1/48 Ta-152H1 (Zoukei-Mura)

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Now that whoever read that is Thoroughly screwed up on types of paint.. what was someone building on this thread?😆
Yes, and the panel-lining part of it.

I'm happy to say the AK lacquer stood up VERY well to damp or wet Q-tips. The AK Extreme metal was okay, but have to be VERY careful with the rubbing, I might need some touchups later.

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I used my homemade wash, some black and a lot of brown (Testors Model Masters) mixed with about 90% turpentine.

1780345586240.png
 
Yes, and the panel-lining part of it.

I'm happy to say the AK lacquer stood up VERY well to damp or wet Q-tips. The AK Extreme metal was okay, but have to be VERY careful with the rubbing, I might need some touchups later.

View attachment 191161View attachment 191162

I used my homemade wash, some black and a lot of brown (Testors Model Masters) mixed with about 90% turpentine.

View attachment 191163
Looks nice! How does turpentine compare to mineral spirits?
 
Looks nice! How does turpentine compare to mineral spirits?
You're asking the wrong guy, I'm chemistry-class challenged.

I think they're the same thing, just a marketing ploy, but what I used says "mineral spirits" on the label. If I were to guess, turpentine is more industrial, maybe hotter.
 
Yes, and the panel-lining part of it.

I'm happy to say the AK lacquer stood up VERY well to damp or wet Q-tips. The AK Extreme metal was okay, but have to be VERY careful with the rubbing, I might need some touchups later.

Wow, you're setting the bar really high on this one!
 
His question was, I think, does he need to apply an acrylic clear coat over the laquer based acrylic real colors and/ or true laquer (I think) extreme metal colors, good question. I assume he wants to use enamel weathering products.
 
apply an acrylic clear coat over the laquer based acrylic real colors and/ or true laquer (I think) extreme metal colors
Yes, minus the detail/nuance.

Results were surprising and contradict my poor understanding of what you typed.

The AK lacquer (picture posted above) seemed bulletproof to a turpentine/enamel/mineral-spirit wash.

The AK Extreme metal (below) did okay as in was not dissolving, but with rubbing of the Q-tip it was evident that is would be eroded away.

1780598798236.png
 
I've had this on the back burner for a while, working on my courage to do the One Man Army masks. What did it take to make be brave? Fear of the rigging on my S.E.5a of course!
1785503972852.webp

You can see in the above photo that I addressed the too-clean and too-uniform mottling.
1785504024877.webp

The Balkenkreuz on the upper wings were cake, single color and easy to align. Since I was spraying white, I did the trim tabs on the elevators too.
1785504100247.webp

Bleed is not a problem if you spray very thin coats, and I used alcohol to thin it for maximum speed on drying. That lip was the hardest part, and you can see there's a little of a fuzzy edge because of it, but this is a zoomed-in image.
1785504212361.webp


Those little black spots are the fuel door/type indicators. Most of them got the "87" mark, according to Zoukei two of them should have an MW50 for the methanol-water tanks. But my masks did not have that so I improvised and used the B4 there. This was a pretty difficult thing to do. Small white triangles were simple. Then a TINY little triangle inside of it to keep white and spray the yellow into the center. Then a black mask with just the numbers.

This is what it is supposed to look like...
1785504534265.webp


I need to take some pictures, some of them looked good, some are a bit off. If I cannot fix it I might remove them and use the all black versions seen in the above picture. They might be more "correct" for the last few weeks of the war anyway.
 
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I've had this on the back burner for a while, working on my courage to do the One Man Army masks. What did it take to make be brave? Fear of the rigging on my S.E.5a of course!
View attachment 198220
You can see in the above photo that I addressed to too-clean and too-uniform mottling.
View attachment 198221
The Balkenkreuz on the upper wings were cake, single color and easy to align. Since I was spraying white, I did the trim tabs on the elevators too.
View attachment 198222
Bleed is not a problem if you spray very thin coats, and I used alcohol to thin it for maximum speed on drying. That lip was the hardest part, and you can see there's a little of a fuzzy edge because of it, but this is a zoomed-in image.
View attachment 198223

Thos little black spots are the fuel door/type indicators. Most of them got the "87" mark, according to Zoukei two of them should have an MW50 for the methanol-water tanks. But my masks did not have that so I improvised and used the B4 there. This was a pretty difficult thing to do. Small white triangles were simple. Then a TINY little triangle inside of it to keep white and spray the yellow into the center. Then a black mask with just the numbers.

This is what it is supposed to look like...
View attachment 198224

I need to take some pictures, some of them looked good, some are a bit off. If I cannot fix it I might remove them and use the all black versions seen in the above picture. They might be more "correct" for the last few weeks of the war anyway.
Looks good!
 
Here's what I mean about the fuel-labels.

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From a distance they're not terrible, but I'm not okay with what I have. Just need to decide best way to fix it, if they have to be tri-colored emblems maybe I'll use stickers, or just try all black first. Lots of stencils to do that are all black.
 
One more shot of the trim-tabs.

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And I find this stupidity to be small minded and childish. 80+ years ago, too soon to move on?

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