AMT ERTL Millennium Falcon Build

BLT

Active Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
175
Not much.
Had to sadly let work get in the way

I'll get some photos of some ideas I have for the engine light and get them up today if I can sneak away from work.
You'd think working from home I'd have set my office desk up next to my model desk so I could work on models while on Zoom meetings, but nope, didn't think of that did I.

:rolleyes:
Funny you should say that...
IMG_20210824_171700.jpg

But no rush man.

Seeing you start this thing a while back made me go back to mine... I spend like 2 weeks measuring the ERTL one against the plans from RPF, I don't remember the guys name. I sanded and cut and got ready to make the basic shape from FDM, only to realize that the mandibles are really way off... So I decided to scratch them, but where to get all the blastic, or any other material for that matter... I did find some, tho I never got around to buying it. First work hit me full on... Then life in general and finally the realization that this would cost quite a bit and I hadn't even started to research all the greebles, some I figured I'd source, some I'd scratch...

But it's a can of worms... Ones you open it... It's out and it never stops.

Anyway... I put it aside and went back to my m41.

But I can tell you this. It's not a secret, but a lot of people still think it's so. The cockpit tube is not too small, just too long. And I still think reducing the side walls to 12 mm will make the biggest impact.

Anyway, I now have an excel sheet with the calculations on what the measurements of the ERTL model should be, if it was to have the same proportions as the ANH 5 footer.

I think the worst realisation was that it might actually be easier to just build it from scratch.

So... Take your time, and put it away when it just gets too annoying, but keep at it, for all our sakes.

Thank you
 

andrewdick68

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
52
Funny you should say that...
View attachment 87220

But no rush man.

Seeing you start this thing a while back made me go back to mine... I spend like 2 weeks measuring the ERTL one against the plans from RPF, I don't remember the guys name. I sanded and cut and got ready to make the basic shape from FDM, only to realize that the mandibles are really way off... So I decided to scratch them, but where to get all the blastic, or any other material for that matter... I did find some, tho I never got around to buying it. First work hit me full on... Then life in general and finally the realization that this would cost quite a bit and I hadn't even started to research all the greebles, some I figured I'd source, some I'd scratch...

But it's a can of worms... Ones you open it... It's out and it never stops.

Anyway... I put it aside and went back to my m41.

But I can tell you this. It's not a secret, but a lot of people still think it's so. The cockpit tube is not too small, just too long. And I still think reducing the side walls to 12 mm will make the biggest impact.

Anyway, I now have an excel sheet with the calculations on what the measurements of the ERTL model should be, if it was to have the same proportions as the ANH 5 footer.

I think the worst realisation was that it might actually be easier to just build it from scratch.

So... Take your time, and put it away when it just gets too annoying, but keep at it, for all our sakes.

Thank you
Yep, you've got the office and model area dialed in ;)
 

andrewdick68

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
52
Engine Lighting Update.
I'm looking at different ways to do my engine lighting using the floor to ceiling clear plastic parts provided in teh kit.
I have so far a couple of options all using internal illumination.
1. Paint the clear with transparent blue on the inside, and use a grey stick on vinyl piece with holes cut in it and stick that on the outside, and illuminate from inside.
2. Use a piece of semi translucent plastic that came is some furniture from Ikea as packing and illuminate it with blue LEDs. Not sure If i will replace the clear parts. Still have to use the grey vinyl stick on mask.
As for the blue lighting I have string LED's (I got 15 of them on Amazon for $9), or USB LED strip lighting (from Marshals $7)
The string lights would need to be wrapped on a scratch built amature and mounted inside.
Still working out how to mount the LED strip.
Issue with the strip lights are the distance between the LEDs and the inability to wrap them like the string ones.
Various photos below.

Anyone else conquered the Engine lighting issues?
 

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  • Engine mask cutouts.jpg
    Engine mask cutouts.jpg
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  • String LEDs on armature.jpg
    String LEDs on armature.jpg
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  • String LEDs on armatureStrip Vs String LEDs.jpg
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  • Translucent Plastic with String LED.jpg
    Translucent Plastic with String LED.jpg
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  • Translucent Plastic with Strip LED.jpg
    Translucent Plastic with Strip LED.jpg
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  • Transperant blue of grey mask.jpg
    Transperant blue of grey mask.jpg
    317.7 KB · Views: 3

BLT

Active Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Messages
175
Engine Lighting Update.
I'm looking at different ways to do my engine lighting using the floor to ceiling clear plastic parts provided in teh kit.
I have so far a couple of options all using internal illumination.
1. Paint the clear with transparent blue on the inside, and use a grey stick on vinyl piece with holes cut in it and stick that on the outside, and illuminate from inside.
2. Use a piece of semi translucent plastic that came is some furniture from Ikea as packing and illuminate it with blue LEDs. Not sure If i will replace the clear parts. Still have to use the grey vinyl stick on mask.
As for the blue lighting I have string LED's (I got 15 of them on Amazon for $9), or USB LED strip lighting (from Marshals $7)
The string lights would need to be wrapped on a scratch built amature and mounted inside.
Still working out how to mount the LED strip.
Issue with the strip lights are the distance between the LEDs and the inability to wrap them like the string ones.
Various photos below.

Anyone else conquered the Engine lighting issues?
Maybe try having a look over at RPF. I know for sure some of those guys tackled this thing... Tho I feel I have to warn you... Some of those builds are crazy.
 

trekriffic

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
697
Regarding your engine lighting I assume you are trying to do something like what I did for the nacelles on my Enterprise E ?

50305516998_b79dfac34a_z.jpg
USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Diffusers with Foam Packing Sheet Test 2 by Steve J, on Flickr

The key for me was having the LED strip spaced about a half inch away from the translucent milk jug plastic:

50306204496_8a0537fb86_z.jpg
USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Light Check by Steve J, on Flickr

Another trick was adding a layer of foam packing sheet between the translucent panel and the LED’s to further diffuse the light. I folded the sheet over on itself so was three layers thick:

50306353972_a66fd078ae_z.jpg USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Foam Packing Sheet by Steve J, on Flickr

The final effect prior to adding the clear plastic nacelle cover. No hot spots:

49898167466_f50ac74b43_b.jpg USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Nacelle Lit by Steve J, on Flickr

if this is not your goal please disregard this post.
 
Last edited:

andrewdick68

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2021
Messages
52
Regarding your engine lighting I assume you are trying to do something like what I did for the nacelles on my Enterprise E ?

View attachment 87288
USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Diffusers with Foam Packing Sheet Test 2 by Steve J, on Flickr

The key for me was having the LED strip spaced about a half inch away from the translucent milk jug plastic:

View attachment 87289
USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Nacelle Light Check by Steve J, on Flickr

Another trick was adding a layer of foam packing sheet between the translucent panel and the LED’s to further diffuse the light. I folded the sheet over on itself so was three layers thick:

View attachment 87290 USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP- Foam Packing Sheet by Steve J, on Flickr

The final effect prior to adding the clear plastic bussard cover. No hot spots:

View attachment 87291 USS Enterprise E - Nemesis-WIP-Nacelle Lit by Steve J, on Flickr

if this is not your goal please disregard this post.
That is awesome, Thanks so much for that advice.
I was thinking that it would need about 1/4" between the plastic and the lights, but the foam strip is a great addition.

Really appreciate it...
 

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