F-16 "Aggressor"
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urumomo
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You maybe sprayed the color coats on too dry ? , trying to keep the layers thin .
That will affect adhesion . The min spirits won't dissolve the acrylic but flooding the surface like that with it can delaminate the paint if it wasn't wet enough to develop a bond to the primer or other color coats .
I assume the AK white spirits is refined to " artist grade " with the removal of all the other solvents .
I'm sure it's probably priced like it is , lulz
That will affect adhesion . The min spirits won't dissolve the acrylic but flooding the surface like that with it can delaminate the paint if it wasn't wet enough to develop a bond to the primer or other color coats .
I assume the AK white spirits is refined to " artist grade " with the removal of all the other solvents .
I'm sure it's probably priced like it is , lulz
Edbert
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The use of Tamiya Acrylics (almost all "XF") is definitely new to me. I got used to heavy thinner during the 1990s-enamel era. I am 100% applying it thin, to let the pre-shade through.
Does that mean my mistake is expecting a polyurethane scale varnish? I see videos of people flowing high levels of oil-based thinner, I should have added I'm using artist-oil paints, as in meant for canvas.
Here's the product....
You can see it was even worse paint-erosion on the jamming-pod, but the sidewinder has a bulletproof enamel metallic black.
Does that mean my mistake is expecting a polyurethane scale varnish? I see videos of people flowing high levels of oil-based thinner, I should have added I'm using artist-oil paints, as in meant for canvas.
Here's the product....
You can see it was even worse paint-erosion on the jamming-pod, but the sidewinder has a bulletproof enamel metallic black.
BlackSheepTwoOneFour
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I'm confused… why are you using washes to weather the heck out of the finish of an Aggressor Viper for a faded look? It looked great prior to your weathering and washes.
Sidewinder tips are black, never metallic black.
Sidewinder tips are black, never metallic black.
Edbert
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The effect is much more than what I was going for, usually do not apply heavy weathering to aircraft other than Pacific War. But I had to stop wiping it off because it was stripping the paint. Can you recommend a stronger clear coat that would not get rubbed off? I thought an acrylic clear was immune to oils.
As far as the sidewinder, this is the first I've touched in about 40 years. The Tamiya instructions indicate the front portion is made up of four colors...
- White
- Chrome
- Dark Silver
- Gunmetal Black
Edbert
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My last two aircraft are jets, this is a bit of a break for me, I'm usually a WWII type. I'm trying to get out of that rut and try "new" subjects, yet the F-16 came out in the early 70s, and my Mig-21 came out in 1961 so the term new is subjective.
While I am pushing myself to build jets, I'm lying to myself in a way, seems that I cannot help but apply the heavy camo paintjobs like WWII warbirds were known for. My Phantom kit is due any day now, I'll stick to the boring grays and solid colors this time!
At least this scheme has some color! I prefer the dual-green with brown camo like Gary is building (see above, have to stop painting traditional camo!) and I wanted a shelf-mate to go with the 1968 Mig. All the F4 folks say that means F-4B, and I could not find any aftermarket decal sets for the later camo. Again, I need to stop painting camo and have not built a USN plane in more than 2 decades. The USMC F-4U does not count.
While I am pushing myself to build jets, I'm lying to myself in a way, seems that I cannot help but apply the heavy camo paintjobs like WWII warbirds were known for. My Phantom kit is due any day now, I'll stick to the boring grays and solid colors this time!
At least this scheme has some color! I prefer the dual-green with brown camo like Gary is building (see above, have to stop painting traditional camo!) and I wanted a shelf-mate to go with the 1968 Mig. All the F4 folks say that means F-4B, and I could not find any aftermarket decal sets for the later camo. Again, I need to stop painting camo and have not built a USN plane in more than 2 decades. The USMC F-4U does not count.
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Edbert
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Do you think a lacquer clear would survive a turpentine wash?
I'm assuming I was too thin with the clearcoats, or I thinned it too much. I'm trying to wean myself from the need to use too much thinner, but the XF series of acrylics are so thick they feel like pudding! I did have nozzle drying issues without enough thinner.
On my Mig I laid down a series of coats that in total were more than 2x as thick, maybe 3x. It may be weeks but we'll see if that solves the issue.
But I have an (old) bottle of Testors Gloss Lacquer that I think might be unused, will it survive?
urumomo
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Turpentine is more aggressive than mineral spirits . I use it to clean spray can nozzles after use for that reason .
Cured lacquers will survive mineral spirits no problem .
A lot of " lacquers " are actually acrylic resins and not nitrocellulose , but both are safe with mineral spirits .
Cured lacquers will survive mineral spirits no problem .
A lot of " lacquers " are actually acrylic resins and not nitrocellulose , but both are safe with mineral spirits .
Edbert
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This was done almost exactly a year ago, it was shortly after "returning" to the hobby and I was trying to use modern techniques (like enamel/oil washes) of the type I had never tried before. The learning curve bit me, and it took several more failures to figure out what I was doing wrong. Bottom line, my clear coats were not applied thick enough. I'm a chronic case of spraying thin coats of thinned paint, I stand by that approach for color coats and post-shading effects. I was concerned with filling in surface detail with clear acrylic, so I ruined a few paint jobs. I did stop using those AK clears, never had good results with them, but I accept the blame, it is not the brand or the product at fault. Since then I am using Tamiya X-22 for my gloss clears, put the stickers and washes on that using mild solvents then clear matte with good old Testors.
I was going to use this kit as a mule, but could never bring myself to. I had put a detail set in the cockpit and didn't want to waste that. So I used some recommended purple-bottle cleaner to strip the paint. That did not work as well as I hoped so I broke out the easy-off oven cleaner.
Then I purchased a new set of stickers, I do intend to at least tray and resurrect this kit, someday.
I admit I'm a bit scared of the splinter version of the white-gray-black paint.
Wig41
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I feel the same way as you when it comes to the clear coats. I don't want so much that it fills the seams and panel lines to the point that washes are useless. When I read of another build and they do a clear coat after each weathering technique it amazes me that the panel lines aren't filled completely. Yet somehow there builds are magnificent. Oh well … try and try again.
Wig41
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Wow, you got that down to the plastic? Using easy off ?! I have an F-4 that has been soaking in a mix of simple green concentrate and 91% alcohol for a week trying to remove paint and decals to repaint it but very little has happened yet this is a mix that was a recommendation from fellow modelers. I guess I should try your method cause you have amazing results. And I would agree with you that it should sit idle for a good long time.
Edbert
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Yes.
I tried using "Super Clean" in the purple bottle. It did work, a little, as in slowly.
But there were places where I was scrubbing a lot with a soft toothbrush and there were spots that were pretty stubborn. My issue might be that there was a base layer of Mr. Surfacer (lacquer right?), with acrylic color and clear, then some enamel and some oil and some turpentine and some decals. Had it all been Taniya XF then 99% isopropyl might have been enough.
Easy Off removed it far quicker, but that stuff just smells toxic. I used a respirator and gloves and was worried they might dissolve. It does wash off with water, which is (I guess) how it is considered safe to eat off a grill after using it.
Wig41
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Thanks for filling me in on the Easy off. I'll try that next.
Ooh,I like that white gray black Splinter version. That does look difficult. I might try that on mine
Excellent pictures. That is awesome. I'm going to paint mine exactly like one of those. I think I'm going to go with the top picture. I wonder what the bottom looks like? I think looking at the top picture it wraps around.
