and DO NOT use the red testors to fill cuz it will chew away plastic if applied heavy.

 

[schweinhund227]

Did I mention ! Testor Red & White tube glue is only good for making Icicles in winter diorama ! or Angel Hairs all over your models... (filaments) showing which part you glued next !!! LOL

Can't believe they still sell that stuff....!!!

There are so many New products out there.... AveS "appoxie putty" ! Valejo putty, Tamiya putty, Green and White putty from squadron... and so much more....

of course.. the C.A. and Their zappers... (instant cure)

Glad you ask !!! so many have ruined their kits... with that Solvent Goop !

anyway.... lots of peoples have answered you !!! and they all have great experience !!!

just stay away from that Testor Tube s...!


Norm.

 

[the Baron]

i have been using zap a gap super glue for years. its is tedious at times but for me it seems stronger than putty. some of the guys here are using aves to great success. i am going to try this for the larger seams etc. but for smaller ones i prefer ca glue.

Do you find that the cured CA glue is harder than the surrounding plastic, so you have to be careful when sanding, because the plastic will wear away before the glue does? I don't use CA myself for gaps, but I've read that that can be an issue.

 

[ScaleModelMadman]

I never use CA glues or putty to fill seams anymore.

How many times have you read a thread, or seen a video where someone has had the seam open up after handling the model, (or like just mentioned), the difference in surface type between the glue and the plastic always tends to leave a sanding line.

Nothing bonds to plastic like that very same plastic does, why not use that? I'm pretty sure I've posted these here before but I will do it again, in case someone finds it useful.

Give it a try sometime, you will never have this seam open up on you. Of course these photos aren't 100% complete but they should give you the idea..

 

[ModelMakerMike]

Nothing bonds to plastic like that very same plastic does, why not use that? I'm pretty sure I've posted these here before but I will do it again, in case someone finds it useful.

Give it a try sometime, you will never have this seam open up on you. Of course these photos aren't 100% complete but they should give you the idea..

Wow! That is simple and logical. It makes so much sense, I am ashamed I hadn't thought of it!
;D

 

[schweinhund227]

I have nothing against this technique! However! I has a place in our modelers Arsenal!

And like many others..... You can't always use it!

It is very logical to use common mediums.... But be careful on what surface you use it!

I have just used it on my TSR2 project! It help reduce the amount of Tamiya putty I actually used on some of my biggest seams! The lesser the putty the better! Right!

Just make sure the "Styrene glue" won't melt away prestine details in the process!

It's a great advantage to have a multitude of methods...... Just use the right one at the right time!

Later guys!